PH, GH, KH and CO2

[RobbyDoom]

So if my PH is 7.4 - 7.6, my KH is 125.3 ppm, my GH is 237.7 ppm and I'm running CO2; do the high values hinder the amount of CO2 taken into the aquarium?
I've taken a look at the CO2 chart and it shows that my CO2 levels are between 16-13 ppm or less. (I have a drop checker on the way)
The reason I ask is, because I have the bubbles set to 1 bubble per second, which is quite a good bps, from what I've seen on other set ups.
So I guess my question is, is it safe to up the CO2 or will this off set something else?
I don't want to mess around so much with the PH, as I've read that it's better to keep a stable PH, if the fish are doing well. Plus, I'm not sure about adding peat filtration, as I'd like my water to still be crystal clear. Unless small amounts won't effect water colour and if the PH with still have stability with peat.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[aqua_chem]

So if my PH is 7.4 - 7.6, my KH is 125.3 ppm, my GH is 237.7 ppm and I'm running CO2; do the high values hinder the amount of CO2 taken into the aquarium?

No. CO2 will dissolve largely independent of other parameters with the exception of temp.

I've taken a look at the CO2 chart and it shows that my CO2 levels are between 16-13 ppm or less. (I have a drop checker on the way)
The reason I ask is, because I have the bubbles set to 1 bubble per second, which is quite a good bps, from what I've seen on other set ups.
So I guess my question is, is it safe to up the CO2 or will this off set something else?

BPS isn't really a good measurement between tanks, my BPS might be different that your BPS given different tanks, temps, line pressures, and bubble counter fluids. To really know where you're at here, we would need to know your diffusion method and tank size. Buying a drop checker is also enormously helpful.

Also, a quick word about the pH/KH/CO2 charts. They're a useful tool, but they're not ment to be particularly accurate. If you've got any additional buffers in the tank, such as from driftwood, they're going to be thrown off.

I don't want to mess around so much with the PH, as I've read that it's better to keep a stable PH, if the fish are doing well. Plus, I'm not sure about adding peat filtration, as I'd like my water to still be crystal clear. Unless small amounts won't effect water colour and if the PH with still have stability with peat.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Honestly, in my opinion, unless your pH is below 6 or above 8.6 or so, I wouldn't worry about it. People make a big deal about pH, but considering the pH swings that happen with CO2 anyways, it doesn't seem to be a very important factor in much of anything.

 

[RobbyDoom]

No. CO2 will dissolve largely independent of other parameters with the exception of temp..

Excellent! That give me a bit more insight.

BPS isn't really a good measurement between tanks, my BPS might be different that your BPS given different tanks, temps, line pressures, and bubble counter fluids. To really know where you're at here, we would need to know your diffusion method and tank size. Buying a drop checker is also enormously helpful..

I'm using a glass/ceramic diffuser and the aquarium is 29g. Although, I have large driftwood and 2" of substrate. So that would displace some water. I might be at just less than 29g.

Also, a quick word about the pH/KH/CO2 charts. They're a useful tool, but they're not ment to be particularly accurate. If you've got any additional buffers in the tank, such as from driftwood, they're going to be thrown off..

Yeah, I knew about that, but just wanted to see a rough estimate.

Honestly, in my opinion, unless your pH is below 6 or above 8.6 or so, I wouldn't worry about it. People make a big deal about pH, but considering the pH swings that happen with CO2 anyways, it doesn't seem to be a very important factor in much of anything.

That's what I figured. The fish are good as gold and I don't what to mess with the PH.

Talking about PH; if I were to top off my aquarium with distilled water, would that mess with the PH much? I'd only be adding maybe a litre to a half litre. I lose about a quarter inch of water a day. My assumption is that with that small amount it wouldn't do much at all, but I think my GH, KH, and PH are high because I'm using tap water w/ prime to top up daily. So the minerals are staying and the water is evaporating.

