New To the Hobby and Need Guidance.

[BettaDave]

Hello everyone,

I'm starting my first aquarium in well over a decade and as I was a child the last time I had a tank this is my first "serious" setup. I'm doing a planted tank (using eco-complete substrate) as I want to have a more natural setup that maintains itself to a large degree aside from water changes and the occasional issues with water (ph level changes, etc.). I bought random plants for my first tank which is a fluval spec 5 for a single butterfly betta. I bought a "Eco-Bio Stone" to help start colonizing beneficial bacteria (if anyone has used this product please let me know your results) and I'm using the stock lighting (7500k LED) and stock filtration for the moment. The plants I have are:

Needle leaf Rotala
(Rotala Wallichii)

Betta Plant
( Cryptocoryne Wendtii "green")

Rosette Sword
(Echinodorus Parviflorus)

Wisteria
(Hygrophila Difformis)

Malaysian Red
(Microsorium Pteropus)

I have many questions about this since this is my first setup. First I'm curious what I should use to help the bacteria flourish during the nitrogen cycle process and if I should use the included activated charcoal while attempting the nitrogen cycle?

Second, do I need CO2 for these particular plants and if so what's the best "cheapest" manner in which to provide that as I'm a student so I don't have a large budget.

Third, which species of fish/inverts (for tank maintenance) work best with a betta as I know they are very aggressive to basically anything that moves in their territory.

If there's any other helpful tips/advice you feel like sharing it would be appreciated. I currently have my Betta in a smaller tank which in the future will be used as a "hospital tank" until my fluval setup runs through the nitrogen cycle.
​

 

[Delapool]

Hi,

Welcome to the forum Was wondering what size is the new tank and how you are providing an ammonia source to cycle the tank (it sounded fishless?) Just in case useful below.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html

For CO2, you could try DIY CO2 or a glutaraldehyde product like below.

Seachem. Flourish Excel

 

[BettaDave]

Thanks for the information Delapool . I will check out that guide for cycling. Actually that was part of my question for cycling which was how to feed the bacteria with ammonia since I didn't want to risk the health of my fish.

It is a 5 gallon tank made by fluval called the fluval spec 5.

I did happen to have one more question for the moment as to lighting for plants. How do I figure out how many hours a day to leave my lights on? All I know is the stock lighting is 7500k LED.

 

[ImACoolguy]

Thanks for the information Delapool . I will check out that guide for cycling. Actually that was part of my question for cycling which was how to feed the bacteria with ammonia since I didn't want to risk the health of my fish.



It is a 5 gallon tank made by fluval called the fluval spec 5.



I did happen to have one more question for the moment as to lighting for plants. How do I figure out how many hours a day to leave my lights on? All I know is the stock lighting is 7500k LED.

Fish in cycling- fish are the ammonia source.

Fishless cycling- you can use table shrimp, fish food, or even bottled ammonia(10%) from the hardware store

Lighting- don't exceed 8 hours a day. Have a break in the middle also helps control algae.


Caleb

 

[BettaDave]

Thanks Caleb!

 

[ImACoolguy]

Just be aware with fish in cycling you will be doing water changes almost daily to keep levels safe for fish.


Caleb

 

[Delapool]

On something to go with a betta I've been thinking on as well. I have a bare bottom 5 gal which makes cleaning easier. One short fin betta in there.

I've been looking for an algae eater and bottom feeder to get anything the betta misses.

Currently I have a few Malaysian Trumpet Snails in there (free from shop!). Just reading that their population can explode otherwise I think these would be good. I have/had these in the main tank with no issues but the loaches may have got them. Possibly also sensitive to glut.

http://www.planetinverts.com/malaysian_trumpet_snail.html

Tried a mystery snail but they poop too much. Also tempted to try a ramshorn snail. However my plants are all floating leftovers from main tank and with the bare bottom tank it is easy to get rid of snails back to main tank if I need to.

 

[dulcisveteranus]

Delapool, You can get ghost shrimp. I used to have them in my betta tank. They love betta pellets. They even eat some fish waste sometimes. BettaDave, When you said charcoal by that i think you mean carbon. Never use carbon. It is not necessary and it takes away the ammonia and leaves the bacteria starving. Only use carbon to get rid of meds. Beneficial bacteria is more than enough to keep the tank clean.

