Looking into CO2

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Da Squid

Aquarium Advice Freak
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Mar 1, 2009
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Pittsburgh, PA
I have a 55 tank full of low light plants right with HUGE thread algae problems. I was planning on springing for a presurized system this x-mass, but thought I might dabble in the DIY for now to get some experience with the concept and maybe help me out with all the algae cleanings I'm forced to do.

I've read some articles on here and had one initial concern. My tank's PH is at least 6.0 (as low as the API reads anyway). The CO2 will only lower the PH further...but I'll be unable to test it to find out what I'm working with. Has anyone else had to deal with this issue? Worst case scenario I can start taking out driftwood but are there any other options?
 
I think the pH going lower will be fine. What is your KH?

No, you won't be able to test I don't think. But if you are wanting to know if you have adequate co2, get a drop checker. Red Sea makes a fairly cheap one. You can get nicer ones elsewhere that are glass. You'll need a solution that is 4 degrees KH to put in the drop checker and they come with the color indicator. 30ppm is ideal and will turn the drop checker green. You'll need alot of DIY CO2 bottles in order to get 30ppm of co2 IME on a 55g. The co2 levels from DIY are pretty inconsistent at times too and IME can cause some black beard algae. If you are considering pressurized co2, I suggest biting the bullet and just put a system together. Its easier to manage and will be more consistent.

How much light do you have over your tank?
 
agree with justonemore. you could also used crushed coral or some rocks to help raise it if you are too worried.
 
Thanks all. I'm not sure about the KH/GH (just ordered a test kit from BigAl as well as some root tabs) but I'm using a Nova light fixture with two 54 watt T5 bulbs. One 10,000k and one actinic. I hope to switch out the actinic for a 6,500 T5, but probably not safe till I get some reliable CO2.

I didnt want to mess around with DIY in a 55g tank either... but the rampant thread algae is a pain to clean every two days. I'm not being nit picky about it either. The threads twine together into ropes and the ropes are as thick as my finger. Its pretty awful. Maybe it would be safer to just experiment with ferts first instead though...wouldnt want any BBA.

With those fancy presurized systems, I read that they have a PH sensor that you can set to a desired level, that way it kicks in at key times to keep the tank balanced. If my PH is below 6, would it be able to still function? 6.0 seems to be the magic # for all these readers.
 
You don't have to use a pH controller. That's an extra cost and more like a luxury co2 system item. :) If you were worried about the pH going even lower, you could add some crushed coral, like mg suggested.

What kind of plants do you have and how often are you feeding your fish? You shouldn't have too much of a thread algae problem in low light IMO...so I'm wondering what could be causing yours.

A good way to get rid of hair, thread, staghorn algaes is Flourish Excel. Spot dose the algae with a syringe. I'd do this after trying to remove what you can. You can use 2-3 times the dose on the bottle. That has killed hair algae for me in the past.
 
I'm not sure the names of all the plants, but the basic low light stuff. java moss, ferns, some swords in the back that are struggling because I never gave them root tabs... :(

Fish wise I just have 3 black mollies now and a few little baby ones. I feed them VERY sparsely every other day. They do a great job at picking on all the algae. I'll probably be adding either an SAE or a school of tetras soon.

The thread algae seems to be growing off everything. Plants, rocks, substrate and even attached to the glass. I'm not sure I'd know where to begin with spot treating. But I'll try triple dosing...every day did you say?

This observation may sound silly to the pro's out there (thanks for hearing me out by the way :) ) but the thread algae seems to be worse on hot days when the tank is pushing 85 degrees. On cooler days when it drops to 79ish the growth seems minimal. I'm probably just grasping at straws here. Perhaps I'll the money saved from not getting the luxury PH monitor on an AC unit for my stuffy room, haha.
 

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Great looking tank!

I would start with double dosing every day. See what happens....see how the fish react (they should be fine) and how the algae reacts after a few days.

I haven't had to deal with too high temps in a while (thankfully) so the increase on warmer days might be an issue. What type of filter(s) do you have and do you have any powerheads? There is less gas exchange when the water is warmer *I think* so that could be an issue? I know in tanks without co2 injection, surface agitation is a good thing...how much surface agitation do you have?

Sorry for all the questions...just trying to see if anything sticks out to me about why you are having such a bad algae issue.
 
Not at all, I appreciate all the help! I have a Cascade 1200 cannister. Its a little much for my tank but the mollies seem to have fun wizzing around with the current near the top. I have the output aimed towards the surface to cause a strong ripple but no splashing. I could always use the spray bar attachment instead if you think that could help too.
I love your tank by the way!! Thats what I'm aiming for once I get CO2 and double the lighting, lots of bright green and red bush plants and some colorful schooling fish.
 
While most of the test kits only go down to about 6.0 pH, you could look into picking up a pH pen meter. They are relatively inexpensive and will read much lower and higher levels of pH than a test kit.
 
Just got my BigAl's order :). I'm putting a few root tabs in the back for my amazon swords that have been slowly melting. I also got a Nutrafin KH/GH test kit. Bear with me because I'm not completely confident about this hardness stuff yet, but the KH test... after the first drop the water is supposed to turn blue. Mine just slightly tinted the water yellow. I added another drop after drop and it just got a little more yellow each time. Does that mean my KH is less than 20? The GH test was easy. 6 drops X 20 = 120 GM. I'm still not totally sure what these numbers mean though?

BTW, the thread algae is still present but is growing much slower. Either the mollies are nibbling it down, or my tank somehow righted itself.
 
I'm not familiar with the Nutrafin test but the AP test I use turns the water blue with the first drop, and then turns it yellow in 3 drops, so my KH is 3 dKH. Go by the number of drops that it takes to get the yellow to appear. Any more than that is just going to darken the yellow color as you've seen. My AP directions say that if the solution will turn from clear to its yellow endpoint after one drop is added if the sample contains only 1 degree of KH. Is your water supplied by West View? Then it probably would have similar properties to mine, and my KH is on the low side, around 3. I've never had problems with CO2 injection but then my substrate buffers the KH up a bit.

Are you multiplying by 20 to get from degrees to ppm? My booklet says multiply dKH by 17.9 to get ppm KH. My tap GH is around 8 dGH.
 
Thanks, and yes! I'm in Bellevue and do have West View water. My Nutrafin directions seem to be similar to your API, so it sounds like I have less than 1 degree of KH. Though it tells me to multiply the KH by 10 rather than 17.
So my tank KH is <1 degree and mh tank GH is 6... are those numbers alright for a planted tank? I'll probably add some crushed coral soon to ease the guess work out of my future CO2 project.
 
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