On another note: I have a glass of half distilled, half tap water set aside to test the buffers in my tap water. The PH 6.4 was and I'll test again tomorrow to see how the buffers work.

 

[RobbyDoom]

different tanks, temps, line pressures, and bubble counter fluids.

What other fluids are used?

 

[aqua_chem]

I'm using a glass/ceramic diffuser and the aquarium is 29g. Although, I have large driftwood and 2" of substrate. So that would displace some water. I might be at just less than 29g.

1 BPS isn't all that much given your setup. I highly recommend you get a drop checker so you can directly measure your CO2.

Talking about PH; if I were to top off my aquarium with distilled water, would that mess with the PH much? I'd only be adding maybe a litre to a half litre. I lose about a quarter inch of water a day. My assumption is that with that small amount it wouldn't do much at all, but I think my GH, KH, and PH are high because I'm using tap water w/ prime to top up daily. So the minerals are staying and the water is evaporating.

On another note: I have a glass of half distilled, half tap water set aside to test the buffers in my tap water. The PH 6.4 was and I'll test again tomorrow to see how the buffers work.

Distilled water works fine. You can definitely get an accumulation of minerals if you top off with tap water, but if you're doing reasonable water changes, you shouldn't get much accumulation. I've always just used tap water and called it good. I know SW people use RODI water for top offs, but our livestock is generally not as sensitive to parameters, and we don't need to mix up tap water. But, if you happen to have the RODI water available, go for it, it is the better option.

What other fluids are used?

I've seen water, mineral oil, glycerine, and vegetable oil used before. I do not recommend the latter.

 

[RobbyDoom]

1 BPS isn't all that much given your setup. I highly recommend you get a drop checker so you can directly measure your CO2.

I ordered a glass drop checker a couple of days ago, it should be here soon. I'll wait until it's in the aquarium before I up the CO2 level.

Distilled water works fine. You can definitely get an accumulation of minerals if you top off with tap water, but if you're doing reasonable water changes, you shouldn't get much accumulation. I've always just used tap water and called it good. I know SW people use RODI water for top offs, but our livestock is generally not as sensitive to parameters, and we don't need to mix up tap water. But, if you happen to have the RODI water available, go for it, it is the better option.

That's what I figured. My tap water is ferociously hard and of high PH.

I've seen water, mineral oil, glycerine, and vegetable oil used before. I do not recommend the latter.

Interesting. I'll stick with water.
What results do the other liquids heed? Do they differ from water in any satisfactory way?

 

[aqua_chem]

They more viscous, so the bubbles tend to move slower, making them easy to count, and they don't evaporate like water does. Vegetable oils sometimes get a little funky a they get old though, which is why I wouldn't recommend them.

 

[phin]

So if my PH is 7.4 - 7.6, my KH is 125.3 ppm, my GH is 237.7 ppm and I'm running CO2; do the high values hinder the amount of CO2 taken into the aquarium?...

...I don't want to mess around so much with the PH, as I've read that it's better to keep a stable PH, if the fish are doing well. Plus, I'm not sure about adding peat filtration, as I'd like my water to still be crystal clear. Unless small amounts won't effect water colour and if the PH with still have stability with peat.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

The more buffering capacity of your water, the more resistant the pH is to changes. KH of 125.3 is roughly 7 degrees. That should be sufficient enough to buffer the carbonic acid created with the injection of CO2. Adding peat will introduce addional acids to the tank, which will also influence the pH of your water, but with sufficient buffering capacity and minimal CO2 I imagine this, too, would have a minimal effect on pH.

If you are unable to increase your CO2 to more than 1bps (DIY or pressurized?) and your plants require more carbon, with a dKH of 7, the plants will actually "eat" the carbon from the carbonates & bicarbonates in your water, decreasing your KH, and in turn the buffering capacity of the water (assuming sufficient nutrient & lighting). Its good to monitor your KH. However I don't imagine that a sudden pH drop due to a loss of KH is very probable with regular water changes.