Fighting Cyanobacteria

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Ryan87500

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So I have been loosing the battle against Cyanobacteria. My sand and some plants are infested with it right now.

Few weeks ago my entire back wall and a thick layer. I removed it and did a blackout which seemed to help.

I am running pressurized co2 and a planted + light on my 36 gallon bow. I also have a fluval 406 filter. Finally I am dosing dry ferts based on the EI calculator.

I think it is time to go the erythromycin route. Api treatment is expensive has anyone tried getting tables off of eBay? I would assume all erythromycin is created equal.

If anyone has any other suggestions I am willing to try other things. I was thinking Maybe I need a power head but trying not to have so much equipment.


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What gph would you recommend. I was also thinking where would I put it so it hits the sand area but doesn't create to much flow on the lower part of the tank.


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I had the 425 in my 36Bf but I had gravel. They really disperse the flow really well,.not like a jet like some do. I think there is one smaller.. a 250?...They are dead silent,..nice little additions for sure.
 
I had the 425 in my 36Bf but I had gravel. They really disperse the flow really well,.not like a jet like some do. I think there is one smaller.. a 250?...They are dead silent,..nice little additions for sure. Placement would be experimental... I had mine top corner pointing downward a bit
 
Did you just have one of them? I am thinking the bf creates a dead spot in the front because of the design. Which is where the cyano starts and then seems to spread.

As for size I was thinking maybe 250 but that might not be strong enough.


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You should be able to get an appropriate supply of API's erythromycin for <$20 online. That shouldn't be too much really. Nothing else really gets the job done. BGA is difficult because it's one of those algaes that can occur for seemingly no reason at all, and won't go away unless intentionally killed, unlike many species that will remit if the underlying conditions are corrected.
 
Did you just have one of them? I am thinking the bf creates a dead spot in the front because of the design. Which is where the cyano starts and then seems to spread.

As for size I was thinking maybe 250 but that might not be strong enough.


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The only one I have is the 425. It just let the plants sway,..It didn't lay them down on there side or anything.
 
Thanks will order the 425.

As for the api the dosing confuses me a little. Seems like I need 3-4 tablets every 24 hours for 5 days so looking at 20 tablets?




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Or get the packets designed for aquariums? One package per 10g, will need to treat the tank four times total, should only need two packages.
 
Right so two boxes of api. Which is fine would be about 22 bucks online. Seems like sellers on eBay of just pure erythromycin for a little cheaper but might not be worth the risk.

Happy to spend the money hopefully it doesn't come back. I don't think it is to much light and I am dosing nutrients so maybe it is a flow issue so maybe the koralina will solve that.


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Right so two boxes of api. Which is fine would be about 22 bucks online. Seems like sellers on eBay of just pure erythromycin for a little cheaper but might not be worth the risk.

Them putting API on the cover probably jacks it up a few dollars, but the dosing simplification is nice.


Happy to spend the money hopefully it doesn't come back. I don't think it is to much light...

Light is not quite as important a factor in BGA as other algae, but likely isn't helping.

... and I am dosing nutrients so maybe it is a flow issue so maybe the koralina will solve that.

The PH will help, but make sure to keep nitrates above 10 ppm for the foreseeable future, and don't skimp on nitrates. Otherwise I see this going well for you.
 
I am dosing based on the EI which I believe targets nitrates at around 30 but will need to double check that.




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I just tried to place the duckbill form my fluval towards the bow on the front side. Getting a lot more movement on the plants near the BGA. Might be time to build the spraybar to get the flow everywhere.

I did order the koralina as well as it seems like good to have.


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When I had BGA last year I went the API route. Fortunately the tank is only 20 g so one box was sufficient. It was present in the tank for several months; I would siphon it out and it would come back.
Before treatment, try to remove as much as you can. I found that the suction from a siphon hose during a PWC worked well at removing it. I treated with EM for 5 days. I noticed that at even after 5 days any remaining BGA slowly disappeared. I held off doing a WC until day 10.
Tank has been BGA free for over a year. I have a few areas with small patches of it. May have arrived while moving plants around (I did bring some in from my pond a few months ago and BGA was present in the pond over the summer).
Interestingly, a recent nitrate test revealed 5 ppm. A new low. I usually have 10-20 ppm and that's without dosing KNO3. I have started dosing KNO3 to bring it back up.


