Medusa Head
Aquarium Advice Activist
It's too bad you went with majority rule and got a Vortex. You could have eliminated a TON of extra work and fuss by going with a System 1. I threw my PITA Vortex away long ago and never looked back.
Diatom Filter arrived with RESULTS!!! (pics included)
- Thread starter 7Enigma
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7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
If I wanted to spend over $130 then yes I could have. But in the OP I mentioned I wanted to stay preferably between $60-70.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Medusa Head said:
What makes a System 1 better? I got the Vortex XL and it's not a PITA to run. I'm finding it that once I got it set up (assembled), that the priming and charging was a very quick and easy process, and it works absolutesly great. And I'm glad I got it and would probably get another if I needed it. Also, the question was which ones were recommended that would be in the 60.00-70.00 range, like mentioned above.
OP
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7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well from my reading it looks like the system 1 acts as a HOB design which is nice instead of having to deal with all the tubing, but the Vortex then has the advantage of being able to place the intake and output lines exactly where you want them (ie near the surface, or near the gravel if you stir up junk). While I would love to have the ease of a HOB design, I would want to trade the customness of the vortex. And obviously it was WELL out of my price range.
So its been a couple of days and my tank still looks very clear. Which lends me to believe that even if your ferts are reset to proper levels the GW will NOT just die on its own, it might just stop growing but stay close to the same in numbers. That's why a blackout is normally recommended. Seems like if you have a diatom filter you don't have to blackout the tank, and you get all the benefits of the blackout.
So its been a couple of days and my tank still looks very clear. Which lends me to believe that even if your ferts are reset to proper levels the GW will NOT just die on its own, it might just stop growing but stay close to the same in numbers. That's why a blackout is normally recommended. Seems like if you have a diatom filter you don't have to blackout the tank, and you get all the benefits of the blackout.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
7Enigma said:
I would have to completely agree...
Kilgore said:I have this same filter (got it from Petsmart with free shipping - $67.00), and I love it. It was a pain to put together but once I really put my mind to it, it wasn't that complicated... the instructions made it sound more difficult than it really is.
Warning #1: many diatom powder mixes designed for pools contain chlorine. I personally don't think it is worth the risk.
Warning #2: It's a good idea to check your seal by getting the filter running at the sink. I made the mistake of closing the lid with part of the filter bag sticking out, and boy, did I have a mess on my carpet. Water was squirting out from the lid in every direction - like a garden house with someone holding their finger on the end! Not to mention the trail of water back to the sink as I ran with it! As long as you poke all the fabric in and line up the gasket, you should be fine.
I use dicalite swimming pool diatom powder as you can see have way down the page in this link that its swimpool grade is used for aquariums.
http://www.grefco.com/Diatom_filter_aid.htm
OP
OP
7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
Wanted to update after my second go at the diatom:
Yesterday I used about 1 1/2 cups of pool diatom powder. This definately was not quite as uniform in size (some sand size pieces), and I think for my filter I would be better off using closer to 1 cup (seemed like there was some that wouldn't stick to the filter no matter what I tried). I also used a MUCH better method to get this started without making mistakes.
I used my 5gallon bucket that I normally use for water changes and filled it with about 3-4gallons of tap water. Then I added the powder to the 5 gallon bucket and coated the filter. Then I used a tall glass and filled it with the water from the bucket and put the 2 lines in. Then I took the glass out of the bucket, added a 1/2 capful of Prime to the small glass (to prevent possible chlorine as mentioned above), and put the glass into the tank. Voila! No mess, no risk of dumping the powder into the tank, and much less room for error.
Next I went about placing the intake on the far side of the tank (left), and took off the diffuser of the output. This caused the even slow flow to be like a garden hose, and I CAREFULLY aimed around the right side of the tank, kicking up all sorts of fish waste/plant debris. Then I switched sides, put the intake output near each other, ect, until my hands were wrinkled! My filter was FILLED with gunk from the tank, and this might explain my high phosphates and general mild/moderate algae problems. I'm sure my cory and other fish also enjoy a cleaner bottom when scavenging for leftovers.
