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Old 08-08-2013, 01:05 PM   #21
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I think your correct. Any advice as to any fast growers? I have Hygrophila angustifolia which was growing well but I trimmed it down and now it's not looking so hot. Other than my sword, those were my fastest growers. So what would be some good options to soak up the light and nutrients?
There's a ton of Rotala species like Rotala colorata, rotundifolia, macrandra, wallichii, etc.

Ludwigia red, ludwigia repens, ludwigia glandulosa, etc....

Pogostemon erectus.... stargrass, blyxa japonica, HM (baby tears), HC (dwarf baby tears), DHG, etc.

You should PM Rivercats... she would have a nice list for you. Aqua_Chem should have some good suggestions... or even Jetajockey... jeta has that Peabody's paradise plant store... they're should be some good options there as well if you're looking to buy online.

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Old 08-08-2013, 02:00 PM   #22
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Yes I've spoken to Rivercats numerous times. I'm not having any luck with red plants and it's really frustrating. Everything keeps falling apart and melting away. Why might this be?
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:11 PM   #23
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What red plants did you have? Are they getting covered in BBA too?
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:15 PM   #24
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What red plants did you have? Are they getting covered in BBA too?
Rotala magenta and wallichi, ludwigia peruensis, and Limnophila hipp. No they were not getting covered just consistently coming apart and melting to nothing
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:17 PM   #25
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What PC bulbs are you using? What size/wattage fit? Sometimes bulbs that come with fixtures are the cheapest/crappiest you can have. I had integrated PC lighting/ballast in one of my tanks and when I changed them bulbs to 1x 6500K and 1x 10,000K coralife that growth exploded (with ferts and co2 considered). The boxes the bulbs came in had nice little spectral graphs that showed I was getting a good amount of full spectrum, especially spikes in reds and blues ... something which I think red plants benefit from.
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:19 PM   #26
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I don't know if I believe all this to be true. This whole algae topic has me really frustrated lately, and I'm not even having problems myself. I'm just struggling to understand all these theories. The whole "out compete" thing has my head spinning... I mean, we dose ferts in to the water column, we have lights on all day, nutrients are always present, so how is it a competition if all is readily available for plants OR algae to utilize during our photoperiods? And the abundance of nutrients claim is a crock to me as well, more often different types of algae are contributed to a LACK of nutrients, or bottoming out on one... I've seen multiple claims of 0 nitrates cause BBA, 0 phosphates can cause GSA, and so on... You should be able to grow what ever plants you want in a high tech setup, just because they are deemed low light, doesn't mean they're not going to grow faster in high light... They definitely will. I've had Anubis nana in a med-high light setup sprout new leaves ever few days, and that is a low light plant.

