First time with a planted tank

[Kaneu]

Hello. I have a few questions to anyone with experience in the live plants area. I am trying to set up a 75g tank and I'm wondering how to proceed.

First question is airstones/bubblers. Can/should they be in a live planted tank?
Yes? No? Why or why not? Or does it matter one way or another?

Second, does anyone have or use flourite black sand? Does the dust cloud ever settle? I know it eventually does after a few hours, but whenever I do any work at the bottom, if just lightly placing a rock on the substrate, a huge cloud of dust flies up into the water. Does this ever go away? And if not then I'm guessing loaches or bottom feeders are out of the question?

Third, I have a water softener hooked up to my tap. So my water tests low on gH (obviously) and my kH is around 100 ppm. pH right out of tap is around 7.6 Is this ok to house ram cichlids and other tetras? I will have driftwood in the tank so I suspect the pH to drop with time.

Thank you in advance for answers. I'm excited to dive into the planted world of the hobby after doing artificial plants for years.

 

[Kaneu]

View attachment 298240
This is the tank I just set up with a few rocks and 4 pieces of driftwood. No plants in it yet.
What do you think? Should I add more rock? Less? Or move it around differently?

 

[Kaneu]

This is it. First time didn't work

 

[Funken_A]

You do not want to use an airstone or bubbler

Why because this degasses any CO2 from the water. In a low tech tank this isn't as much of a bother but most planted tank enthusiast look more for controlled water flow via filter pumps and outlets.

Water flow is important. You want to make sure every corner of your tanks is getting some water flow. dead spots from poor water flow can cause issues in those parts of the tank

You ALSO do not want to use a Hang on Back Biowheel filter or carbon filter medium. I have a HOB Bio wheel filter and I removed the biowheel and the carbon and instead packed it with filter floss and bioballs.
The Biowheel degasses Co2 and carbon filtration removes trace elements and nitrates. Our plants are now responsible for micros and macros. The plants need them so stripping them is counter productive.

If you have soft water then my recommendations is to buy some Calcium Chloride and some Epsom Salts. 1 tsp of each will raise your KH and GH a couple of points in degrees. in ppm not sure how that translates. I do this once a week and strive for a GH KH of 4 - 6 degrees each.

NOW LETS GET TECHNICAL

Are you going low tech or high tech. Will you have a Co2 system, how powerful are your lights. Do you have fertilizers and fertilizer plan / schedule... This is food for thought. Low tech tanks require a different approach than High tech tanks but both are based off the same balance principles

Low tech tanks require less $$$ hardware but also limit what can be done successfully. High tech tanks require an equal amount of understanding and more $$$

Make sure you light is adjustable, either being able ot raise it up or lower it or dim it if necessary. Light is a major part of the 3 pronged equation. It needs to be adjustable so you can find your balance. Out of balance tanks promotes algae. CO2 is another thing to be aware of. In a high tech environment we saturate the water with as much CO2 that it can handle without becoming toxic to inhabitants. In a low tech setup Co2 saturation is not possible or much harder to maintain with a cheap DIY system. BUT CO2 is another variable of the balance. More light requires more Co2 requires more ferts. Less light requires less Co2 and less ferts.. but the balance for every tank is slightly different and in the end your understanding of the principles of Freshwater planted aquarium balances is what you will be relying on to dial it in. Coming here and getting help stil requires a foundation of understanding to build from.

I highly recommend researching Tom Barr Estimated Index fertilization. There are other styles but this is good reading. Maybe someone else can chime in on other styles of fertlizing.

Any substrate you use should settle, and what doesn't settle will get filtered out through your filtration. Buy some root tabs that you can add to your substrate over time to replenish it. If your not doing any water fertilizing you will need to figure out what you can do in the substrate and you will then want to pick plants that are heavy root feeders. This can be a plus in low tech because now your keeping extra ferts out of the water column so alga can be kept in control. Sounds easy but one must have their finger on the pulse of the tank and be ready to act.

If you do not forsee your aquarium being a labor of love you will fail. I put hours into my tank every week, and my water change pruning weekly chore takes 2 - 4 hours depending. In the beginning due diligence is key. 50% water changes weekly minimum. After steady success you cna think about a 2 week schedule or maybe more depending but weekly water changes are highly recommended ESPECIALLY if you are high tech and dosing daily. Got to reset the water column from buildups




Overall your off to a good start just take it slow be patient as you can and continue ot ask your questions. I'll try to help

 

[Funken_A]

reading

Estimative Index - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

EI light: for those less techy folks - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

Confusion about EI and other myths - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

Algae prevention in your planted tank — Practical Fishkeeping Magazine


This ceg4048 dude is one of my favorite reads. He is direct and to the point and knows his stuff. Definitely waltz through his posts for some tech reading. He pulls no punches

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/search/11530068/

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...rients-helps-control-algae.36510/#post-425797

 

[Funken_A]

View attachment 298240
This is the tank I just set up with a few rocks and 4 pieces of driftwood. No plants in it yet.
What do you think? Should I add more rock? Less? Or move it around differently?