 

[Skai]

I agree with what was said about the carbon, I almost never have carbon in my filters. I just use the space for more mechanical filtration or for more biomedia. As for the CO2 I think on the size tank you're talking it would be overkill I would just go with the Seachem Excel. Betas can be either fairly agreeable or really grumpy. I've heard of plenty of people keeping Betas with other fish (so long as it's not another male Beta, of course). I think you won't know for certain if yours will tolerate others until you put others in there with him but then that's the way with most fish.

 

[dulcisveteranus]

Also you could use Biospira to cycle the tank overnight. Its the only thing that works and has real beneficial bacteria. API stress zhyme and Tetra Safe start are all bullsh*t. Also keeping the light less than 8 hours can cause diatoms. Ive had my experience with diatoms and they were a nightmare! All my plants were brown! Ive tried everything, Blackouts, silicate removers, RO water, tri weekly water changes, snails, you name it. It was difficult to scrub them off my plants without damaging them. There was only one choice left and that was to get otocicnlus catfish. Ive always told myself to never get ottos because they always die. On youtube, on forums, in the stores, but it was a last resort. I got 6 ottos from a private store called petclub. I acclimated them to my tank for an hour. They were pretty stressed and it was putting my hopes down. Theres a saying among the fish tank community and that is, "If you want 6 ottos then you better get 12." I checked the tank in the morning and I saw several leaves on my plants were mostly green. I looked for the ottos. They were well hidden inside the wisteria and the amazon sword. There bellies were fat and full of diatoms. I counted all 6 no casualties. I was so relieved. In two weeks all the diatoms were history and my plants had the beautiful lush green color again. And that is why no one should ever get diatoms because they are a pain in the a**. Sorry for talking too much. I just wanted to emphasize how diatoms suck.

 

[dulcisveteranus]

Pygmy cories can be kept with bettas. Id say around 3-4 of them in a 5 gallon. They are fairly small and very fast so bettas wont catch them. Unfortunately they arent that colorful. Sometimes fancy guppies can be kept with bettas depending on their behavior. A lot of plants are good and judging from your selection it is a cool combination of plants. Endlers are pretty cool. I see a couple at petsmart sometimes for 3 bucks each.

 

[dulcisveteranus]

Microsorum pteropus or malaysian red, is commonly known as java fern in the fish tank community. Im only making assumptions here but i think you got some of these plants in the bottles they sell At petco or petsmart. Dont get me wrong there is nothing wrong witth the bottled plants as I have a two huge mother amazon swords producing many runners, they came from those bottles. Using Petco petsmart or walmart are very unreliable sources to purchase fish and fish related products except for things like driftwood, meds, decoration, salt and electronics such as filters and lights. Food like tetra and aqueon are horrible. It contains a high amount of ash content which is the aftermath of the burnt food which is still in the product. You dont want to be giving your fish burnt food. Products like hikari, omega one, pisces pros, rephasy, southern delight, new life spectrum have a lot less ash content. I suggest you get spirulina pellets from pisces pros hbh. All of my fish love them. Spirulina even has a higher protein ratio than real meat. I suggest you make a java moss carpet. You can get a handful size of it for five bucks on ebay. It is a fast grower It will take over you tank. It will also absorb most of the nitrates. You can also get a pearlweed (Hemianthus Micranthenmnoides) carpet. It is a fast grower, does not need added co2, or dirt. Also using baking soda will raise ph. Id say around 1/3 a teaspoon to raise .5 in a 5 gallon. Using driftwood or peat moss will also naturally lower ph. You can also use dead plant matter to lower ph as it releases humic acid into the water. I think rotala needs added co2. You can make a co2 system for about 8 bucks. You need airline tubing, a two liter bottle, sugar, yeast, water, optional - baking soda and molasses. There are better instructions on the internet.

 

[keegster803]

Pygmy cories can be kept with bettas. Id say around 3-4 of them in a 5 gallon. They are fairly small and very fast so bettas wont catch them. Unfortunately they arent that colorful. Sometimes fancy guppies can be kept with bettas depending on their behavior. A lot of plants are good and judging from your selection it is a cool combination of plants. Endlers are pretty cool. I see a couple at petsmart sometimes for 3 bucks each.

I wouldn't do guppies or endlers because normally the bright coloration on the fins will simulate another male betta in the tank. I'd do RCS in this tank, they are colorful and help get algae off the plants.


Sent via echolocation

 

[dulcisveteranus]

Also bettas dont need an airstone as they are labyrinth fish, they have an organ that allows them to breath at the suface of the water like how our lungs work. Bettas well be just as healthy and happy without an airstone. Snails also dont need an airstone. However shrimp and other fish do need them. Make sure you dont have a strong current in your tank as bettas like stagnant to slight current water. Your plants will grow better if you use API root tabs. They work great. Also do you have a heater? Sorry for talking much. I like informing others.

