Planted Tank Help!

[mchisholm12]

Hello all,

I currently have a semi-planted 30 gallon tank that isn't anything special, I have just been doing it for fun, but I just purchased a 55 gallon and would really like to create a gorgeous planted aquarium but do not know where to start. I purchased plenty of eco-complete substrate for the tank, have a cascade 700 canister filter, and intend on buying led lighting (if that is advised). But I know there are a lot of particulars that go into a healthy tank and was looking for some advice from you experts. Any ideas?

 

[Mebbid]

Either LED lighting or t5ho lighting will suffice. I lean towards preferring the t5s for lighting a planted tank up but that's just personal preference. The LEDs are by far more cost efficient in comparison to the fluorescent lights.

Assuming you are going to shoot for a high light level you will need to choose whether you want to do fluid carbon such as excel or use pressurized co2. The excel is much cheaper than the pressurized co2 as well as being easier but it will only grow plants about 60% as fast as the co2. Either one can grow a highly successful planted tank so that's completely up to you.

Once you decide on your carbon source then it's time to decide on a fert dosing regimen. My favorite system for dosing ferts is the EI method which has you alternating between dosing the micro and macro nutrients for the tank. I would take a look at using dry ferts rather than the store bought liquid ferts.

Lastly there are root tabs which you will need to acquire for heavy root feeding plants such as swords and water wisteria.

 

[mchisholm12]

I actually have API Leaf Zone on hand as well as Seachem Flourish. Would my current substrate work, or would you recommend something better? I have used root tabs before, I was told to do that once a month, but I do not have a regular regimen on the liquid fertilizers. Yet you seem to recommend dry fertilizers, which I will happily look into. But I have read a lot about the importance of the CO2 system, and you mentioned it. How does the excel work?
Thank you so much, I just want to make sure I am doing things right rather than finding shortcuts.

 

[Mebbid]

Flourish and leaf zone are fine for lightly planted lower light tanks but they are severely lacking in macro nutrients that the plants will consume en masse in a higher light environment. Plants will consume a lot more nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous than they have in it.

Take a look t a dry fert package like this. They will last you a long long long time. Estimative Index | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums

Any substrate will grow plants so that's not an issue.

The excel is a complex form of carbon that plants can take up in absence of actual co2. Due to the absurd amounts of glut (excel) that most higher light tanks use I bought a bottle of metricide 14 day solution and dilute it by half with distilled water to make a solution that's approximately the same as excel.

I am personally using 20ml / day in my 55g planted tank. With a 500ml bottle excel costing at minimum $10 that bottle will last me about 25 days. The metricide on the other hand costing approx. $30 will last me about 2/3 of a year.

I also make my own root tabs due to cost and the fact that the API ones suck. Using size 00 gel capsules you can fill them with time release fertilizers and they will keep your plants growing for 2 - 3 months before you need to replace them. If you can find them the best fertilizers to use are either Osmocote + which is discontinued now or dynamite flowers and vegetables. I didn't have access to either of them so I mixed two different time release ferts and had amazing results from them compared to the api root tabs.

This is my whole root tab setup.

They cost me 2.7 cents each to make.

 

[Rivercats]

I have used both a 2 bulb T5HO Fixture and a Build My Led Fixture over my 55g planted and both give about equal results. But I used Geisemann bulbs in my T5HO which I think really gives excellent plant growth and color. Both give a good strong medium light with the BML fixture giving slightly higher light. I've been able to grow most anything and get good color from my non green plants.

If you use liquid carbon I suggest buying a gallon of Metricide 14 Day Solution online for about $27 shipped. You mix it at a 1:1 ratio with RO or Distilled water to get 2 gallons for that price which is very cheap compared to Excel or API CO2 Booster. When using liquid carbon you need to dose it higher in tanks with higher light, a lot of plants especially fast growing plants, and if you have a higher bio-load. With the above lighting you would need to dose it at 1ml of Glut to every 5 gallons of water to start. Then a few weeks down the road you can increase your dosing if needed to 1ml of Glut to every 2 gallons of water. I ran a 220g, 100% planted, very high light tank for well over a year using liquid carbon.