My opinion. Create some rolling hill like scapes. and or plan for plants that will give some cascading affect. Lots of ways to accomplish this, and then find appropriate plants to give that cascading affect its soul


Your doing well but its quite flat.. If your plan is for lots of tall plants in the back that is fine too.. but some natural ridges and cave or 2 always looks nice and fish love it.

 

[Kaneu]

Funken, you are awesome

I never expected someone to write so much information but I'm greatful you did. I plan to take it slow and learn as much as I can.
I don't have a CO2 system of any kind right now. I just bought a bottle of flurish Excel and was hoping that would work. I also bought pretty much every bottle of fertilizers​ from the seacham brand. (It was on sale online) so I will have it all.

I don't have any type of a schedule for doseing. Do you have any likes? Or layout of what to dose and how much would be great. The seacham website has a dose chart but it is fairly confusing to someone who doesn't know what they are doing.

So where can I buy filter floss? That kinda stinks because I bought brand new filters for this tank. The fluval C4 5-stage filters.

And since I am just starting out I was thinking a low tech planted tank but the more I read, the more I am realizing that it doesn't matter because both low and high tech require alot of attention. Not that I wasn't​ going to give it attention, just thought low = more forgiving. But I am realizing this isn't always the case.

My light is a Current satellite freshwater LED +
Only problem is that it 36" long and my tank is 48". The max light output is 6500k max LBG lighting. It comes with a remote that has several settings that can dim the lights down to lunar settings. I am realizing that this is not the ideal lighting system but I don't have the money to buy a brand new light bar. So this is what I will have to deal with until I can save up for it.

As for the tank layout I will try to move the substrate around to be more in the corners of the tank and leave the middle open for swimming. I will post pictures when I get a chance to move the decor around. I just need to try some new things.

Thanks so much for the articles to read. I will get to then asap and try to learn all I can about this hobby. I really do want to become great at this.
Thanks again for your advice.
I look forward to reading from you again soon.

Cheers,
Kaneu

 

[Funken_A]

Funken, you are awesome

Why thank you kind soul

I never expected someone to write so much information but I'm greatful you did. I plan to take it slow and learn as much as I can.
I don't have a CO2 system of any kind right now. I just bought a bottle of flurish Excel and was hoping that would work. I also bought pretty much every bottle of fertilizers​ from the seacham brand. (It was on sale online) so I will have it all.
I don't have any type of a schedule for doseing. Do you have any likes? Or layout of what to dose and how much would be great. The seacham website has a dose chart but it is fairly confusing to someone who doesn't know what they are doing.

Ok you got them but now you need to research it. Follow those links above> I use Estimated Index on a daily schedule but I am very high tech. Strong light full Co2.

If you are going low tech without co2 injection just liquid Co2 you will be more low tech. Your fert schedule will naturally be less. DO your reading. Try to find someone who has posted iinfo that has an aquarium close to what you are planning and copy some basic parameters to give you a baseline.

So where can I buy filter floss? That kinda stinks because I bought brand new filters for this tank. The fluval C4 5-stage filters.

As long as they are not activated carbon, or anything that would leach phosphates or nitrates out of your water. Your medium choices will be fine most likely. Just understand what you have. You can google search planted aquarium filtration mediums to see what is suggested and what others use

And since I am just starting out I was thinking a low tech planted tank but the more I read, the more I am realizing that it doesn't matter because both low and high tech require alot of attention. Not that I wasn't​ going to give it attention, just thought low = more forgiving. But I am realizing this isn't always the case.

Nope only difference is cash up front. Both require you to be passionate about it to the point you are willing to troubleshoot any issues. Once you get it dialed in you can relax some but you can't ever be lazy about it.

My light is a Current satellite freshwater LED +
Only problem is that it 36" long and my tank is 48". The max light output is 6500k max LBG lighting. It comes with a remote that has several settings that can dim the lights down to lunar settings. I am realizing that this is not the ideal lighting system but I don't have the money to buy a brand new light bar. So this is what I will have to deal with until I can save up for it.

6500k reading is only what the human eyes see. Plants don't care. Your light is fine just put the lower light plants off to the dark corners and the plants who need more light under the light. You can plan this out......You can also do some rock structures on the darker portion to caress your plants under.

What we care about with planted aqaurium light is

1.) Par rating at the substrate.. This will determine if you can raise certain plants. However good luck finding your par ratings for that lamp. Not alot of info

I will say this I run 3 watts per gallon of LED light. In the old day 3 watts of florescent light per gallon was considered solid medium light. With my Beamswork LED I have to raise this light 12 inches above my tank or its way too powerful

2.) Light color frequesncies. Look up plant light and you will see charts that show values in nm ... 420 - 500nm is blues greens 650nm - 750nm is reds oranges. My light is 10k but encompasses all these light frequencies. Your light is 6500k and most likely encompasses these same frequencies.

