question about algae on plants

[BEANS]

My plants all have a little layer (not covered) but some algae on them and some on the roots. My question is the algae going to eat up all the beneficial substances? I put some Iron / pot. mixture in there some times to help the plants but if the algae is on some of the roots is it even getting to them, and is it hindering the leafs from getting enough light?

thanks for any help.

 

[fort384]

Beans,

What kind of algae are we talking about? Some algae is normal, but you want to keep it under control as best as possible.

There are a lot of reasons for algae growth in a planted tank... photo period, type of light, intensity/spectrum temperature of light, sunlight, a nutrient imbalance, an excess of feeding, lack of CO2, etc etc. If you ID the type ( a pic would help), someone can get a little closer to diagnosing the problem.

For now, the first questions I would have are how long a day are you lighting the tank and with what kind of light, and what are your nitrates reading?

 

[BEANS]

I'll try to take a pic of it today. I am running 175w Compact Flourescent lighting about 12+ hours a day. I am not sure about the water I'll have to buy a test kit and check it tomorrow. The tank isn't really exposed to too much natural sunlight so I don't think it is that. I'm only feeding my cichlids about once a day so I dont think its too much excess fish food. But I am not sure about the other possibilities so Ill have to take some pictures and get a test kit. thanks for the info fort.

 

[BEANS]

Blue-Green Algae
even though it's commonly called blue-green algae (BGA), it's not classified anymore as one. This "algae" is actually cyanobacteria, a form of life that has both animal and plant characteristics. It forms slimy, blue-green, sheets that will cover everything in a short time and give off a strong, characteristic scent. If left to over-run the tank, cyanobacteria may kill plants and even fish. It doesn't stick and can be easily removed manually, but will return quickly if the underlying water quality issue is not fixed. It can be treated with Erythromycin and other antibiotics, but this method should be done carefully since it might affect the nitrifying bacteria in the gravel and filter, and improper use of antibiotics always brings the risk of developing a more resistant strain. When the BGA gets killed by the algaecide it will start to rot and through that process it will reduce Oxygen levels in the tank. Since the nitrifying bacteria needs O2 to transfer ammonia/nitrites into nitrates the nitrifying process will slow down. If algaecide is used, make sure to test the ammonia/nitrite levels. Remove all the visible algae to prevent it from rotting in side the tank.

Some aquarists use the black-out method previously described, where black bags are wrapped around the tank for 4 days and held in complete darkness. It is advisable to raise NO3 levels to 10-20 ppm before starting the black-out period. Manually remove as much BGA as you can before the blackout, and dead matter after the blackout.Egeria densa (Elodea) and Ceratophyllum demersum are good plants to have in a tank, since these plants are known to secrete natural antibiotic substances that can help prevent BGA. Establishing lots of healthy, fast-growing plants from the day you start the tank, dosing the nitrate levels to maintain 10-20 ppm, and vacuuming the gravel to keep the tank free of decaying matter is the best way to prevent this "algae". BGA can be found in aquariums with very low nitrates because it can fix atmospheric nitrogen. BGA seems not to like high CO2 levels and stronger water currents.
Photo credit: Dusko Bojic
Note: The second photo is photographed macro. The BGA are tiny threads that will in short time form a slime sheet.

I think this is what it is. It isnt covering my plants like the large leaf in the middle but more like the other plants in the pic with it just around the edges of the plant. Ill try to get a pic of my tank later though. so to get rid of it should I buy some co2 tabs and turn up my power head? the article says this might help. also it sounds like It is caused by too much excess waste in the tank?

 

[fort384]

I wouldn't recommend CO2 tabs.

If it is BGA, I would remove as much as possible manually, reduce your lighting (12 hours is too much, 8-9 hours would be sufficient), and crank up your flow.

My guess is your nitrate or phosphate levels are out of wack, so you may have to get that corrected in order to keep it from coming back.

Erythromycin treatment is very effective, but should only be used to eradicate it once other methods have failed.

 

[BEANS]

hey thanks fort, if it comes down to Erythromycin treatment could this hurt my fish or plants? Im gonna try manually cleaning it all, less light and test my water today but just incase it comes back quickly I was considering the Erythromycin.

 

[fort384]

BEANS, I have used it. It definitely works. I saw no adverse effects in my fish, plants, or biological filter. However, you want to make sure you are treating the underlying problem too, not just the symptoms.

There are reported cases of it affecting your bio filter because it is an anti-biotic, that is it will kill bacteria. However there is a difference in gram negative and gram positive bacteria, and like I said, it worked great in my tank. Another issue to consider is the same reason we try to use antibiotics sparingly in humans -- if you continually treat with it because the underlying problem is not corrected and it keeps coming back, you will eventually have an outbreak of Erythromycin-resistant BGA, which has also been reported.

One of the keys to keeping effects to a minimum is to manually remove as much of the bba as possible before and during treatment. This will keep the excess dead material to a minimum in the tank, which could put your tank at risk for an ammonia or nitrite spike, and a mini cycle. Get rid of the dead stuff after treatment ASAP as well.

BTW, you can get Erythromycin a couple of ways -- it is sold (for $$$) at your LFS as myacin (NOT Myacin II). Or you can try to sweet talk some Erythromycin out of your local pharmacist (because they are prescription drugs, but much much cheaper in this form). My local pharmacist sold me some when I explained what they were for. I suppose you could always get a vet to write you a prescription for it? I dunno.