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Old 04-20-2006, 01:51 AM   #21
kaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tropicfishman
Don't forget your test kits if you don't have them yet. If you don't have them here's what you'll need: FW Nitrate, FW PH, FW Nitrite, FW ammonia, FW KH + GH, FW Phosphates.

You may wanna purchase some ammonia detoxifier of some kind, I prefer Kents, IT works great but smells horrible. some Clorine detoxifier and even some Tank clarifier for those times when the tank gets cloudy.

You may wanan go to walmart and pick up a few small cheap things like Filter cleaning brush's ( $3 ), an algea cleaning brush or magnet, A gravel cleaning sipon, assortment of nets, and a bottle of the spray on tank cleaner " safe and Easy " is awesome to have, you can clean the outside glass, hood, filter with it and removes anything from limebuild up to mold, really handy to have around. Thats just a few things I thought of that you may not have all together your looking at about 65 bucks, BTW if you order the test kits you can getthem alot cheaper than you can at a LFS, Thatpetplace.com has some good deals, I ordered all my test kits anda few other things for around 50 bucks including shipping, My LFS wanted 19 bucks just for the API ammonia test kit
thanks for all the good info, I do have a small test kit (liquid) of ammonia, ph, nitrates, nitrites. I also own a syphon vac, medium size net and some brushes but i will look into getting a magnet that floats and all the other productions you mention thanks,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonewolfblue
Quote:
Originally Posted by tropicfishman
You may wanna purchase some ammonia detoxifier of some kind, I prefer Kents, IT works great but smells horrible. some Clorine detoxifier and even some Tank clarifier for those times when the tank gets cloudy.
The only chemicals you need IMO is a dechlorinator like prime, and then if planted tank, your ferts. No other chems should enter the tank, IMO. IME, clarifiers don't work, and if you have plants, they will take up the ammonia for you, so no need for ammonia detoxifiers. They also will starve the good bacteria of the food source to keep the tank cycled.
the only chemicals I used is prime, should I use others?
keep in mind though that I will not purchase the light and plants until a few weeks later.
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Old 04-20-2006, 02:41 AM   #22
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an air pump is ESSENTIAL equipment in a planted tank. In mine, the plants take up so much o2 at night, I had one mass loss of some of my favorite fish due to what I believe to be hypoxia.

I always run an air pump and air stone at night now. No more such losses
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:28 AM   #23
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the only chemicals I used is prime, should I use others?
keep in mind though that I will not purchase the light and plants until a few weeks later.
Prime is all you need. The only "chemicals" you need are Prime, some meds depending on the situation, and some fertilizer once you get your plants. So yes, all you need is prime (and meds which you should already have for your old tank I assume).
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:35 AM   #24
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I only use prime .....at weekly water changes. Nothing else, but I have a Aquaclear 50 HOB plus my Xp2 instead of a air pump.

Just another option.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherry
an air pump is ESSENTIAL equipment in a planted tank. In mine, the plants take up so much o2 at night, I had one mass loss of some of my favorite fish due to what I believe to be hypoxia.

I always run an air pump and air stone at night now. No more such losses
I haven't had that problem myself. I run my CO2 24/7, and heavily planted. I also noticed, after my lights go out, my plants are still pearling at 1am, lol.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:57 AM   #26
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moved to planted tank forum
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:52 PM   #27
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i have a heavy fish load and every inch is planted.

I'm not the only one around here who runs air at night
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Old 04-20-2006, 02:31 PM   #28
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isnt the sound of the bubbles and machine to load for them?
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:26 PM   #29
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nope. remember, in the wild, many of these tropical fish live in shallow streams and lakes, with crashing waves and small rapids.

loud, sharp reports are more disturbing to fish's hearing (which is really more like vibration detection) than a steady sound that doesn't change in volume or pitch (like pump motors, air pumps, bubble wands, etc)
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:24 PM   #30
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You can save money by replacing Eco with Turface or Profile (both are a sports clay used for pitchers mounds and sandtraps respectively)

Also, the light can be replaced for a 48" dual fixture from homedepot (10-20$) typically shoplights are the lower cost solution that is preferred.
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