Green, Slimey Algae problem

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u2_Crazy

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
189
Location
Ontario, Canada
OK, I know this is probably posted hundreds of times for you but I have a green slime algae problem right now. It started about a month ago after I pruned my tank and It got way out of control until last weekend when I basically cut out a lot of plants which were covered, but it's still coming back. covering everything (Wood, Gravel, and Plants). What do you need to help diagnoes this?

29 Gal
I have a 55W PC Light
2 - 3 Liter DIY Yeast & Sugar Co2 mixtures (change 1 bottle bi weekly)
Black gravel
2 pieces of Mopani wood
Dosing Flourish and Flourish Potassium, just started Leafzone when Flourish bottle emptied.

The only thing I notice as a potential problem is that my test kits (both dip sticks and AP Liquid kit) show very low Nitrate levels (barely detectable) everythign else tests good, no nitrites or ammonia, PH around 7.6.

Any other info needed???

TIA
 
I see you described it as slimey. Does it wipe off easily, and then come back within a day or so?

Does it look like the first listing on This page? If so, that's BGA (blue-green algae), which is actually a bacteria caused when nitrates bottom out.

There are a few ways to get rid of it (and solve the source problem), but I'll wait until you give a positive ID before going into any of that.
 
BGA it is, that is what I figured myself. Thats why I added the bit about my Nitrates being very low.

One of the things I did was add in the bio wheel back in my marineland 200 filter. I had taken it out a few monts ago because I was told it outgassed too much of the co2 I was putting in.

So what now?? How do I fix this?
 
I would try a three day blackout to try and kill the stuff. You will then need to dose Nitrogen in order to keep it away. What are your CO2 levels?
 
not sure what my co2 levels are. I believe the ph, what is needed to calculate that? ph and KH? if so ph is 7.6 and kh was 120 this past weekend.

What is the best way to does nitrogen? is there a way to build it up better naturally?

Can you describe the blackout procedure for me or is it simply making the tank as dark as possible for 3 straight days? is there anything needed for the fish during this period??

Thanks for your help.
 
Like rich said, Nitrates are key. There's no point in bothering to do a blackout until you get your nitrates up. There are plenty of options for adding nitrates. You can use stump remover, dry ferts from greg watson (KNO3), or seachem nitrogen. Once you get that solved a blackout should do the trick.

If you do order ferts from Greg, there is other stuff you will want as well (most stuff is really cheap and you're mainly paying for shipping). If that's your plan, let us know and someone will tell you what all you should order.

I had BGA when I first started up my tank, so it's beatable.

EDIT

To do a blackout I used dark towels and put them over the tank. Make sure there is no light coming in at all during that process. The fish will be fine for a few days with no food, and you shouldn't lift the towels, blankets, or whatever you use in order to feed them.
 
Black out procedure is.

Clean as much of the stuff out as you can. Do a 50% water change. Wrap the tank well in black plastic and/or blankets. No peeking, no feeding, no nothing. After 3 days unwrap the tank and do another large water change. Hopefully you will be BGA free.

As for nitrogen, Flourish makes a Nitrogen fertilizer or you could get yourself some KNO3.

Your CO2 levels are only 5ppm. You may want to start changing out a bottle every week.
 
With a KH of 120 and a pH of 7.6 you only have 5ppm of CO2. Best to take the biowheel back out or stop injecting CO2. It's very difficult to compensate for the amount of CO2 that a biowheel gasses off when using DIY CO2. The combination is a waste of time, effort, and money.

If your Nitrates are barely detectable, that means that your plants are consuming it faster that your fish can produce it. It's a common situation in higher light tanks, which is why Nitrates, Phosphates, Potassium, and Traces are usually dosed in these tanks. Since your Nitrates are already bottoming out, it's likely that some of the other nutrients are also bottoming out or will once you start dosing Nitrates. Best to get ahold of all the ferts now so that you have them on hand already when you need to start dosing them.
 
well I guess I 'll have to start dosing the Ferts. I have alwasy been overwhelmed by the prospect of dosing dry ferts, I think what I really need is someone to teach me thourh the process of balancing the ferts in my tanks. BTW I live in Canada, any idea where to get the ferts here??

Thanks
 
I'm going to do the 3 day black-out, I have started dosing the dry ferts and the algae has been knocked down quite a bit but it is still growing in some calmer spots of the tank.

My final question about this, do I still dose the ferts during the blackout?
 
There's no need to dose during a blackout since your plants won't be using any of them. Just start dosing again after the blackout.

I wouldn't even feed your fish during the blackout. They will be fine with no food for 3 days.
 
JRagg is quite right, do nothing just try to ignore your beautiful tank being all covered up. Hopefully it will be worth it.
 
It's been 12 hours now. Luckilly I'm working all week and out of town on Saturday. I can't wait for Sunday morning, I hope to unveil the tank and find a pleasent surprise! (no Algea) :)
 
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