Really, I think what I'm trying to say is, you have to find the right balance... If 6 hours is causing you problems, back off an hour and see how it goes... I know it sucks, but a short photoperiod is better than staring at a tank full of BBA for 8 hours. Research what different types of algae are typically caused by, and try to fix the problem. And even if you do fix the cause, it takes A LOT of effort on our part in the way of cleaning, water changes, trimming affected leaves, etc., to make sure the algae doesn't have a chance to come back. The more you get out, the cleaner your filter, etc., the less chance you have of fighting it again. Make sure your params are spot on(nitrate between 10-20 and phosphate between .5 an 5) and adjust your photoperiod and co2 to what works. Wow, I really just went on a good rant there... Good luck!
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:20 PM   #27
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Rotala magenta and wallichi, ludwigia peruensis, and Limnophila hipp. No they were not getting covered just consistently coming apart and melting to nothing
Lol.. you didn't mention these earlier. Only swords and hygro angustofolia. These are some fest growers... right? They just didn't last and melted away?
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #28
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Wow...Bill! Haha...
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #29
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Wow...Bill! Haha...
With so many people posting about having problems, it has me thinking about it all the time... I mean REALLY think about it Brian! Haha I stated on another thread about the bottoming out on something during your photoperiod, hence slowing down or stopping the photosynthesis in our plants, but algae needs much less to grow, so it takes advantage and does just that... This still kind off relates to the "out compete" theory, though... Ugh, I just don't understand if everything is present in the water column, why don't BOTH grow at the same time??? Why are we able to control it?
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:41 PM   #30
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You guys have me really interested now... Haha :p
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:47 PM   #31
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Makes sense...guess I've been following blindly an old train of thought. Guess I'll be thoroughly researching this topic more. I just saw great improvement using fast growing plants in my high tech tanks in terms of algae reduction... the slow growers I've kept in the same conditions, like my anubias, continue to get BBA where I find myself having to spot treat with h2o2 (with no signs of BBA on fast growers). But there are indeed other factors to consider, nuances that involve balances of lights, co2, and nutrients.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:02 PM   #32
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I know I didn't mention them because they haven't been around long enough. I just introduced them two weeks ago but they are not adjusting at all. It's so dam frustrating it makes me wana just break it down. I got co2 to achieve more growth with my light and I haven't seen any improvement over using just excel it just doesn't make sense at all. Hopefully raising the light does something. Yeah my java ferns and anubias both get a good amount of BBA. It swallowed up my micro sword, what a waste of a plant little to no growth whatsoever. Same with my anubias nana just sprouts a couple leaves and that's it. The only plant truly thriving is my amazon sword and my star repens and dwarf sagg is doing pretty well also
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:03 PM   #33
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I know I didn't mention them because they haven't been around long enough. I just introduced them two weeks ago but they are not adjusting at all. It's so dam frustrating it makes me wana just break it down. I got co2 to achieve more growth with my light and I haven't seen any improvement over using just excel it just doesn't make sense at all. Hopefully raising the light does something. Yeah my java ferns and anubias both get a good amount of BBA. It swallowed up my micro sword, what a waste of a plant little to no growth whatsoever. Same with my anubias nana just sprouts a couple leaves and that's it. The only plant truly thriving is my amazon sword and my star repens and dwarf sagg is doing pretty well also
How and what are you dosing? What are your params?
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:03 PM   #34
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What PC bulbs are you using? What size/wattage fit? Sometimes bulbs that come with fixtures are the cheapest/crappiest you can have. I had integrated PC lighting/ballast in one of my tanks and when I changed them bulbs to 1x 6500K and 1x 10,000K coralife that growth exploded (with ferts and co2 considered). The boxes the bulbs came in had nice little spectral graphs that showed I was getting a good amount of full spectrum, especially spikes in reds and blues ... something which I think red plants benefit from.
I'm using two 6700 PC's from SunPaq. I have a 10k should I put that back in or just leave the two 6700s?
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:09 PM   #35
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How and what are you dosing? What are your params?
I was dosing the "green" regimen from GLA.com but my nitrates were stable on their own so I stopped dosing (5-15 ppm). I do phosphates when necessary and I'm usually between 5-10. I dose micros at 4ml daily.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:36 PM   #36
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Bill,






Preach it!







The whole "outcompeting" theory never made much sense to me. What the heck are they competing for? EI is based on a theory of unlimited resources for all, so outcompeting doesn't make a lick of sense there. Excessive ferts causing algae seems just as bunk. Both plants and algae have a finite amount of a resource they can consume in one day. Why should they care if they've got 5 ppm or 50 ppm*? This is one of the reasons I like EI for outsmarting algae. It takes fertilizers entirely out of the equation so you can limit your approach to co2 (flow, dispersion, etc) and light (intensity, duration) rather than monkeying around with ferts, which can be a fools errand in a thank that's doing well.

Edit: I definitely think that reducing your light intensity should be the first thing you do. Plants can adapt to low light better than algae can, or at the very least you can slow it down while you take a more chemical approach.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:56 PM   #37
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Well this thread was productive... not only for the OP. Opened my eyes to look beyond the old and misinformed advice. I guess it may not be simply outcompeting the algae in terms of low light vs. High light plants... is it because the 'fast growing' characteristics of certain stem plants have a high turnover rate of new leaves, it allows little time for algae to adhere to and grow? Conversely, slow growing plants are easy targets in these same conditions, because leaves are left exposed longer and there is no need to prune as often?
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:03 PM   #38
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Well this thread was productive... not only for the OP. Opened my eyes to look beyond the old and misinformed advice. I guess it may not be simply outcompeting the algae in terms of low light vs. High light plants... is it because the 'fast growing' characteristics of certain stem plants have a high turnover rate of new leaves, it allows little time for algae to adhere to and grow? Conversely, slow growing plants are easy targets in these same conditions, because leaves are left exposed longer and there is no need to prune as often?
Seems logical to me, the only plants covered with algae were "old" leaves. But what's strange is why are not other areas of my tank that remain undisturbed not covered in algae? The drift wood is only covers in areas in which bark still remains. One of my rocks has some of it as well but a small portion. And only on the edges of my slate. What is so attractive about slow growing plants to BBA?
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:38 AM   #39
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Just got a pair of the ZooMed light stands so I could raise my light. The light is only 30" long which sucks. Anyway my fabrication worked great and it's somewhat an eyesore for now but ill perfect it eventually. I think ill keep updating this thread so we can as a community get on point with what exactly is the reason for BBA. Too much conflict going around lol. And no my window is not always open like that the shade just happened to fall while I was doing this GRRR!
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