Plants turning yellow. Please Help

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kashif314

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Jan 9, 2017
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Yesterday trimmed my plants and all plants are fine except the very dense hemianthus micranthemoides (Pearl Grass) wall I have on back. Leaves look dead from bottom but from top they are fine and growing so rapidly that its like they will touch my room ceiling. I need to trim them very quickly.

What could be the reason for them turning yellow and specially from bottom but top parts are fine and healthy and as I mentioned growing very good.

Is it like some iron or potassium deficiency? What can I do make them greener again?

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This big patch looks very yellow and dead but in pictures don't look very yellow but in reality more yellow looking. Please help.

Thanks
 
There are a number of possibilities. It’s not quite as simple as narrowing it down to one specific nutrient.

I’m not quite sure what you are dosing or what the substrate is. If you are using ADA substrate you are likely experiencing a nitrogen deficiency or one of the other mobile macro elements. ADA focus quite heavily on adding potassium as part of the fert regime also which tells me that the substrate lacks potassium as many do.

It is unlikely to be iron as this is immobile and because the plant cannot move iron to the newer leaves deficiencies are more likely to be present in the newest leaves. Your new leaves are fine so id start off by looking at nitrogen or potassium first.

Because this tank was started on co2 gas, there may now be a carbon shortfall. Light and flow are other possibles as these are limited in thicker overgrown areas although I have seen cases on the contrary with healthy growth in all parts of the tank.

Go with NPK first and take it from there.
 
There are a number of possibilities. It’s not quite as simple as narrowing it down to one specific nutrient.

I’m not quite sure what you are dosing or what the substrate is. If you are using ADA substrate you are likely experiencing a nitrogen deficiency or one of the other mobile macro elements. ADA focus quite heavily on adding potassium as part of the fert regime also which tells me that the substrate lacks potassium as many do.

It is unlikely to be iron as this is immobile and because the plant cannot move iron to the newer leaves deficiencies are more likely to be present in the newest leaves. Your new leaves are fine so id start off by looking at nitrogen or potassium first.

Because this tank was started on co2 gas, there may now be a carbon shortfall. Light and flow are other possibles as these are limited in thicker overgrown areas although I have seen cases on the contrary with healthy growth in all parts of the tank.

Go with NPK first and take it from there.
Thanks a lot for the detailed reply. I am thinking its potassium since what I read is that its very very important for plants. I started dosing Seachem Potassium and Iron. I am thinking to dose potassium twice a week and iron once a week. I also will dose flourish comprehensive once a week. What you say if potassium twice a week is enough?
 
Well K+ is just as important as any other nutrient. They all have a role to play. I believe yellowing of leaves is a symptom of K+ deficiency too along with, magnesium, nitrogen, and possibly manganese.

Either way you are going to Have to get those scissors out, trim off the healthy tops and uproot all the dead stems being careful to remove as many dead leaves as possible. You can then replant the healthy stems. The deficiency may disappear if there is less plant tissue to feed.

Uprooting will cloudy the water and release some unwanted elements in to the water column so I would always recommend a water change a day or two after work like this.

Good luck
 
Well K+ is just as important as any other nutrient. They all have a role to play. I believe yellowing of leaves is a symptom of K+ deficiency too along with, magnesium, nitrogen, and possibly manganese.

Either way you are going to Have to get those scissors out, trim off the healthy tops and uproot all the dead stems being careful to remove as many dead leaves as possible. You can then replant the healthy stems. The deficiency may disappear if there is less plant tissue to feed.

Uprooting will cloudy the water and release some unwanted elements in to the water column so I would always recommend a water change a day or two after work like this.

Good luck
Thanks. I am avoiding N and P because according to what I read that plants don't require much N and P and Flourish comprehensive already have both included in it so I am mainly concentrating on potassium as plants need potassium more. I am dosing K every other day and will see how plants respond. Otherwise will re plant but I checked from bottom and top and they are fine. Only that particular patch. I may trim out that particular yellow patch too but first I will see for few days if potassium and iron and Flourish dosing helps or not. Also what I read is that hemianthus micranthemoides require co2 when planted to grow good but later it can be maintained with liquid carbon too.
 