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Just curious for future reference. Does dosing EM affect the bio filter?


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I've wondered that myself. IME and observations on this forum, it appears okay for use with the BB. Meaning, I did not detect a mini-cycle through testing. Then again, I keep a low fish bioload with lots of plants so whose to say that the plants do not pickup the slack with the ammonia and nitrite. I think the key is "used as directed" with medications.
Here is an interesting discussion on the topic, http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=238445 particularly this excerpt quoted below. The answer according to this post appears to be "Yes" although there are other factors that come into play.
"Gram-negative bacteria are pathogenic in nature, since they can cause disease in a host organism and have a thin cell wall. Gram negative bacterial infections are much more common in fish, especially marine.

Some Gram Negative Bacteria:
- Aeromonas (anaerobic)
- Furunculosis; Aeromonas-salmonicida (anaerobic)
- Vibrio (anaerobic)
- Flavobacterium (Columnaris) (aerobic)
- Pseudomonas (aerobic)
- Streptobacillus (anaerobic)
- Salmonella (anaerobic)

Gram-positive bacteria do not always cause a disease in the host organism and have a very thick cell wall. Gram positive infections are less common in fish (or aquaria in general).

Some Gram Positive Bacteria:
- Mycobacterium (aquatic tuberculosis)
- Streptococcus (aerobic)
- Pseudonocardia (anaerobic)
-Staphylococcus (aerobic)
- Cyanobacteria (Oxygenic Phototrophic)

Coming to the issue of Nitrifying bacteria which are Aerobic Chemolithotrophic Bacteria :
- Nitrobacteraceae (aerobic)
- Nitrobacter (aerobic)
- Nitrococcus (aerobic)
- Nitrospina (aerobic)
- Nitrospira (aerobic)
- Nitrosococcus (aerobic)
- Nitrosolobus (aerobic)
- Nitrosomonas (aerobic)

Anaerobic Chemotrophic Bacteria
- Erythrobacter (anaerobic)

Another issue of importance is whether the antibiotic mediaction will kill the Nitrifying Bacteria inside the tank. So how do medications affect the beneficial bacteria ?

Antibiotics killing the nitrifying bacteria is ONLY true for gram positive antibiotics or overuse of others. Most true nitrifying bacteria (Autotrophic bacteria) are gram positive whilst the majority of aquarium infections are gram negative. So use of gram positive antibiotics such as Erythromycin has a greater risk of a nitrifying bacteria die-off than Kanamycin (which is both gram negative and gram positive, however it is more effective against gram negative bacteria). Some antibiotics are mixed. Ex. Tetracycline families, which are often equally divided such as Minocycline; however Tetracycline Hydrochloride is primarily a gram positive.

Erythromycin and Ampicillin are gram positive bacteria and can be harmful to beneficial bacteria. Erythromycin is also effective for Cyanobacteria.

Diseases in the aquarium can be of 3 types - Parasitic, Bacterial & Viral. Parasitical infection in most cases may be treated with Bath treatment. For Bacterial infection, antibiotics or a combination may work. However, for Viral infection, personally, I am very doubtful of the effectiveness of Antibiotics. Like in the case of humans, the antibodies within our body fight against these viruses. This disease last for 4-5 days and subsides on its own. Antibiotics have no effect on its treatment. Antibiotics are given during Viral infection not to treat it, but to prevent any other secondary infection which may arise during the course of treatment.

Some precautions to be taken during medication -
1) Remove Carbon (& some other chemical filter media)
2) Water Changing :
Changing water immediately prior to each treatment can improve the effectiveness and lower the possible toxicity of treatment. Organics present in the tank water can absorb the medication and thus reduce the effectiness of the medications. A 20% or larger, water change is recommended before medication. Some medications break down after 24-48 hours and can leave mildly to moderately toxic chemicals behind which a water change (or even running carbon in a filter for an hour or two) prior to the next treatment can help lower/remove."



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Fun fact though, cyanobacteria are gram negative and erythromycin still works, so the whole gram+/- system doesn't actually help out that much once you get beyond a cursory level.

For the record, I've never had a problem with my BB using erythromycin. Most packages will probably say something about 'possibly affecting BB' because they're covering themselves.
 
I just started my dosing. Do I do a water change everyday before I do the next dose? The box seems to suggest 25%. Wasn't sure if I follow that given I am treating for cyano and not a fish disease.


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