 

[ImACoolguy]

Also bettas dont need an airstone as they are labyrinth fish, they have an organ that allows them to breath at the suface of the water like how our lungs work. Bettas well be just as healthy and happy withiut an airstone. Snails also dont need an airstone. However shrimp and other fish do need them. Make sure you dont have a strong current in your tank as bettas like stagnant to slight current water. Your plants will grow better if you use API root tabs. They work great. Also do you have a heater?

No fish really "needs" an air stone. It's purely cosmetic or used in times of power outages to keep the water oxygenated.

Many times a filter provides enough surface agitation alone to oxygenate the water without the need for an airstone.

I've kept everything from puffers, to discus, to cichlids, to shrimp(as of today ) never needed an airstone unless to gas off co2 in a planted tank or the reasons above.


Caleb

 

[dulcisveteranus]

No fish really "needs" an air stone. It's purely cosmetic or used in times of power outages to keep the water oxygenated.

Many times a filter provides enough surface agitation alone to oxygenate the water without the need for an airstone.

I've kept everything from puffers, to discus, to cichlids, to shrimp(as of today ) never needed an airstone unless to gas off co2 in a planted tank or the reasons above.

Caleb

That is true, but the pre-installed filters in the fluval spec provide little surface agitation and therefore it would be necessary to add one for other fish.

 

[Delapool]

Delapool, You can get ghost shrimp. I used to have them in my betta tank. They love betta pellets. They even eat some fish waste sometimes. BettaDave, When you said charcoal by that i think you mean carbon. Never use carbon. It is not necessary and it takes away the ammonia and leaves the bacteria starving. Only use carbon to get rid of meds. Beneficial bacteria is more than enough to keep the tank clean.

Thanks for the reply. I've thought about shrimp but they aren't sold at the shops here very often. Still good idea, I'll have to look into it. This one has hunted down decent size Molly fry but seems to be settling down. He did try flaring at the mystery snail but gave up (possibly in disgust).

Carbon to my knowledge won't remove ammonia (otherwise it would be suggested as such). Always open to new information though.

 

[keegster803]

That is true, but the pre-installed filters in the fluval spec provide little surface agitation and therefore it would be necessary to add one for other fish.

I use that filter to power my nano reef, that definitely provides ample flow to the tank, I'm assuming this is the fluval spec V.


Sent via echolocation

 

[BettaDave]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. My only remaining question is now I have my tank set up. It's my first setup so it's not the most spectacular looking lol. But I've been trying to find the right speed for my pump to where I can create surface aggitation without it being too much current for my Betta. I have already heard with this particular pump (stock pump that came with the fluval spec 5 tank) that even at its lowest setting it can be a bit strong for a Betta so later on I may have to add a pre-filter over the output to tame it a bit. Back to my question though.... I am using the pump to create surface aggitation as I stated already and I have a short video if the site will allow me to post it this time to see if you guys think it's strong enough to oxygenate the water for my bacteria during the nitrogen cycle? Thanks for any feedback!

 

[Fishperson]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. My only remaining question is now I have my tank set up. It's my first setup so it's not the most spectacular looking lol. But I've been trying to find the right speed for my pump to where I can create surface aggitation without it being too much current for my Betta. I have already heard with this particular pump (stock pump that came with the fluval spec 5 tank) that even at its lowest setting it can be a bit strong for a Betta so later on I may have to add a pre-filter over the output to tame it a bit. Back to my question though.... I am using the pump to create surface aggitation as I stated already and I have a short video if the site will allow me to post it this time to see if you guys think it's strong enough to oxygenate the water for my bacteria during the nitrogen cycle? Thanks for any feedback!

I'm not sure if you tried to post it already, but if you did, I don't see it.

In my experience BB (beneficial bacteria) colonization does not get effected that much by oxygenation in the water. Sure, it's nice, but you don't need to worry too much about it. If you have enough oxygen for your fish (which you almost certainly will) then you will have enough for your BB.

So, the most important thing is to get the flow right for your betta. Don't worry about the flow affecting the BB.

Make sure to test your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels frequently. Mostly ammonia and nitrite for now though. Ammonia and nitrite need to stay as low as possible; anything higher than .25 ppm or so is less than adequate for the fish. Nitrates generally should be below 30 ppm, although it depends on the fish. Luckily for you you have a small tank, so water changes should be easy.

Do you have a test kit? If so, what kind?