I'm still under high temp treating the possible Ich (its been at least a week and a half). I only ever saw a single white dot on the tail fin of one of the barbs, but with the recent hot weather and no AC (will be installed shortly) it seemed like the perfect time to treat for possible Ich.
I lost 1 Oto recently, but do not attribute it to Ich (his belly was HUGE a week or 2 prior to his death and he either had an internal parasite or overate himself to death). Hopefully the other fish will not get sick (no similar symptoms and they all seem healthy).
So here's another post praising the diatom filter. Anyone with a heavily planted tank should seriously think about getting one of these (so much gunk would get trapped in and around the roots and rot), and I think if you can afford one, a newly setup tank will also REALLY benefit from one.
I forgot to mention that prior to starting the diatom I trimmed all the plants back heavily, scraped the green spot algae off of the glass sides with a razor blade, and using a toothbrush scrubbed the diatoms off the ceramic pots, and gently scrubbed the anubias leaves to get rid of the wide variety of gunk built up on them (green spot algae, small amount of diatoms, hair algae, etc). All this maintainence made the tank very cloudy, and without the diatom filter would have mostly settled back down to the substrate. With the diatom, the majority of these pests were removed from the tank. I did a 30% PWC right before the filter btw for fertilizer/plant reasons (and to get some of the gunk out straight away).
I apologize for the long post, and for not getting a picture of the filter before I cleaned it, but suffice to say, the tank and its inhabitants are MUCH happier.
justin
Yesterday I used about 1 1/2 cups of pool diatom powder. This definately was not quite as uniform in size (some sand size pieces), and I think for my filter I would be better off using closer to 1 cup (seemed like there was some that wouldn't stick to the filter no matter what I tried). I also used a MUCH better method to get this started without making mistakes.
I used my 5gallon bucket that I normally use for water changes and filled it with about 3-4gallons of tap water. Then I added the powder to the 5 gallon bucket and coated the filter. Then I used a tall glass and filled it with the water from the bucket and put the 2 lines in. Then I took the glass out of the bucket, added a 1/2 capful of Prime to the small glass (to prevent possible chlorine as mentioned above), and put the glass into the tank. Voila! No mess, no risk of dumping the powder into the tank, and much less room for error.
Next I went about placing the intake on the far side of the tank (left), and took off the diffuser of the output. This caused the even slow flow to be like a garden hose, and I CAREFULLY aimed around the right side of the tank, kicking up all sorts of fish waste/plant debris. Then I switched sides, put the intake output near each other, ect, until my hands were wrinkled! My filter was FILLED with gunk from the tank, and this might explain my high phosphates and general mild/moderate algae problems. I'm sure my cory and other fish also enjoy a cleaner bottom when scavenging for leftovers.
I'm still under high temp treating the possible Ich (its been at least a week and a half). I only ever saw a single white dot on the tail fin of one of the barbs, but with the recent hot weather and no AC (will be installed shortly) it seemed like the perfect time to treat for possible Ich.
I lost 1 Oto recently, but do not attribute it to Ich (his belly was HUGE a week or 2 prior to his death and he either had an internal parasite or overate himself to death). Hopefully the other fish will not get sick (no similar symptoms and they all seem healthy).
So here's another post praising the diatom filter. Anyone with a heavily planted tank should seriously think about getting one of these (so much gunk would get trapped in and around the roots and rot), and I think if you can afford one, a newly setup tank will also REALLY benefit from one.
I forgot to mention that prior to starting the diatom I trimmed all the plants back heavily, scraped the green spot algae off of the glass sides with a razor blade, and using a toothbrush scrubbed the diatoms off the ceramic pots, and gently scrubbed the anubias leaves to get rid of the wide variety of gunk built up on them (green spot algae, small amount of diatoms, hair algae, etc). All this maintainence made the tank very cloudy, and without the diatom filter would have mostly settled back down to the substrate. With the diatom, the majority of these pests were removed from the tank. I did a 30% PWC right before the filter btw for fertilizer/plant reasons (and to get some of the gunk out straight away).
