New 29g Southeast Asian Biotype Planted. Questions

[kyouens]

Hello everyone,

I'm just starting a new 29g planted tank and I'm planning on doing a biotype, most likely Southeast Asian Backwater. I've been reading these forums for a few days now, and I feel like I'm getting a handle on a few things but I still have some questions. My current setup is:

29g all-glass tank
Fluval 204 canister filter (ceramic prefilter and bio-rings or whatever they're called)
Eco-complete substrate (40 lbs)
100W marineland heater (too small, I know, but the ambient temp in my house is around 75)
Python (this thing is awesome)
36 watt coralife light

Right now, I've got the tank set up and running with three small java ferns planted in it while I do my cycle.
I also kind of added a single Fire Gourami after reading in two aquarium books at Barnes and Noble about cycling using fish. (i know, this is no good, I shouldn't use fish in this modern age. I'm weak.). I'm just starting the cycling process and my first measurements were ammonia 1 ppm and nitrates/nitrites 0 ppm.

My questions have mostly to do with plants / lighting / CO2. I know I need better lighting.

1. How many watts / gallon do I need to have a thriving planted tank with this biotype? I think the main plants will be giant hydrophila and bamboo plants but I plan to have a wide variety eventually. There is a 65 watt coralife full spectrum light I'm looking at that would put me above 2 WPG. Would that be enough?

2. Would I require CO2 supplementation if I used the 65 watt light? If so, could somebody recommend a good yet less expensive CO2 setup? I'm too busy at work to do too much DIY, so a storebought one would be ok.

3. Anyone know of any authoritative books about Biotype tanks? Also, if you had to name one book that had the most info about freshwater aquarium fish (and plants) what would it be?

Thanks very much for any info you guys might have. Also, if you have any other general advice it'd be much appreciated. This site is awesome. I'll put some pics of my tank up once I get it planted. Thanks very much.

Kenny

 

[workfortheman]

As far as cycling, you really should put some fast growing stem plants in there to ease the pain on the gourami.

65 watts would be plenty, my 29 gallon did fine with 55 watts.

You would REALLY benefit from co2 at that light. I guess I can't say "required" though, but if you don't get it you will have significant algae problems. As for a cheap but non-DIY setup, just saw THIS one at DrsFosterSmith.com, or you could go with the ol' Hagen Nutrafin system found HERE.

sorry, can't help you out with the biotype tank book!

Sounds like a great idea and can't wait to see pics

 

[crazyred]

You could use Flourish Excel, a liquid form of carbon, instead of CO2, it works pretty well in a low/med light plant tank. Anacharis is very sensitive to it though.

 

[kyouens]

Thanks for the suggestions

Thanks for the tips, guys. I went to my LFS and traded in my 36-watt light for a better 65 watt, which puts my WPG at about 2.25. I think this should be enough for me to grow most of the low-moderate light-requiring plants I'll want in my tank. While I was there I picked up several Vals (not sure which species, they didn't have it labeled) and several Rotala Indica. I make take these out eventually if they don't fit into my overall scheme later. Do you think these will do the trick for easing the burden on the Gourami?

I also bought a bottle of Flourish Excel to use for the time being, while I figure out a long-term CO2 solution. I plan to make a huge plant /driftwood / rock order online in a week or so, and will use that time to finish making my plans and to let my tank continue to start cycling. I won't add any more fish until that's pretty much done.

As far as finding biotype books, I've been pretty disappointed with what is available. I have searched several bookstores and online, and I've found only a few good resources. Most of the books seem geared more towards fun / pretty rather than biological accuracy. Of course, I'm interested in fun and pretty, but it would be nice to have an authoritative reference to use while planning. There are enough net resources available to where I'm not left out in the cold, though.

Thanks again for the tips. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

 

[Jchillin]

I'm not sure if you came across this: Asian Blackwater Biotope

I've found this site to be great for info on biotope tanks.

 

[kyouens]

Thanks for the great link Jchillin. That's site definitely adds lots to the info I currently have. One question for someone--the site says that in this biotype, "There should be little surface current. " The output from my Fluval 204 is, at present, being expelled through a nozzle that came with the filter at just about surface level. This is creating some surface turbulance and I can see that there are also some minor currents in the lower parts of the tank as well. Is there any good way to reduce the "blast effect" of the filter? Thanks for the great tips so far!

 

[Jchillin]

The good thing about having the biotope setup is, you don't need your filter going at full speed. You can turn it down to half. The output nozzle is also adjustable on the fluval so that you can submerge it. Hopefully, you have enough hose to do this. Fluval also has a spray bar which can replace the nozzle.

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

Water Temp: 75° to 77°

Lighting: 1.5 watts per gallon and more needed up to 15 hours per day.

Substrate: Coarse River Sand

Water Changes: Up to 1/3 of tank volume every 14 days

pH: 6.8 to 6.9

Total Hardness: 3° to 4° DH

Co2 (Carbon Dioxide in Solution): 6 to 8 mg per litre

Fish Types: Cyprinids: i.e. Barbs, Danios, Rasboras, & Sharks. Anabantids: i.e. Bettas & Gouramis. Loaches, Rainbowfishes, Elephant Fish, & Eels.