Thanks. I am avoiding N and P because according to what I read that plants don't require much N and P and Flourish comprehensive already have both included in it so I am mainly concentrating on potassium as plants need potassium more. I am dosing K every other day and will see how plants respond. Otherwise will re plant but I checked from bottom and top and they are fine. Only that particular patch. I may trim out that particular yellow patch too but first I will see for few days if potassium and iron and Flourish dosing helps or not. Also what I read is that hemianthus micranthemoides require co2 when planted to grow good but later it can be maintained with liquid carbon too.


You are right to be concerned about a possible K+ deficiency, however, most scientific literature shows that plants require more N than both K and P with K being required in larger amounts than P.

All plant are different though and their uptake rates will vary. If you are using ADA it is unlikely to be a micronutrient deficiency. The soil is also well known to supply ample amounts of N for a good length of time before eventually slowing down so definitely don’t discount N.

See how you get on with K+.

If it is just one patch and not the lower leaves on the entire back wall this could indicate a flow issue in that particular area.

As for HC, I’ve never had this plant but you may be right. People have grown it with low light and there are cases of growing it without any co2 at all. Excel will probably be fine.
 
Is there enough light getting to the lower leaves? Looks to me like they are just "too thick" and exhausted for light AND nutrients.
 
lower level leafs in a densley planted area like yours will usually be devoid of light as well as water flow, Those leafs are older now so they were probably turning yelow and you exposed them with a trim.


The new growth looks lush and green then I would lean towards a combination of too dense and restricted water flow.


I would try growing some tops and replanting them and giving yourself some spaces in your back wall for light penetration and water flow..


As for nitrogen.. If you have a test kit I owuld test your nitrates and see where you are.. A decently planted aquarium should hold somewhere between 20 - 40 ppm in nitrates (subjective to light intensity as higher nitrates with lower light is less necessary, where higher light and lower nitrates would cause a deficiency). If you are seeing 5 - 10 ppm in nitrates a few days after a water change then nitrates might be low and a concern to look at.. Potassium is of course equally important , it doesn't hurt to ensure you have what you need as a little excess K doesn't seem cause much problems in a tank so a little extra shouoldn't hurt...
 
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Thanks a lot for the detailed replies guys. Highly appreciated. I do have ADA Amazonia and tank is only like six months old so I believe my nitrogen levels will be ok. I will however check my Nitrates level today. I do have the kit buy maybe I am lazy. I think main problem is light as plants are very dense. However I noticed a little improvement today. I have been dosing Iron and Potassium every other day and Flourish comprehensive once a week as it also have necessary nutrients like phosphorus, nitrogen etc. I hope my experiment works. I will update this thread with new pictures if and when dead leaves revive
 
Thanks a lot for the detailed replies guys. Highly appreciated. I do have ADA Amazonia and tank is only like six months old so I believe my nitrogen levels will be ok. I will however check my Nitrates level today. I do have the kit buy maybe I am lazy. I think main problem is light as plants are very dense. However I noticed a little improvement today. I have been dosing Iron and Potassium every other day and Flourish comprehensive once a week as it also have necessary nutrients like phosphorus, nitrogen etc. I hope my experiment works. I will update this thread with new pictures if and when dead leaves revive

Even with all nutrient levels above plant needs, without enough light getting to lower leaves the plants will more than likely shed them. You'll notice roots from the stem where the plant shed leaves.
 
Even with all nutrient levels above plant needs, without enough light getting to lower leaves the plants will more than likely shed them. You'll notice roots from the stem where the plant shed leaves.
Yes I understand. I think problem is that my light was on medium setting for like over a week. I thought it malfunctioned but it was a setting. I re did it to full high intensity. Now I see difference in that patch.
 
Before dosing fertilizers and not very high lights.

