kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
please scroll down the my last post thanks
What brand and Watts should work good for a 75g with small amount of plants?
What brand and Watts should work good for a 75g with small amount of plants?
Which of these items to go with first 75g?
- Thread starter kaz
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Zezmo
Aquarium Advice Addict
The biggest question is why do you want UV?
I use one BTW, and am happy with it. I have a Coral Twist 13w. I doubt it actually is srong enough to kill anything, but I have it so I use it.
I think to be realistic, you need to get over 25w, and have a slow water flow through the U/V. Read that to mean a U/V should be on its own pump and recirculating system. So for a 75G, maybe a pump that pushes 35-50 GPH, through a 25w+ U/V system might actually have some effect. Anything less is most likely just a placebo.
I use one BTW, and am happy with it. I have a Coral Twist 13w. I doubt it actually is srong enough to kill anything, but I have it so I use it.
I think to be realistic, you need to get over 25w, and have a slow water flow through the U/V. Read that to mean a U/V should be on its own pump and recirculating system. So for a 75G, maybe a pump that pushes 35-50 GPH, through a 25w+ U/V system might actually have some effect. Anything less is most likely just a placebo.
kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
I want Uv cause I read that it can kill microbacteria etc. I keep having ick problems, parasites etc, and now check this link out:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=96725&highlight=
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=96725&highlight=
Zezmo
Aquarium Advice Addict
The backbone curve in your Neon, is most likely fish tuberculosis. It can be slowed down by keeping the temps in your tank below 78f or so. The scratching of your Botia? Could be almost anything. Ick looks like little grains of salt on your fishes body and fins.
For U/V to be effective, my above comments hold true.
BTW... if you do have Ich, heat is a very effective treatment.
For U/V to be effective, my above comments hold true.
BTW... if you do have Ich, heat is a very effective treatment.
kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
is neon tuberculosis contagias?
Any fish with TB is. You should wear gloves when working in the tank IF it does have TB.
Post a pic in the sick fish forum.
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html#TB
Post a pic in the sick fish forum.
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html#TB
kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
unfortunetly I will have to put the neons down most of them have some sign of curving and spots, I have my girlfriend with lung cancer and very to no imune system because of it, I cant rist her or I to get this and neons where always giving me problems from 2 years ago until now dont know why but I feel shitty for this. thank everyone for all the info and I'm sorry I need to do this to the poor guys.
Wizzard~Of~Ozz
Aquarium Advice Addict
Neons are very prone to NTD (Neon Tetra Disease) which is also called saddleback disease. It starts as a discoloured spot on the back, right at the dorsal fin. last time I looked it up, there was no solid cure for it. Same result, the fish has to be put down.
Fish TB is not common IIRC.
Sorry to hear about your girlfriends problem. My hemotologist said at one point, I was very lucky to have a wife that stuck with me through treatments, I'm sure your girlfriend is just as lucky. Best of luck.
Fish TB is not common IIRC.
Sorry to hear about your girlfriends problem. My hemotologist said at one point, I was very lucky to have a wife that stuck with me through treatments, I'm sure your girlfriend is just as lucky. Best of luck.
Zezmo
Aquarium Advice Addict
One thing about U/V is how do you know it does anything? Having no sick fish might just mean you are doing a good job in caring for them.
You could in theory, add fish with say ich to a tank with U/V. If you do this several times over a period of time, and the disease never spreads it might mean the U/V is working. When you read up on U/V the levels needed to really be effective are much much higher than what is typically used in a home aquarium.
As for Fish Tuberculosis (TB), and Neon Tetra Disease (NTD). They are different diseases, but share some similar symptoms. Bottom line is the result is the same. Fatal, and contageous. Best to euthanize the fish early. Though there are many thoughs on euthanizing fish, I personally use a pair of snips to sever the head at the spine, then put the fish in the trash (no flushing). It is quick, humane, and prevents contamination of local water supplies. Properly putting fish down, while not pleasant, is a responsibility we have to accept as fish keepers.
You could in theory, add fish with say ich to a tank with U/V. If you do this several times over a period of time, and the disease never spreads it might mean the U/V is working. When you read up on U/V the levels needed to really be effective are much much higher than what is typically used in a home aquarium.
