Strange CO2 and KH/PH relationship question
- Thread starter SpeedEuphoria
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Definately still do a water change after doing major cleaning of any kind, including algae removal. You need to get all that stuff that you've cleaned off out of your aquarium somehow so that it doesn't make matters worse. You can either make sure to gas off the CO2 before adding the new water, or you can delay the cleaning until your scheduled water change.
As far as the bubbles from the substrate, you'll want to either manually stir it occationally or get some MTS to stir it for you. Deeper substrates can lead to a build up of toxic gases if you don't stir them occationally.
Have you ever actually identified which algae you're still dealing with? There may still be some minor tweaks that you can make depending on what your are dealing with.
As far as the bubbles from the substrate, you'll want to either manually stir it occationally or get some MTS to stir it for you. Deeper substrates can lead to a build up of toxic gases if you don't stir them occationally.
Have you ever actually identified which algae you're still dealing with? There may still be some minor tweaks that you can make depending on what your are dealing with.
OP
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SpeedEuphoria
Aquarium Advice Addict
You can grow fast grower w/o CO2, they just grow slower and need less ferts. What do you think they did before this high tech lighting and the realization that injecting CO2 in a planted tank helped.
Non CO2 methods - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report
Well if my plants dont grow I wont have more plants, lol. The last pics are the plants I have in there now alot more than the 1st couple pics.
Also I found that CO2 in your pipes is not a good thing for corrosion. Lower PH from the CO2 would corrode pipes more its acidic. I found that some places use phosphate in tap water to raise PH to prevent corrosion.
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SpeedEuphoria
Aquarium Advice Addict
Oh just saw your post Joy.
Do you think I should do a blackout(how long?)? Then clean, then WC(w/ off gassed water). Dose slight ferts and continue.
Then resume 6hrs lighting, or straight to 8hrs?
I thought I read that high phosphates is not a cause of algae, I have read however that low Phosphates can cause GSA which I deff do Not have.
The algae I have is Green, slimy, fuzz/hair. I get what looks like GDA on the glass, but it also grows hairs that wave in the current(I think I read that this was possible from GDA also?). When I try to remove the algae it basically falls apart and its basically impossible to actually remove any from the tank. All I can do is wipe it off of leaves then it floats to a new plant in the tank.
I also have seen a small patch of green hair algae in the moss.
I really hope Excel will help me, this is very frustrating. I really think I had a series of unfortunate events in this tank and now I'm fighting a very hard battle, especially for a newbie.
On the Other hand my 10G is fine except for 1 plant that is growing slight staghorn(just one section on Wisteria in the middle of the plant which is near the filter inlet). I had algae in there but it is now gone except for that.
Do you think I should do a blackout(how long?)? Then clean, then WC(w/ off gassed water). Dose slight ferts and continue.
Then resume 6hrs lighting, or straight to 8hrs?
I thought I read that high phosphates is not a cause of algae, I have read however that low Phosphates can cause GSA which I deff do Not have.
The algae I have is Green, slimy, fuzz/hair. I get what looks like GDA on the glass, but it also grows hairs that wave in the current(I think I read that this was possible from GDA also?). When I try to remove the algae it basically falls apart and its basically impossible to actually remove any from the tank. All I can do is wipe it off of leaves then it floats to a new plant in the tank.
I also have seen a small patch of green hair algae in the moss.
I really hope Excel will help me, this is very frustrating. I really think I had a series of unfortunate events in this tank and now I'm fighting a very hard battle, especially for a newbie.
On the Other hand my 10G is fine except for 1 plant that is growing slight staghorn(just one section on Wisteria in the middle of the plant which is near the filter inlet). I had algae in there but it is now gone except for that.
If you're dealing with GDA, then leave it alone for about 2-3 weeks so that it runs through its lifecycle. You should be able to wipe it off at that point and it won't come back.
The slimy stuff could be BGA. If so I'd check to make sure that the places where it is occuring have enough flow, and if not correct. With insufficient flow you can get pockets of water that have deficiencies even though when you test it shows good levels.
I'd give these two a try along with less waterchanges and see how things are going after a month or two. At that point you can reassess and determine what to do next if necessary.
I've found that a lot of times just sitting back and letting my aquariums work through their issues is the best bet. Continue with good maintenance and dosing and things will slowly correct themselves. Once the aquarium matures, you'll find that it's a lot more stable and is much easier to get it back in line even if you've been neglecting it for awhile.
The slimy stuff could be BGA. If so I'd check to make sure that the places where it is occuring have enough flow, and if not correct. With insufficient flow you can get pockets of water that have deficiencies even though when you test it shows good levels.
I'd give these two a try along with less waterchanges and see how things are going after a month or two. At that point you can reassess and determine what to do next if necessary.
I've found that a lot of times just sitting back and letting my aquariums work through their issues is the best bet. Continue with good maintenance and dosing and things will slowly correct themselves. Once the aquarium matures, you'll find that it's a lot more stable and is much easier to get it back in line even if you've been neglecting it for awhile.
OP
OP
SpeedEuphoria
Aquarium Advice Addict
I dont think its BGA. Its deff green only.
Actually after rereading this again I'm pretty positive its Green Beard Algae.
Aquarium Algae ID (updated)
I have low CO2(obliviously) and did not dose enough Nitrate at the beginning to account for the lack of fish load.
Also for brutus, I'm not giving up. I'm glad your method works for you.
I also found this while browsing which is a good comparison
How come non CO2 tanks and CO2 enriched tanks work? - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report
Actually after rereading this again I'm pretty positive its Green Beard Algae.
Aquarium Algae ID (updated)
I have low CO2(obliviously) and did not dose enough Nitrate at the beginning to account for the lack of fish load.
Also for brutus, I'm not giving up. I'm glad your method works for you.
I also found this while browsing which is a good comparison
How come non CO2 tanks and CO2 enriched tanks work? - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report
You might want to give Steve Hampton's algae article a read if you haven't already. While it doesn't specifically name Green Brush Algae, there are some tips on how to approach algae in general.
I've added your link to my bookmarks. Always good to have another resource with pictures for ID and additional ideas on treatment.
Tom Barr is always a great read, and that article is no exception.
I've added your link to my bookmarks. Always good to have another resource with pictures for ID and additional ideas on treatment.
Tom Barr is always a great read, and that article is no exception.
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