I apologize for the long post, and for not getting a picture of the filter before I cleaned it, but suffice to say, the tank and its inhabitants are MUCH happier.
justin
greenmaji
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have run the system 1 and the vortex.. the system one is easier but if you only have a few tanks I dont see the point in paying the price diffence (I used the system one on a retail rack of tanks and I can see why they went with it)
This is mechanical filtration, everyone know that right? Hope you get your chemistry in check even if you have a bit of a cheat divise
This is mechanical filtration, everyone know that right? Hope you get your chemistry in check even if you have a bit of a cheat divise
OP
OP
7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
I don't understand the chemistry comment. I had a very slight amount of GW (almost imperceptable), the tank is still relatively new (diatoms), and the hair algae I attribute to my DIY CO2. I was mostly impressed with the way it removed all of the waste material that my gravel vacs have not been able to really deal with (because the waste tends to get trapped in the leaves of the plants).
greenmaji
Aquarium Advice Addict
well.. if your filtering mechanical waste with it for the most part that would be an intended purpose of mechanical filtration.
GW and Hair algae would be chemical problems, but your's are small and likely easily managable; sometimes I think showing the amazing results of DE makes it seem like a fix for GW, wich idealy it isn't.
GW and Hair algae would be chemical problems, but your's are small and likely easily managable; sometimes I think showing the amazing results of DE makes it seem like a fix for GW, wich idealy it isn't.
OP
OP
7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
I completely agree with that last sentence. And I found my problem....my lone female cherry barb bit the dust. It had to be at least a day or two before since the tank had a pretty bad smell when I went to trim the plants and do a PWC (30%). It's really frustrating having a medium/highly planted tank. Sometimes its impossible for me to find a fish for a couple days (unless I start poking around the tank), and I did do an ammonia test both a couple days ago as well as today after finding the fish. Fortunately my plants and well established biological filter showed negative, but it clearly gave the algae all the ammonia it needed.
I saw something really disgusting today for the first time ever. At first I though it was an egg pounch from my fish, but that didn't make sense, most obviously since it was 1/2 the size of a fish and there were a couple of them around the tank. I assume this was some sort of bacteria/algae but it looked like (for lack of a better description) snot, with some bubbles in it. It stayed together pretty well in the light current of the tank, but when I went to clean it out it would break apart a bit. It was sticky (originally on the plant leaves), and has me a bit concerned.
In light of the dead fish I hope it will go away (anything I didn't get out), but is there something I should be doing? I also have some long stringy black hairs attached to some of the plant leaves. These are unlike anything I've ever seen. Very thick (less than a human hair but close), and spaced out from each other. I removed all visible leaves that had these on them, but am still worried.
Last but not least, will the smell go away on its own or do I need to do many PWC's back to back to lessen it. With the tank top closed you cannot tell, but when I raise the lid to feed them I can definately smell it.
Thanks,
justin
I saw something really disgusting today for the first time ever. At first I though it was an egg pounch from my fish, but that didn't make sense, most obviously since it was 1/2 the size of a fish and there were a couple of them around the tank. I assume this was some sort of bacteria/algae but it looked like (for lack of a better description) snot, with some bubbles in it. It stayed together pretty well in the light current of the tank, but when I went to clean it out it would break apart a bit. It was sticky (originally on the plant leaves), and has me a bit concerned.
In light of the dead fish I hope it will go away (anything I didn't get out), but is there something I should be doing? I also have some long stringy black hairs attached to some of the plant leaves. These are unlike anything I've ever seen. Very thick (less than a human hair but close), and spaced out from each other. I removed all visible leaves that had these on them, but am still worried.
Last but not least, will the smell go away on its own or do I need to do many PWC's back to back to lessen it. With the tank top closed you cannot tell, but when I raise the lid to feed them I can definately smell it.
Thanks,
justin
OP
OP
7Enigma
Aquarium Advice Addict
Purrbox said:
Are you sure? I mean these were LARGE piles of "snot", like the size of the fish almost. And there were multiple ones in the tank. I can't imagine the number of snails in my tank (relatively small as I rarely see them even at night when I take a peek) could make that much gunk. But if that's the case I'm really glad then, since I was concerned it was something that caused the fish's death.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes, the snot is snail eggs. Each pile you can get anywhere from 10-1000 snails, depending on the snail.
Each pile you can get anywhere from 10-1000 snails, depending on the snail.
