Still unsure how to resolve my algae issues...

[philipraposo198]

My tank has had algae almost from day one, my fault for bring plants in the tank with bba. At the time I had no clue about algae as I was still very new to the hobby. Fast forward to today, my tank is doing fairly well and is by no means overruled with algae but I do have some bba and hair algae in the tank.

I have tried several things to help reduce / control it but I have yet to really notice any real changes. I am beginning to feel a little lost in where to go from here and I am turning to you guys/gals in hope to get a better understanding of what's going on and how I am resolve it.

Here is a little video I took to showcase the algae.

Currently I am running the finnex planted plus lights for 8 hours a day, dosing the tank with 1/16th tsp of kh2po4 and 2 capfuls of flourish comprehensive once a week on different days. I have cut back on water changes to try and keep c02 levels consistant. I don't have c02 or use excel. I am not doing any more pruning or moving of plants for a bit till i can try and resolve this. This schedule has been running for only a week and a half doing these things. I was planning on running it like this for about a month to see how things are effected.

nitrates are steady at around 30ppm which is why i don't dose kno3.
ph is 6.6
temp is 80


my stock according to aqadvisor is around 105% and i feed once a day a good amount of food. food is a large variety of things day to day.

Thoughts? Advice?

 

[Dragon.goby]

Have you tried snails?

 

[philipraposo198]

I have a ton of MTS and ramshorn and pond snails

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[Kharrnn]

I've been reading all over the forums here that a double dose of Excel twice a day can help dramatically with algae, in addition to promoting better growth from your plants.

I don't know of any snails that eat bba and as far as I know only Amano shrimp eat hair algae. But getting livestock to control algae only fixes the symptom, not the problem. You said you feed a good amount, does that mean you feed a lot, or just enough to keep your fish healthy?

I had a bout with bba and other algaes and was told to shorten my photo period and break it up even. At the time I was running 1 long 8 hour period. It was recommended I run for 2x3 hour periods instead. In addition to making it harder for algae, I was able to actually view my tank while I was at home. I set it for once in the morning and once in the evening, both when I'm home.

I also did a 3 day blackout twice, spaced about 2 weeks apart. I did a 50% water change and fed my fish before I went dark. The first time the algae was noticeably reduced but still present. Because of the shock to the plants I waited. The second blackout knocked the algae out and the plants have all recovered and flourished since then.

I have since upgraded my light and set up pressurized CO2. My tank is looking better than ever and algae problems are minimal.


P.S. Your video is private and we are unable to view it.

 

[philipraposo198]

http://youtu.be/cCh6Tl9y7TM try this

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[aqua_chem]

You have BBA my friend. I recommend googling around and seeing what other people have done, as it's a pretty common problem.

In brief though, it's generally thought to be caused by excess light/insufficient carbon (CO2 or excel). I usually recommend a two part approach: getting rid of what you have and preventing it from coming back. The second step is probably the easiest. Simply plan on either getting CO2 (which I know isn't always reasonable) or trying Excel. Your case looks pretty mild all things considered, so I think you're a good candidate for Excel only. As far as getting rid of what's there, I would try using a plastic syringe to directly apply hydrogen peroxide (3% concentration bought cheap at drug stores/super market/safeway) to the algae. I would start with adding 2 mL/gallon, again DIRECTLY onto the algae. It should bubble and turn red after a little time. Turn all your filters off while you're doing this so you have absolutely no current. You don't want this stuff in your filters, and you want the chemical to spend as much time as possible in contact with the algae.

This approach should get rid of what you have and hopefully address the reasons that brought it on in the first place.

 

[philipraposo198]

I have been using a spray bottle with peroxide every little bit to control it. I know this is not the answer but just something till I dial it in.

I am really against using excel or c02 in my tank as it goes against my main goal of keeping a low tec tank.



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[aqua_chem]

How much light do you have?

 

[anteatergoanna]

Peroxide is your best bet, I have used it and it killed it easy.

