upkeep at 3 WPG and beyond

[wierdkid]

I've been enjoying my low light tank (20W NO over a 29 gal) for quite a while now, and I am considering stepping up my lighting. My plan is to get a double 65W CF fixture and for the time being running just one daylight bulb (10000K) until I have the time and money to commit to a high light tank. At 3 WPG (what i would get with one 65W CF bulb)how much work would i need to put in? I have no problem running DIY CO2 (already running one 2L) or liquid ferts.

 

[SparKy697]

I can give you some first hand input on this one. I started out with the same tank and lighting as you have now. I upgraded to a 55w cf lamp. For the most part I have been able to grow everything I throw in that tank other than some "ground cover" like hc and glosso. I'm using pressurized co2 @ 30ppm and dose Greg Watson ferts.

If you do co2 and ferts now, I doubt you would have any trouble with a little higher light.

On the light fixture, you can go as high as you like but I think you will need more than diy co2 if you choose to go with both lamps.

HTH

 

[wierdkid]

Thank you for the help! I figured beforehand that with even 4.5 WPG (one 10000K and a 50/50) I would need to go pressurized. Just to clarify on the ferts I'm using just flourish not Greg Watson or anything of the like.

 

[JustOneMore20]

With more light, the nutrient requirements will increase. Even with 55 or 65w over the tank, you should check your nitrate levels and decide if you should be dosing some KNO3 or nitrogen source. You should also dose Potassium. You could use the Flourish Potassium or pick up some K2SO4 dry.

With a double 65w fixture, you will most definitely need pressurized co2. DIY isnt likely to keep up and be stable enough to prevent the algae that will take up residence with that much light.

With 65w over a 29g, the plants grow faster than they will with less than 1wpg, but not super fast. Once you add a second 65w, the plants will grow really fast (assuming your fertilize and have co2) and the upkeep is more time consuming than low light, but not impossible. With ~4wpg you'll need a steady dosing routine which could be daily dosing. With only 2-3wpg you'll need to dose ferts, but not as often as with the high light.

 

[Purrbox]

Thank you for the help! I figured beforehand that with even 4.5 WPG (one 10000K and a 50/50) I would need to go pressurized. Just to clarify on the ferts I'm using just flourish not Greg Watson or anything of the like.

When you state that you are using Flourish, do you mean that you are using the Flourish Line of Ferts or just the one product called simply Flourish (with comprehensive on the label)? If it's the Flourish line of ferts, you'll want to look at switching to dry ferts with this kind of upgrade, as the Flourish Macro ferts are rather dilute and will get expensive fast. If it's just Flourish comprehensive, then don't even think about upgrading that light until you have macro ferts on hand. Without them you will be courting a major algae outbreak.

 

[wierdkid]

just the comprehensive, not the whole line of products. So even at 3 WPG I should be dosing macros (N,P,K only or iron as well?)?

currently, my tap water is running almost 10 PPM from the tap and is at 25 when i do a bi-weekly water change, and I don't have a phosphorous test kit but plan on getting it. should i dose these to 10 parts N to 1 part Phosphourous or some other manner? what about K, Fe, anything else? I know for sure with both bulbs i'll need to do the whole EI thing dosing with dry ferts and doing a water change on a weekly schedule, and pressurized CO2.

 

[Purrbox]

For most aquariums with 3+ WPG the plants will burn through the macro nutrients so fast that you have to supplement. There are a number of variables like the size of the aquarium and how much light is actually making it into the aquarium, that affect whether or not 3 WPF is actually high light or not. Occationally there's a high light aquarium that has a high enough bioload and/or nutrients in the tap that it isn't necessary, but you don't hear about those too often. Generally you should only need a good Trace Fert which will have plenty of iron, Nitrate, Phosphate, and Potassium. Depending on the water supply some also need to dose Calcium and/or Magnesium (low GH and/or out of balance). It's definately better to have the nutrients on hand and not need them, then find that you need them and end up with an algae mess before you can get ahold of the necessary suppliments.

You're Nitrates could be climbing for one of two reasons, either a high bioload or a shortage of another nutrient which is preventing the Nitrate from getting used. If a shortage is causing the Nitrates to climb, when the shortage is resolved you could find that you actually need to dose Nitrate to keep it from bottoming out. The 10:1 Nitrates to Phosphates ratio is a good starting place, but can be adjusted to fit your aquarium's needs. I find that I'm probably dosing closer to 5:1 in order to minimize GSA. For Traces you want to dose enough to achieve 0.1-0.2ppm iron and for Potassium you want to dose 10-20ppm. Again these can be adjusted based on the needs of your aqarium. It's all about dosing at a good starting level, and then adjusting as needed based on the needs of your aquarium, which will vary depending on the types of plants you're growing at a given time and how recently you've trimmed.

Personally I'd recommend upping your waterchanges to weekly now, instead of later. They wouldn't have to be as large (maybe 25%) as required for EI (50%), but it's a good habit to be in.

 

[wierdkid]

Ok so If i go through with the lights I plan to get the following fertilizers from aquariumfertilizer.com:

-Mono Potassium Phosphate
-Potassium Sulfate
-Calcium Nitrate

KH in my tank is 25dKH (lots of limestone bedrock locally) and 8dGH. pH 7.8, NH3 and NO2 are 0. I Think the ferts should do good, but if anyone has suggestions on changes or additions i'd greatly appreciate it!

edit: how much potassium does Mono Potassium Phosphate contribute (mg/kg)?

 

[Purrbox]

Most people use KNO3 - Potassium Nitrate for dosing Nitrate.

To determine how much to dose, I highly recommend downloading Chuck's Calculator.

 

[wierdkid]

any reasoning for KNO3 over CaNO3? is it to avoid having to dose a sperate chemical for K? it looks like I'm all set, so when I get the chance I'll order the ferts and lights and a few other things.

should i be dosing to the target levels suggested by the dosing calculator or should i dose a little lower (especially for K which is 15PPM)?

 

[Purrbox]

Actually the amounts recommended in the calculator are often a bit on the low side.

If you dose enough KNO3, then you don't have to dose K separately. Even better it's all but impossible to overdose K. Ca on the otherhand will affect your GH and could cause an issue if you already have plenty in your water.