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NOW AFTER dosing fertz and light on full setting

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So difference is there. Hope they revive back as they were.
 
Yes I understand. I think problem is that my light was on medium setting for like over a week. I thought it malfunctioned but it was a setting. I re did it to full high intensity. Now I see difference in that patch.

You can blast that patch with all the light in the world, but if not enough is reaching the lower leavers they will eventually fall off, and roots will shoot out searching for substrate. Some like this look, others don't.
 
Do be honest the best thing to do is replant them like cal said. If the leafs are already yellow then they won’t go back to green as they are already dead/dying. Just trim all the tops off and replant the tops [emoji106]
 
You can blast that patch with all the light in the world, but if not enough is reaching the lower leavers they will eventually fall off, and roots will shoot out searching for substrate. Some like this look, others don't.

Do be honest the best thing to do is replant them like cal said. If the leafs are already yellow then they won’t go back to green as they are already dead/dying. Just trim all the tops off and replant the tops [emoji106]
Thanks a lot guys but as I said I was noticing a change in leaves color. So I waited. Now all plants are back to how they were after like ten days of dosing Flourish comprehensive once a week, Seachem Potassium every other day and Seachem Iron twice a week along with Seachem Flourish Excel daily as co2 substitute.

Before:

IMG-20171126-WA0015.jpg

After:

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I trimmed today and noticed all leaves deep inside dense places and all leaves looking very nice dark green. Actually it was my mistake to stopped fertz because of Taiwan Bees. Now after resuming fertz they are back to normal.

Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
 
I am also surprised. It could just be a band-aide fix for the time being, but as long as its working keep doing it. Just make sure you aren't over dosing a fert that isn't helping. I think eventually the plant mass will get too big and you will have to cut it back, but for now it looks good!
 
Looks awesome. Must have been one of the mobile elements. K+ perhaps.
Yes I also thought that. I am very new and what I read is that potassium is very important in all macro fertz. Also the soil I have is ADA and as you told me they lack potassium so I think dosing that helps. Thanks a lot for the support.
Does look good - was surprised, I didn’t think they would get back a good colour.
Yes I wasn't expecting too. Now looking more greener than I posted picture above. So all seems good. Thanks a lot for the support.
I am also surprised. It could just be a band-aide fix for the time being, but as long as its working keep doing it. Just make sure you aren't over dosing a fert that isn't helping. I think eventually the plant mass will get too big and you will have to cut it back, but for now it looks good!
I am not overdosing. In fact I was underdosing and that's why this problem arouse. I use Flourish as a base fertilizer once a week only and from now on will use potassium twice and iron once only as flourish contains little iron already. Phosphorus and Nitrogen I will start after like two months. Tank is only like six months old. Thanks a lot for the support.
 
Yes I also thought that. I am very new and what I read is that potassium is very important in all macro fertz. Also the soil I have is ADA and as you told me they lack potassium so I think dosing that helps. Thanks a lot for the support.


Well, long before I got back in to the game a guy named Tobi Coring (founder of aquarebel fertilisers) had ADA soils tested at a lab in Germany.

So if these results are correct, I also have confirmation

http://aquascaping.flowgrow.de/aquascaping/naehrstoffe/item/111-ada-aqua-soil-analyse

**website may need google translation**

That’s why ADA use Brighty K.

In the link Tobi recommends K is kept at 3ppm at all times. I calculated your dosing using Rotala butterfly and it would seem you are close to this assuming there is no build up. My thoughts are that if K was culprit then the plants are indeed using lots of K.

I notice when using EI things can turn sour after a while of good growth. It normally takes several 50% water changes using RO water to bring K levels to a readable level on my test kit (requires calibration) I don’t know if high K is the reason for poor growth but in terrestrial plants High K can interfere with both calcium and magnesium uptake. It’s amazing just how quickly K can accumulate dosing potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate.

I wouldn’t dose N or P unless plants are showing signs of deficiency.
 
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