 

[philipraposo198]

I know how to kill it but its the root cause that I need to solve or else it will always come back.

I have a 48" finnex planted plus led fixture which is approx 16-17" above the substrate that runs for 8 hours a day.

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[clarkm]

Not supplementing co2/excell is likely the case. I have the same light and about the same distance in depth and had the same algae in my tank and then I started dosing 20 ml a day of metricide 14 and no longer have any algae.

 

[Sk3lly]

Lower lighting to 6 hours then dial it back up slowly once you've seen an improvement until you hit the sweet spot.

Dont cut back on water changes as a cure!!!

What are your nitrate and phosphate readings?

 

[philipraposo198]

Nitrates are around 30ppm maybe a bit less but I don't have a phosphate test kit.

Do I need one? What's signs of phosphate deficiency?

I am really not interested in using any forms of co2

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[Sk3lly]

I think planted tank owners should have a phosphate test kit. Api do a liquid one. Its not expensive.

Its not that you may have too little phosphates but you may have too many.

Plants need three things for max growth. LIGHT, CARBON and FERTILISER/NUTRIENTS.

If your not willing to dose a carbon source in the form of excel of pressurised co2, then i believe your plants will not grow to their full potential.

Whilst plants are not growing to their potential, they will not out compete algae. Excess nutrients ordinarily taken up by plants dont get used as the plant doesnt require them for their reduced growth rate. Algae will use these nutrients to thrive

 

[philipraposo198]

I think I will get a phosphate test.

I don't agree with the co2 comment though as many low tech tanks do well without co2 or excel. Many.

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[aqua_chem]

The idea of excess nutrients causing algae is a pretty old way of thinking, unfortunately. While levels in massive excess can cause algae, most levels you encounter in a well maintained tank (ie, regular water changes) will not get to such a level. In fact, the entire Estimative Index is based on dosing well in excess of what plants can consume, leading to an excess. Some users dose even more still. Tom Barr doses 5ppm 3x per week, or at least he previously did to great success. It doesn't cause algae. Period. A phosphate test is a test that personally I don't think really has a place in freshwater aquaria, as you don't get any information from it that you shouldn't already be able to deduce. Too little phosphate = GSA, yellow spots on leaf. Too much algae = ???, doesn't really cause a problem. Cutting back on phosphate is also a good way to create another problem.

I'm sorry that you wanted to stay low tech, but at this point the writing is on the wall. While some tanks achieve great results in low tech, they often have less light and/or use Excel, which I don't think anyone will argue makes a tank low tech by itself. Your stocking level might also be a bit much for the tank (AqAdvisor is really a poor metric), or your maintenance might not be up to snuff. Either way, phosphate is not going to be a cure-all for your problem.

 

[philipraposo198]

You make some valid points but no real suggestions as to how to move forward. I know I can achieve a low tech tank with no co2 or excel because others have done it.

If you can offer valid things to try I am more than Willi g to do so.

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[aqua_chem]

You've gotten a lot of good suggestions here. I'll add some more. In order of most likely to fix the problem to least:

Excel
Increasing water changes
Decreasing light intensity (ie, raising light)
Increasing water change frequency and magnitude
Decreasing amount of time light is on.

Any of these options should be combined with spot treating with H2O2 1-2 times per day at 1-4 mL/gal.


It needs to be said again that 'low tech' does not preclude a tank from having higher light; it generally just means no pressurized CO2, fert regimen, or intense lighting. Lots of the beautiful low tech tanks you see also use Excel. Many are also maintained by experienced aquarist that will be able to get away with more with less (or less with more, depending on your perspective).

 

[Brookster123]

Change more water...simple. . If you're not going to add anything than don't leave too much of what's already there.. low tech

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[philipraposo198]

I will get on doing more freq WC with a bit larger amounts. I will also kill an hour of light and bring it down to 7 hours instead of 8. Will co tinue to spot treat.

The 1-4ml/gal does this mean for my 60g of tank water I can use up to 240ml?? To dose the whole tank?? I am not clear.

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