You folks are still assuming those test kits are correct.
You still base the dosings on their readings.
Suppose that 10ppm on that test kit is really 2ppm, or 5ppm.
Suppose the PO4
test kit is measuring just total PO4
(They all do, (the hobby kits) after all) and not the bioavailable forms from KH2PO4? Suppose that reading is really 0.4ppm and not 2 ppm
How can you answer that/these question/s with any confidence?
Faith? Pray they work?
Calibrate them, mix up a solution of 5 ppm
, 40ppm for NO3
, make a liter at a time and then dilute a sub sample of these with DI
water. Then you can make a series of 5ppm, 10pp, 20ppm, and 40ppm for NO3
Do the same for the PO4
over the range, 0.2 ppm
, 0.5ppm, 1.0ppm, 1.5pp, 2.0ppm etc
Then you no longer need prayer to hope that the test kit is right, note, this still does not tell you if the fraction of is bioavailable, there's plenty of organically bound N and P floating around tanks.
By doing large water changes, that removes all that. Then you add inorganic ferts and can be assured that you have at least that much based on a simple dosing calculator.
Merely because you added some KNO3 does not imply that BGA will go away, I never said nor told you that.................
I said it can prevent it from coming back.
will induce BGA, you already have a an algae issues, you have to kill what's there first, see above post, 3 day blackout will do.
Then you dose thereafter top prevent infestations.
20-30ppm is a better range for NO3
and 2-3ppm for PO4
for plant growth.
These are easy targets to dose using a dosing calculator and water changes.
No test kit issues or other assumptions are brought into the tank this way.
It's simple and folks already do water changes.
If you do test and want to correlate algae blooms, then you need to start with an otherwise healthy tank and then remove the NO3
Otherwise you have no control, so a tank that already has algae is a bad tank to use to do test on, there's no control and it could be a dozen different things.
You lack the control and test methods to say much about the tank.
The algae do not lie, the test kits when not calibrated etc, most certainly do.
Note, I'm not trying to give you a hard time, many aquarist think that because they have high PO4
etc and they have algae, it's due to that.
But that's simply not true.
If you do a control test, use proper methods, you cannot not induce either algae with high PO4
, nor with high NO3
Once an algae is there, the best way to handle it, is kill/remove what is there and make sure the plants have the right conditions to grow well. Otherwise the algae just keeps coming back again and again. Then you wasted all the labor and effort removing the algae.
Focus should be on the root cause, then and rest of algae management is easy.
So focus on the plants and algae will no longer be much of an issue for you.
Few get into this hobby to learn how to kill and grow algae, nor to enjoy using test kits near as I can tell yet many lose sight of the real reason they got into the hobby, to grow plants, so focus on that, not test kits, not killing algae.