Turface MVP Question

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

gu2high

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
359
Location
Central NJ
I bought two bags (100 lb) of Turface MVP for about $27. Sifted out all small particles that less 2mm, rinsed three times. Got about 70 lb to cover 4.5 sqf bottom of the tank. I left the tank with water covering the Turface MVP for about 1 week. Then I tested the water ph and found the ph is 6.6. It maybe ideal for tetra and angelfish, but it is not good for golden fish and liverbears. I am wondering if I change the water several times, will the ph come back to 7.0? My other tank has ph 7.0.

Besides, I think it is also too light. When changing/adding water, it is very easy to be disturbed or blow away.
 
Turface won't affect your pH, so either you've got something in your other tank that is buffering the pH or something else in the current tank that is lowering the pH like driftwood. What is the pH of your tap water after either aerating it for an hour or leaving it sit for 24 hours?

Also it was unnecessary to remove those smaller particles. A quick rinse to remove the worst of the dust would have been sufficient. It does tend to be a lighter substrate, so you have to be a bit more careful with it than gravel. Your best bet is to use a bowl/plate/hand to diffuse the water going back into the tank so that it isn't disturbed as much.
 
Actually, Turface does carry a PH of about 6.2..

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/plant_substrates.php

and there is a better article (complete, by the same author) that shows all the contents and why the PH is what it is.

http://home.infinet.net/teban/jamie.htm

Sounds like you are looking for Seachem Onyx which has a higher PH (9.6) due to it's high calcium content (and other things listed lower in the article under "PH"). Perhaps a mix of the 2.

There is information on a lot of substrates in the second link, including the PH and CEC.
 
My tap water ph is 7.0. The tank is new and washed, nothing inside yet, only the Turface MVP and the tap water. I sifted the small particle as they are too tiny and too compact and I don't like it, besides I have enough to cover the tank. It covers about 5 inches now. I also wash it thoroughly. So, I am pretty sure it changes ph. I know that it dissolves/breaks very little, about 3% for 20 years (manufacturer claims this), so I hope it may not change ph too much after several weeks and several water changes.

I just have to wait to see. I also checked that ph6.6 is ok for most of fishes I want to have in this community tank (58 gallons), but my platy may require ph7 or above. If so, I have to replace the substrate, or add some ph buffer or other alkaline substrate.

The worst case is, if it even lower ph further in few weeks without water change, then I may discard it and use other substrate instead.
 
A little crushed coral in the filter will slowly raise your ph naturally, and only needs replacing about every 3-4 months. Just a small handful is all that's needed.
 
a ph of 6.6 will be fine for most fish, even platies. they may prefer a slightly higher one, but it really will not harm them at all. a stable ph is more important than a perfect one.
 
Yesterday evening I changed 80% water, this morning I find ph 6.4. I have to take something to make it around 7.

Where to get crushed coral? I guess I can find it in petsmart.

How to use it? Use it in filter and replace every 3 months, or just mix with Turface MVP as permanent substrate? What proportion? Any idea?

Meanwhile, I added a big long sea shell and a Texas limestone honeycomb rock. Hope it can raise the ph a little bit. You can find the honeycomb rock info at
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/tx_holey_rock.php
 
Interesting information Wizard~Of~Ozz, I had always heard that Turface was inert and wouldn't affect the pH. From the looks of that article it appears that all substrates have a pH which will affect the pH of the water to varying degrees. So does this mean that when they refer to a substrate as being inert that it isn't likely to have a large affect on the water's pH?

Personally I'd also recommend leaving the pH alone. With a pH of 6.4 most fish will be just fine, and it's better to have a steady pH than one that's shifting. If you really want to buffer it up some, the the crushed coral is a good option. You can add it to your filter or the substrate, either one will work. I prefer the filter method as it's easier to remove some if you find out you've got too much and I doubt I would like the look of it mixed in with the substrate. Basically just add a little bit more to the filter as needed. The coral will slowly disolve which is what actually causes the pH to rise.
 
I want to raise pH to 7 is because my breeding tank has that pH, and also fish bought from pet store may live in that pH. Whenever do pwc, the tap water is pH7.0. Besides, some fishes do better in pH7 than in pH6.4. Just have same pH in all the tank, make fish transfer much safe.

Updates:
I followed Purrbox's idea to put a small bag (2x4") of Florida crushed coral (bought from Petsmart) in the filter. The next morning I checked the pH and it is 6.6. It is definitely better than 6.2 which is the pH of the Turface MVP. The crushed coral may takes weeks to 'soften' to get more release in the water. I will check again in a week, hope it come close to pH7. Else, I might add more crushed coral in the filter (but space is limited) or bury some of it directly in the substrate.
 
Back
Top Bottom