Frustrated with algae and sad plants

[Arboribabe]

I have an eight month old 55 gal. freshwater planted aquarium that I am extremely frustrated with. I wanted to go low-tech, but it is not working out that way. I really don't want to go to CO2 injection. Plants have been tough to manage, although CO2 booster has helped - they are growing well (except the sword), but their color isn't great. Biggest problem, though, is they get COATED with thick brown algae within a few days of a water change. I have gotten an exfoliating glove (from drugstore) that I use 2-3 days a week to wipe down the leaves. I also have to scrub the glass 2-3 times a week to keep algae off it. I've always had some algae, but after adding a few new plants two months ago I got the thick brown algae that coats everything - plants, rocks, logs. Each week I scrub all rocks and logs and pour boiling water over the rocks to try to kill the algae. That has helped, but not enough. I do a 25-30% water change weekly (sometimes twice a week) and I try not to disturb the substrate under the gravel - shallow siphoning to pick up loose debris on gravel surface. I feed daily, but definitely don't overfeed (my poor Cory's were getting really thin because not much food ever makes it to the bottom. I've started sinking spirulina wafers at night right before the lights go out and they are now gaining weight).

What in the world am I doing wrong? Why can't I get on top of the algae (even w/ using API Algaefix every three days as directed (had increased the frequency to every 2 days (saw a post that someone said they could double dose AND do every 2 days w/ no problems), but I lost two clown loaches not long after doing that, so I suspect the Algaefix killed them. I would appreciate any suggestions!


Filters: Fluval 306 plus an in-line ultraviolet light.
Substrate: Fluval planting substrate with 1-2 inch gravel on top
Plants: 1 Amazon sword, various crypts, spathiphylum and anubia
Fish: Tetras, rasboras, otos, cory cats, zebra Danio, clown loach (aquarium stocking level 98% w/ filtration at 87%)
Light: as of 6/26 using Fluval's Aqualife and plant performance LED (Dec-Jun used Powerglo T5 HO 18,000K and Life Spectrum T5 HO 6,700K). Lights on about 12 hours/ day
Temperature usually runs 76 - 80 degrees (was getting to 83 degrees, which is why I went to LED - fish are much happier and more active with LED).
Water parameters (generally test right before cleaning to see what max values are): HrPH 7.6-7.8, NH3 0-.25, NO2 0, NO3 5ppm (never seen it over 5ppm) PO4 .25
Additions: 5 ml API Co2 Booster daily; Excel's Flourish, Nitrogen, phosphorous and API Leaf Zone 1x/week; Excel root Tabs every 3 months; Algae fix 2-3x/week

 

[azmodan]

Firstly I'd cut your photoperiod. Most people with planted tanks run their lights for 6-8 hours (via a cheap timer). Some faster growing stem plants would help compete against the algae you have too as the plants you have are pretty slow growers right now. Anacharis, wisteria, watersprite, and some bacopas and some hygros are a few easy options, as are floating plants like dwarf water lettuce or frogbit. When you increase your plant mass you could also look into upping your dosage of glut, as with low tech tanks some go as high as 1-2 ml per gallon. Buying Metricide could be a much cheaper option in the long run.

Finally, got a pic of the algae?


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[clarkm]

I would cut out the algae fix. Lights should be on only 6-8 hours a day. Try a siesta in between. Mine are on from 8-11am and off then come back on at 3-8 pm for a total of 7 hours. It will help with algae but 12 hours is way to long. Also I would up the dosing on the co2 booster. Algae is just a imbalance of lights/co2/and ferts. Have to find the right mix. I dose 25 ml of straight metricide 14 in my 58 gallon tank every morning and it's twice as strong as co2 booster.
I'm getting great growth and color with dosing that much. No ill effects on fish, snails , or plants.





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[Fishperson]

Well your problem is the 18000k light. Plants can't do anything with that, but algae can. That needs to go. I agree with the siesta period. I'd do 4 hours on 3 hours off 4 hours on. Also ramp up your gluteraldahyde / excel dosing. Your Otos should be working harder than they are now. Mine take care of any algae that appears except Green Spot Algae. The algae in your tank sounds like diatoms, Otos should clear that up quickly. How many do you have?

 

[Arboribabe]

Thank you for the responses. I'll try to get a picture of the algae to post (I'm technologically challenged, so it will take me some time to figure it out!). I no longer use the 18,000k light as I switched to LED in June. How do I calculate if I'm low, medium or high light with the LEDs? I'll check into the Metricide. I have three otos, but honestly I've never seen them make a dent on anything. I don't want to go to bigger algae eaters like plecos because I want to keep with small fish (except for my two clown loaches - HAD to have them, but I'll sell to the LFS when they get too big).

I have never seen an NH3 level higher than 5ppm - is that because there's too much light? What is the reason to discontinue Algaefix? I stopped using it for two weeks after my favorite clown loach died, but algae got really out of control (besides the brown algae I have green algae that forms on the gravel substrate).

My crypts older leaves turn bronze colored - I'm assuming that's a nutrient deficiency. Will going to the Metricide help/ correct that?

 

[Arboribabe]

Here are two photos from this morning - the algae isn't too bad as I spent 1.5 hours scrubbing and cleaning this morning. Before scrubbing there were entire leaves coated in it. I don't think it is a diatom as it is stringy and doesn't 'melt' into nothingness when I touch it. The pale patches on the anubia I believe are caused by the algae - once I scrub it away the leaves under are paler. You can see the bronze color of the crypts in one of the photos - and a few leaves that I didn't get the algae all cleared from. Should they be bronze or is that a deficiency?

 

[Fishinfreak]

Here are two photos from this morning - the algae isn't too bad as I spent 1.5 hours scrubbing and cleaning this morning. Before scrubbing there were entire leaves coated in it. I don't think it is a diatom as it is stringy and doesn't 'melt' into nothingness when I touch it. The pale patches on the anubia I believe are caused by the algae - once I scrub it away the leaves under are paler. You can see the bronze color of the crypts in one of the photos - and a few leaves that I didn't get the algae all cleared from. Should they be bronze or is that a deficiency?

What kind of crypt are they, cause there are some that are colored like that, and others that aren't.

 

[Arboribabe]

I'm not for sure which crypt they are - I believe they are Cryptocoryne lutea though. New foliage comes out bright green, but turns bronze as they age.

 

[Fishperson]

That could be normal. I've never heard of Cryptocoryne Lutea before though.

 

[lifeoffroadfish]

That looks like black bears algae. Nasty stuff very hard to get rid of. Only way i managed was to cut back the lights. Overstocking causes that real quick to

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[lifeoffroadfish]

Beard not bears

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[Darkseid76]

Lights on about 12 hours/ day

^This

That's your number 1 problem. By the pics you're probably going to have to spot treat with carbon/peroxide methods and do a blackout. Lose the algae fix crap. And I couldn't really tell but you aren't supposed to plant anubias in the substrate. There are plenty of threads on this forum detailing effective CHEAP algae fixes.

GOOD LUCK!!


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