The only question we really need to know is how powerful is your light. You need ot know this because it will determine what plants you can raise and wil effect whether or not you wil need to add Co2 and how much ferts we need.

Post your make and model and see if you can find any tech data on your lamp

As for the tank layout I will try to move the substrate around to be more in the corners of the tank and leave the middle open for swimming. I will post pictures when I get a chance to move the decor around. I just need to try some new things.

You can do so much with a combo of rocks driftwoods and substrate. to build up those outside edges that wil be darker because of your short light. There is some real sexy rocks that can be purchased online and driftwoods..

Thanks so much for the articles to read. I will get to then asap and try to learn all I can about this hobby. I really do want to become great at this.
Thanks again for your advice.
I look forward to reading from you again soon.

Cheers,
Kaneu[/QUOTE]




no problemo.. I know a few things but don't know it all. I will try to guide you some but you really got to go out and read read read and be inspired by others work. Your head will spin but the ideas will flow... Every time you hit a wall ask another question

 

[Bert2oo1]

Why thank you kind soul



Ok you got them but now you need to research it. Follow those links above> I use Estimated Index on a daily schedule but I am very high tech. Strong light full Co2.

If you are going low tech without co2 injection just liquid Co2 you will be more low tech. Your fert schedule will naturally be less. DO your reading. Try to find someone who has posted iinfo that has an aquarium close to what you are planning and copy some basic parameters to give you a baseline.



As long as they are not activated carbon, or anything that would leach phosphates or nitrates out of your water. Your medium choices will be fine most likely. Just understand what you have. You can google search planted aquarium filtration mediums to see what is suggested and what others use

Nope only difference is cash up front. Both require you to be passionate about it to the point you are willing to troubleshoot any issues. Once you get it dialed in you can relax some but you can't ever be lazy about it.



6500k reading is only what the human eyes see. Plants don't care. Your light is fine just put the lower light plants off to the dark corners and the plants who need more light under the light. You can plan this out......You can also do some rock structures on the darker portion to caress your plants under.

What we care about with planted aqaurium light is

1.) Par rating at the substrate.. This will determine if you can raise certain plants. However good luck finding your par ratings for that lamp. Not alot of info

I will say this I run 3 watts per gallon of LED light. In the old day 3 watts of florescent light per gallon was considered solid medium light. With my Beamswork LED I have to raise this light 12 inches above my tank or its way too powerful

2.) Light color frequesncies. Look up plant light and you will see charts that show values in nm ... 420 - 500nm is blues greens 650nm - 750nm is reds oranges. My light is 10k but encompasses all these light frequencies. Your light is 6500k and most likely encompasses these same frequencies.

The only question we really need to know is how powerful is your light. You need ot know this because it will determine what plants you can raise and wil effect whether or not you wil need to add Co2 and how much ferts we need.

Post your make and model and see if you can find any tech data on your lamp



You can do so much with a combo of rocks driftwoods and substrate. to build up those outside edges that wil be darker because of your short light. There is some real sexy rocks that can be purchased online and driftwoods..

Thanks so much for the articles to read. I will get to then asap and try to learn all I can about this hobby. I really do want to become great at this.
Thanks again for your advice.
I look forward to reading from you again soon.

Cheers,
Kaneu

no problemo.. I know a few things but don't know it all. I will try to guide you some but you really got to go out and read read read and be inspired by others work. Your head will spin but the ideas will flow... Every time you hit a wall ask another question[/QUOTE]



He's on the money, very helpful info here. I wouldn't change any of it. One thing that might become an issue is your light may be abit strong in the center but u will soon find out if algae appears. Make sure your light is the first thing u adjust.

If dosing the seachem range I would just dose to recommended on the bottle as a good place to start.

Co2 is always good in low or high tech. Id say if u get some spare $$ that should be the next thing u get. A low tech with pressurised co2 is a really easy starting point.

 

[Kaneu]

no problemo.. I know a few things but don't know it all. I will try to guide you some but you really got to go out and read read read and be inspired by others work. Your head will spin but the ideas will flow... Every time you hit a wall ask another question

He's on the money, very helpful info here. I wouldn't change any of it. One thing that might become an issue is your light may be abit strong in the center but u will soon find out if algae appears. Make sure your light is the first thing u adjust.

If dosing the seachem range I would just dose to recommended on the bottle as a good place to start.

Co2 is always good in low or high tech. Id say if u get some spare $$ that should be the next thing u get. A low tech with pressurised co2 is a really easy starting point.

Thanks a lot. I will do my best to follow this advice. As for my light and CO2, I will save money and get a co2 system. Would it be better to save and get a good system that has the bells and whistles? Or should I stay on the cheaper side? What are your thoughts? I will do research on aquascaping with the rock and driftwood and do my best to replicate it. I'll post a picture when I get things moved around.