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05-17-2007, 08:35 AM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 487
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New Aquascape Design - Opinions wanted
So i am reaquascaping my tank since i am about to finish up my DIY canopy and my XP3 is set up and ready to take over the filtering duties.
my current problem is the sides of my tank dont appear to get much light and some of my plants are shading out the hi light plants causing them not to grow so well. I hope my new canopy will better distribute the light.
here is my plan for the layout.
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/adubinsk...Aquascape2.ppt
I put it in a powerpoint file so you all can move things around and adjust it if you like. Here is a picture for people who just wanna look at it.
The driftwood on the left is a medium sized, vertical branchy piece while the middle driftwood is more of an arch.
TIA,
jimmy
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05-17-2007, 08:57 AM
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#2
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 2,294
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where are you filter intake and output going to be?
a possible couple problems i can see from my experience...
1. depending on how often you are going to trim the stargrass, i think it will quicly grow to hid the center wood. i have seen stargrass called a forground plants, but IME it grows tall very fast.
2. i would worry about both the vals and the ludwigia shading the glosso, plus IME the vals will shoot out runners and spread across your tank in little time.
this can be made to work IMO, if you are ready to put in the effort to trim and keep things in check constantly...
I am not that dedicated
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Just because I am working at Petco does not mean I am a sell out, they are still an evil empire, that I am trying to make better.
75 Gallon: New World Cichlids|26 Gallon Bowfront: Planted Angelfish/Swordtail Tank|20 Gallon Long: "Nano" non-reef|10 Gallon: frog and mosquito fish
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05-17-2007, 09:38 AM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 274
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Without seeing the hard elements, it is tough to say for certain, but I see a potential for problems related to the symmetry of the layout. The visual focal point (usually the high point of the dominant visual feature) should be about 1/3 of the way in from either side. With 3 hard elements evenly distributed, you may not have a clear focal point. Cinsider, for example, grouping the DW elements together on the left and having the rock turned toward them or "pointing" in their direction.
Another option - leave the hardscape out, put the dominant plant off center and go Dutch, arranging other plants around the visually dominant one (probably the Alternanthera if you have enough light).
I'd also try to vary leaf shapes & colors as you go from plant to plant (eg: I'd avoid putting any red Lud. or Rotala species near the Alternanthera).
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Thanks,
Squawkbert
WWIIOL Veteran
Tanks:1 MiniBow 5g, Coralife 10W Colormax, 3 Harlequin Rasboras, Amano shrimp, pond snails, Jungle Val, Bacopa, C. wendtii
46 bowfront:
3 Cardinals, 5 Black Neons, 4 Black Phantoms, 2 Serpae/Minor, 2 C. aeneus, C. trilineatus, 2 black Mollies, 4 Otos, 6 Pristellas, P. Scalare
Cryptocoryne wendtii, Java Fern, Val, Bacopa caroliniana, Anubias, Bolbitis, A. reineckii rosefolia, 5g RCS tank
5g RCS/java moss, Najas guadalupensis... tank
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05-17-2007, 09:46 AM
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#4
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NE ohio
Posts: 2,245
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With those plant species, you are going to have to trim the tank twice a week. The Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig', Limnophila sessiliflora, and Hygrophila difformis, and are very fast growers. IMO you need to look for other plants to fill those spots.
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05-17-2007, 09:57 AM
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#5
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 487
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Thanks for the suggestions. Here are some pics of the hardscaping so you can get an idea of what they look like.
Center driftwood
Left Driftwood
Carved Rock
Everyone talks about star grass, and other being fast growers but currently the only plants i have been able to get to grow fast are the wisteria and the tropic sunset (hygro). I am happy with things otherwise as i am not getting much algae anymore. I does EI and according to my tests, i dont need to adjust from what Tom Barr recommends, although i could use more iron. I now also keep my CO2 consistently at 45 ppm. I still am not getting explosive growth or pearling. I run 260 CF watts over my 55 Gallon. Two bulbs are 6 months old, 2 bulbs are 2 months old.
I would appreciate it anyone would tweek my PPT file i attached to better arrange things.
Thanks,
jimmy
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05-17-2007, 01:24 PM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NE ohio
Posts: 2,245
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With that much light and CO2, your aquarium should look like a freshly opened can of soda in the middle to late time frame in the photo period. I run less light (220 watts of T-8 ) over a 75 gallon tank and that is what mine looks like.
Do you dose straight EI or do you just measure and dose?
What are you using to measure the CO2?
I know this isn't part of your question, but I think you may be lacking some ferts somewhere. Your plants should be growing very fast under your current conditions.
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05-17-2007, 02:27 PM
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#7
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 487
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I have been wondering where my explosive growth is.
I more or less dose EI blindly. i was testing for a while when istarted my tank and everything was good, but i had less plants then. Maybe i should start testing again and re-adjusting.
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