Closest I could find was Asian Habitat

However the lighting is ultimately up to you.

The filter output can be lowered a little, I have the 304 and it doesn't aggitate my surface at all.

 

[czcz]

Very cool project. If you are considering a strict biotope, The Crypts Pages lists sp by country: http://132.229.93.11/Cryptocoryne/Countries/MainAsia.html

 

[kyouens]

WizardofOzz, I was actually contemplating purchasing that Asian plant package you linked to. I have read a few good reviews of azgardens.com, and apparently they're a good business. I forgot that I can turn down the output on my filter--I think I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the reminder. Czcz, thanks for the link. I'll be able to use that when I'm double-checking the plant list at azgardens to make sure they really are Asian plants. Maybe I'm paranoid, but after some of the advice I received at my LFS, I am cominng to the conclusion that it's a good idea take what they say with a grain of salt. . .

One more question....Does anyone know a good online place to get Driftwood? I've found mostly African wood but I guess I'd like to get some Asian wood to stay consistent. Then again, I'm using Eco-Complete substrate, which I don't think is biotype-approved

 

[Lonewolfblue]

Thanks for the great link Jchillin. That's site definitely adds lots to the info I currently have. One question for someone--the site says that in this biotype, "There should be little surface current. " The output from my Fluval 204 is, at present, being expelled through a nozzle that came with the filter at just about surface level. This is creating some surface turbulance and I can see that there are also some minor currents in the lower parts of the tank as well. Is there any good way to reduce the "blast effect" of the filter? Thanks for the great tips so far!

Another idea is to change to the spraybar, and have it pointed at an angle towards the glass, pointed slightly down. That will help reflect some of the current and spread it over a wider area, rather than a jet effect.

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

Substrate is rarely biotype approved, at least if you want to start growing right away.

Floridadriftwood.com sells some asian driftwood (thos it looks a lot like malaysian to me) and it's very pricey.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=8103&N=2004+113714

Malaysian is on sale ATM. They are pretty good place to deal with. Even tho they "lost" my order twice... (never shipped). But that doesn't discredit them enough for me to care.

 

[kyouens]

Thanks for the tips on the driftwood. I'll probably just end up getting some African wood since everywhere I look it's cheaper and the pieces look cooler

Today, I made a DIY CO2 generator out of a 64 ounce ketchup bottle, a check valve, and part of a Bic pen. It's working great (bubbles are pouring out. . .. .too many???) and I didn't have to use any silicon aquarium sealant, etc. Cool. Right now, I just bought an airstone but eventually I may get a bubble ladder or something.

I have another couple of questions, too. The few Vals, Rotala, and Java ferns I have in the tank before my big plant purchase are looking kind of sick today. The leaves are become translucent at the tips and in spots are turning brown The pH of my water is quite high, around 8.2 using my Freshwater Master Test Kit, and I'm worried that the alkalinity may be killing my plants. My gourami seems to be doing fine. He's swimming around like mad. I'm guessing that I may get a small decrease in pH after increasing the CO2, so I'll see what that does.

Also, I have what is probably a stupid question. On my Fluval 204, how will I eventually go about cleaning the filter? Do you just disconnect the intake and let it spit all the water in the canister out into the tank, then disconnect and clean it? Or is there a special way to do it. I'd rather decrease the hugeness of the mess I'll inevitably make, since my tank is in the living room Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

the 204, you unplug it, lift grey lever #1, then lift blue lever number 2, remove the intake/output hose assembly, carry it over to the sink, and open it up. replace/rinse what media you need to, then top up the water in it, put the top back on and hook it back up.

As for the browning leaves, have you got any load in there? if not have you fertalized the tank water?

 

[kyouens]

I fertilized the tank water with Fourish Excel for a few days, but not today since I just set up the CO2. I'm not sure what you mean by "load". I have one fish and five or six plants. The tank isn't yet cycled. Thanks for the help.

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

No probs, Excel isn't a fertalizer, it's a carbon substitute.

Fertalizers for 2 major nutrients are needed. Nitrate/Nitrogen and Potassium. there are also trace elements, but I doubt you have a shortage of anything but possibly iron ATM.

If you measure Nitrates and they are @ 0, then adding Seachems nitrogen (KNO3/Potassium nitrate) to get your levels up to at least 5PPM, preferably 10PPM would be a good thing. and it takes care of potassium and nitrate at the same time.

I meant bioload (fish waste), but you won't have any really.

 

[kyouens]

D'Oh! I checked my pH today after letting my CO2 run all night and it dropped from 8.2 to 6.8! Seems quite effective for a DIY system with no CO2 reactor. . . . At the same time I added the CO2 I adjusted the filter return so it didn't make a splashing sound / agitate the water, and I think the net effect was to have my CO2 go way up and my O2 go down. My plants have perked up considerably. The ugly downside is that my gourami is looking kind of sick, sucking air at the top of the water After I saw that he was hurting, I returned the nozzle to where it was (resumed agitating the water surface) and opened the top of my tank to encourage diffusion of oxygen into the water.

I don't own an air pump, but I think tomorrow I'm going to drop by Petco and pick one up. Then I'll just let the CO2 and the O2 run continuously.