I also use dry ferts in all my tanks. It is much more economical in the long run compared to liquid ferts. Plus your plants get all the macro and micro nutrients they need which they don't with liquid ferts. I dose PPS-Pro which allows you to custom dose to the needs of your tank. El is using excess amounts of all macro and micro ferts so plants always have as much nutrients available as they need. Here's a good thread about dosing PPS-Pro but only read the opening post not all the comments after it.... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central. Root tabs are needed for heavy root feeders which are Swords, Crypts, and all bulb plants.

Eco Complete is fine to use. I use it in all my tanks.

 

[mchisholm12]

As I'm looking online for the products you've been recommending, I am finding the metricide as a sterilizing and medical disinfectant, is this what you are referring to to use as liquid carbon (of course after I dilute it with distilled water)?

When purchasing dry ferts, should I get both the PPS-Pro pack and the Estimative Index pack or just one or the other?

 

[mchisholm12]

And are there any test kits to test the water parameters and my carbon levels to keep things consistent?

 

[Rivercats]

Metricide 14 is glutaraldehyde 2.6%. Excel and API CO2 Booster both have Glut as their active ingredient and Excel is 1.5%. This is the liquid carbon source. When diluting the Metricide 14 at a 1:1 ratio with RO or Distilled water you get a solution that is slightly stronger than Excel.

As for what I use for testing.... I test for nitrates and phosphates weekly before my WC to see where they are after a week of dosing. This then allows me to see if I need to change my dosing of either or both for the next week. I also test for Kh, Gh, and Ph. A level of 4 for both Kh and Gh are good for a planted tank. Readings below that can cause problems. I don't test Ph often as Kh and Gh are more important IMO. There is nothing to test for liquid carbon levels BUT liquid carbon only stays in solution 12-24 hours before breaking down completely which is why you have to dose it daily.

I buy the El package and bought 3 dosing bottles separate. There is MgSO4, magnesium in the PPS-Pro package and unless you have soft water or a Gh less than 4 you don't need to use it. Most all tap water has plenty of magnesium in it.

 

[Mebbid]

And are there any test kits to test the water parameters and my carbon levels to keep things consistent?

The dosing methods such as ei have you add specific amounts of ferts in accounting for plant uptake. That along with a weekly 50% water change keeps things at safe levels. The only tests you should need are phosphate and nitrate for the fert dosing. I don't usually test for anything else but I have very very good tap water.

For the carbon, I usually rely on algae growth to tell me if I need more excel in my tank. If you are using pressurized co2 then there is a drop checker you can buy to help you dial in the correct amount.

 

[mchisholm12]

So I purchased the Metricide and it comes with a bottle of activator? I guess I need to pour the activator into the metricide to "activate" it. But I am not using it for its intended purpose, so do I still "activate" it or not? Thanks!

 

[Mebbid]

Nope, the activator gets tossed straight into the garbage. You don't want to use that.

 

[mchisholm12]

Here is how it is looking so far thanks to all your help!

 

[Molson_28]

I don't have a planted tank but I love the look of them and I plan on doing one some day. What are root tabs?

 

[Mebbid]

Oh, I'm not sure if anyone told you this but make sure to keep the glut mix in an opaque bottle. Light breaks it down.

 

[mchisholm12]

Shoot, I'll just keep it in a dark place until I find a suitable container. I intend on layering rocks to look like steppes on the right side of my tank with some java moss growing throughout. That is ideal at least!

 

[Rivercats]

The easiest way to use the Metricide 14 is to only mix a small amount up at a time. I have old empty Excel bottles I use. Just find a dark, opaque bottle and mix a 1:1 ratio of Glut with RO or Distilled water. That way the bulk of the Glut can remain in it's original container.

 

[Mebbid]

The easiest way to use the Metricide 14 is to only mix a small amount up at a time. I have old empty Excel bottles I use. Just find a dark, opaque bottle and mix a 1:1 ratio of Glut with RO or Distilled water. That way the bulk of the Glut can remain in it's original container.

+1 Personally, I prefer to use API bottles as they have a measuring cap to 1ml, 5ml, and 10ml