High Tech Planted Questions

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by blert

Are you using a pH controller or a timer?

Controller. Currently it is set to 7.0 which makes the drop checker bright green

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by CorallineAlgae

It's better to run a slightly strong bps rate for 8 hours a day with a controller and a stable, slower rate with just a timer. Having it run for 24 hours isn't a good idea. I actually have an air pump that runs on the same timer as my moonlight. They're on for about 5 hours after the lights are out. It gasses off co2 which isn't needed at night. Does that make sense?

It does make sense. I've been running a higher bps but figured I'd ask about the 24 hr idea.

Originally Posted by aqua_chem

I'm wondering if the excess co2 might be causing some problems as well.

Well the CO2 is off for the next day and a half so it should offgas so I can start fresh.

[CorallineAlgae]

It isn't necessary to off gas as long as you have good surface agitation. I only have a little surface agitation which is why I run an air pump at night. My tank would probably be fine without it. I ran it for years without a pump and the same co2 system. You shouldn't need to turn yours off for a day. That might be bad for your BBA issue.

[blert]

Originally Posted by skywhitney

Controller. Currently it is set to 7.0 which makes the drop checker bright green

Are your fish showing any negative effects?

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by CorallineAlgae

It isn't necessary to off gas as long as you have good surface agitation. I only have a little surface agitation which is why I run an air pump at night. My tank would probably be fine without it. I ran it for years without a pump and the same co2 system. You shouldn't need to turn yours off for a day. That might be bad for your BBA issue.

It was off cause we weren't home and the lights aren't on a timer. I have very little surface agitation currently.

Originally Posted by blert

Are your fish showing any negative effects?

not at all. They all act completely normal and stay near the bottom/middle of the tank like always.

[CorallineAlgae]

I see. That makes sense. I'd be lost without my timers. I'd probably give up fish keeping without them! ^o^

[skywhitney]

Here is a pic of what I'm dealing with. I'm not 100% positive it's BBA but that's the best guess I have. There is a little growing on the substrate that looks green to me.

[blert]

Staghorn?

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by blert

Staghorn?

Definite possibility. Let me get a closer pic for ya.

Edit:here are a couple closer pics.

[CorallineAlgae]

You can try the super hygiene method. Cut light down to about 5-6 hours for a week or two, trim off all of the badly affected leaves, spot treat everything else with Excell, do small 15-20% water changes every couple of days, stop dosing phosphate and nitrate for about 5 days and stop feeding for a few days then feed lightly. That's just what worked for me last year when I had a run in with it and BBA at the same time. It was also on my driftwood and I actually boiled it and only returned it to the tank after the algae was completely gone. It's a pain but it worked. I made sure to keep my co2 going. Others may tell you to keep nitrates high but that didn't help me.

Low nitrates can encourage BBA but the temporary short light period and super clean conditions as well as the Excel didn't let that happen. It actually KO'd the BBA. There's different ways to fight it. This is just what I did.

[aqua_chem]

Is it still growing? I would probably start daily dosing excel and spot treating with hydrogen peroxide. Reducing any ferts is probably asking for trouble. Algae like that usually comes about when you run out of something rather than when you have too much of something.

[skywhitney]

It is still growing, yes. I started the Excel dosing yesterday and some of it is already turning white and dying. I decided to test my params and these are the results.

Here are a few more details about the current params in the tank.
PH - 6.8
Ammo - 0
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 0
KH - 8 dKh
Phosphates - 13 ppm

I think i might be going through a mini cycle since I switched out the substrate and cleaned the canister (I might have cleaned it to well). anything else seem amiss to you all?

[aqua_chem]

Are you using API's phosphate kit?


Since you've already started Excel, I would stick with that for at least a week to see what effect that will have.

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by aqua_chem

Are you using API's phosphate kit?

Since you've already started Excel, I would stick with that for at least a week to see what effect that will have.

I am using the API test but I tested it on my RO/DI water and it resulted at 0 so I'm a little more confident about the results.

Just stick with the Excel for a week? Would the lack of nitrates be factoring into this equation at all?

[aqua_chem]

Possibly. Are you not using EI anymore?

[skywhitney]

Originally Posted by aqua_chem

Possibly. Are you not using EI anymore?

I still am. I haven't been dosing nitrates in a long time though cause I haven't needed to

[aqua_chem]

I would probably start doing basic EI for the time being, especially considering that you've bottomed out on nitrate.

[FrankAbagnale]

Any updates? How do you like using the sump? I thought about getting the same model sump. Sorry if you mentioned it before, but what overflow are you using?

[skywhitney]

lol I actually kinda forgot about this thread, well the updates as far as the sump system go would be that i no longer use sumps on my FW systems, other than an increased water volume I couldn't really find any benefit to it. To answer your questions, I like the sump a lot, and the overflow is a CPR CS90.

A lot has happened with the tank in general so I'm not really sure where to begin.

[FrankAbagnale]

I was thinking about going sump, but my biggest concern is noise. Currently using a canister so it's not like I need a sump. Just thought it would be cool to try out.