As for Fish Tuberculosis (TB), and Neon Tetra Disease (NTD). They are different diseases, but share some similar symptoms. Bottom line is the result is the same. Fatal, and contageous. Best to euthanize the fish early. Though there are many thoughs on euthanizing fish, I personally use a pair of snips to sever the head at the spine, then put the fish in the trash (no flushing). It is quick, humane, and prevents contamination of local water supplies. Properly putting fish down, while not pleasant, is a responsibility we have to accept as fish keepers.
kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
I thank you for all the kind words regarding my GF, now regarding the UV filter questinos where does the company who makes them get there info about a 14w uv is good with a xp3 flow rate of a 300 to 400 is enough and so on? I've had ick a couple of times, internal parasites etc from my fish through out the years, I do up to 50% of water changes every week and I use prime every time but I cannot pin point where it is coming from or causing this, so UV from what I read sounds like a good weapon to have as just one more tool of prevention. from what i read it kills microbacteria so another question is will it kill the micro stuff that the small red shrimp or ghost shrim feed on thus leaving them without foods?
check this canister filter with uv any comments on this product?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...ag-_-Fish-_-UniMax Pro 250&ref=3665&subref=AA
check this canister filter with uv any comments on this product?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...ag-_-Fish-_-UniMax Pro 250&ref=3665&subref=AA
Zezmo
Aquarium Advice Addict
Look at this article from Dr F&S. It has some good U/V info. According to that article, you need a minimum of 40w to kill parasites (like ich) if your flow rate is 300gph. That article suggests a minimum of 15w UV at 75gph to kill the nasty stuff.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?acatid=423&aid=440
Check out these higher wattage UV
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3666&N=2004+113778
That 120w bad boy for $589 will ceratinly knock down anything nasty in the tank.
Most of the lower wattage U/V just prevent green water and reduce algae.
BTW, I mentioned above that I have a 13w twist. When I checked it once I got home, mine is the 18w coral twist. I am running about 100-125gph through it. With it inline to one of my Fluval 303's. This is on a 72g tank.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?acatid=423&aid=440
Check out these higher wattage UV
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3666&N=2004+113778
That 120w bad boy for $589 will ceratinly knock down anything nasty in the tank.
Most of the lower wattage U/V just prevent green water and reduce algae.
BTW, I mentioned above that I have a 13w twist. When I checked it once I got home, mine is the 18w coral twist. I am running about 100-125gph through it. With it inline to one of my Fluval 303's. This is on a 72g tank.
kaz
Aquarium Advice Addict
I saw there article but it says that a 15w needs 300gph to control algae etc but only 100gph to control parasites now my question is which one do I go with a filter that has a 300 or a filter that is 100? or if i get an xp2 or a enhiem ecco is at around 200 or 300gph the 100 use for parasites is fine with a higher ghp, mm dont know if i made any sense.
my first thing is that I'm getting alot of problems with my fish do to parasites and off and on ick, maybe because I do not QT the new comers and striclty place them directly into my main tank. so because of this I wanted to make an extra secure mesure and place a UVS in my tank, but then I thought about reading about new canisters with built in UV and then I started to shop around for what options do i have with a budget in mind. Should I just Buy a UV Twister and hook it up to my xp3, or buy a new canister filter and hook up the UV to that one, or buy a UV and hook it up with a water pump etc. why a new canister when I have one already, because of my wanted stock will possibly make me overstock thus trying to keep things much cleaner etc for them as possible without having to clean up twice a week and to have more filtration in regards of growing bacteria etc. so based on this, this is what I want in the near future, question is what should I get first of all in order:
Fish about $75.00 to 90.00usd
plants about $50.00 to 90.00usd
better lighting system about $130.00 to 145.00usd
greg watson ferts about $40.00 to 50.00usd
UVS about $130.00usd
Extra canister about $70.00 to 130.00usd
based on this what do you guys think I should start first with most necessities first.
my first thing is that I'm getting alot of problems with my fish do to parasites and off and on ick, maybe because I do not QT the new comers and striclty place them directly into my main tank. so because of this I wanted to make an extra secure mesure and place a UVS in my tank, but then I thought about reading about new canisters with built in UV and then I started to shop around for what options do i have with a budget in mind. Should I just Buy a UV Twister and hook it up to my xp3, or buy a new canister filter and hook up the UV to that one, or buy a UV and hook it up with a water pump etc. why a new canister when I have one already, because of my wanted stock will possibly make me overstock thus trying to keep things much cleaner etc for them as possible without having to clean up twice a week and to have more filtration in regards of growing bacteria etc. so based on this, this is what I want in the near future, question is what should I get first of all in order:
Fish about $75.00 to 90.00usd
plants about $50.00 to 90.00usd
better lighting system about $130.00 to 145.00usd
greg watson ferts about $40.00 to 50.00usd
UVS about $130.00usd
Extra canister about $70.00 to 130.00usd
based on this what do you guys think I should start first with most necessities first.
Zezmo
Aquarium Advice Addict
The lower the water flow through the UV the better. Lower flow means the UV shines on a particular bit of water longer, and kills more stuff. This is one of those few times where less flow is what you want.
Does that make it clearer?
Does that make it clearer?
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