setting up Co2 tank w/ regulator

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ringfinger

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
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It's final, today I ordered a 10lb Co2 tank from beveragefactory.com and bought a Milwaukee MA957 regulator off eBay. Is it difficult at all to hook everything up, or is there anything I should look out for?
 
just follow the instructions that come with the regulator...basically making sure the regulator valve is 'shut off' before you attach it to the cylinder, and definitely before you open the valve on the cylinder.
 
you might want some teflon tape and a wrench too. ;)

also make sure you actually read the instructions. The first time I opened the co2 tank cylinder after attaching the regulator I think I needed one valve OPEN to let the pressure equalize... I know I am describing this wrong, but don't worry. The instructions came with a big WARNING do this or you'll ruin your regulator.

It was a little counter intuitive but it worked.

Also, I was surprised when it was all hooked up that I didnt' hear anything. I don't know what I expected, I thought bells would ring and the birds would sing or I'd hear a quick hiss or something. Instead all that happened was a guage that read 0 before now read something else ;)
 
Thanks both. Ya, I dont want to ruin my regulator.

I'm excited for this. MTS caught up to me before I had good equiptment, so I am taking a step back. Holding off on corals for my 2.5g reef, changing the 20g to low light, and investing in Co2 for the 29g.
 
Yeah, the regulator instructions sound backwards. You need the valve all the way 'unscrewed', which means the regulator won't allow gas to pass through it.

As you screw the knob down, it gets tighter, and will allow CO2 to flow through. If the knob is tightened down when you open the valve on the cylinder, you risk blowing the regulator membrane, instantly ruining the regulator.
 
So the tightened is open, and unscrewed is closed? Anyways, I will be sure to read the instructions carefully to save myself from serious dissapointment. :)
 
And when it is all hooked up, and you ahve pressure in the first gauge, then you will tighten that valve until you have about (not sure what units you'll see but think about 25 % ,) pressure in the second gauge.

make it so that ultimately you are controlling the bubble rate not from the big valve on the regulator but from your needle valve on your bubble counter.
 
make it so that ultimately you are controlling the bubble rate not from the big valve on the regulator but from your needle valve on your bubble counter.

That's the way I do it, that's they way I figured it would be done, but that is NOT what they say in their directions, they say to use the regulator not the needle valve.
 
not sure which regulator you have Wizz. But yeah, you set the right gauge to around 25psi, then use the needle valve to adjust.

Also, its really normal for regulator's to have a 'break in'...where it'll close the valve over a few hours, and you have to crank the main knob open again.

its something to do with the spring inside pushing the valve closed again.

so yeah, after you get it all running right, check it every couple hours and turn the knob more until it stays steady.
 
Mine is the Milwaukee all in one. and the instructions state...

Direct from their sheet that comes with it.

"Only use the needle valve if you can not get an exact flow from adjustment knob (E)"

last line, first page.

Second paragraph, back side

"Adjust the bubble count on your regulator using adjustment know (E) as described in previous adjustment step. Use the needle valve (B) for fine tuning the bubble count if it can not be accomplished with just the adjustment know (E)."

E is the big valve on the regulator, B is the needle valve. Like I said, the instructions say not to use the needle valve, but that doesn't make sense to me, so I don't do it.
 
I have the same regulator, and can't wait to set it up. The way I take the instructions is to use the main valve to get as close as you can to the setting you want, and if you can't get it exact, then to use the needle valve to fine tune it to the exact setting. Doesn't say to not use it at all. I'll most likely just use the main valve, but if I need to adjust it just a tiny bit, will use the needle valve if the main valve moves it too much.
 
My regulator is necked down to a three-way manifold. Each of the the three flows is controlled separately by a needle-valve. Works great. The only reason I post this is to caution you to leak-test every join in the gas path to make sure that you have no leaks. Get it all set up, gassing all the way through, bubbles-a-flowin', and then get a dish of thick soapy water and apply it to every join in the structure. If you see any soap bubbles popping out of the joins then you know that you either need to tighten the fittings or take the damn thing apart and apply a little plumber's tape to the threads. Trust me, this may save you a bit of pain.
 
It can't hurt Sherry. Just put a little dish soap in a bowl, mix in just a bit of water, and take a Q-tip and wipe it around all of the joints on your reactor. Chances are you're in good shape, but if there are any poor seals, this will find them :)
 
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