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Terrance

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Jun 21, 2011
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Submitted by Terrance

Synonyms: Carinotetraodon Travancoricus

Common Names: Pea Puffer, DP, Malabar Puffer, Pygmy Puffer

Category: Puffer

Family: Tetraodontidae

Origin: the western part of the southern tip of India

Main Ecosystem: Wetlands, rivers, and some lakes in India

Salinity: Pure freshwater

pH: 6.5-7.0

Temperature: 77-83F or 25-28C

Potential size: 1in or 2.5cm

Water Region: Bottom to mid levels of your tank

Tank size: 5 gallons per DP. Although you can keep 1 DP in a 5 gallon tank, I strongly encourage 20 gallons (which can house 4 DP at most), especially a long tank. Almost all puffer experts will advise against tall tanks. The bigger tanks helps dilute all the waste. Nano tanks can crash easily from uneaten food or unexpected rise in waste level.

Temperment/Tank mates: Active little buggers. Very few species are recommended as tank mates due to aggressive and territorial nature. Otocinclus algae eater is a good cleaner for your tank once you get it running for a few months. You can also add in various shrimps. Those are the two winning choices for this puffer. You just need to know that all other species (even to other DP) has a high chance of getting nipped to death or eaten. Slow moving, long-finned fish should not be in the same tank as a DP. Each DP has its own personality. Some may be shy and hides a lot. Other DPs may attack anything on sight. If you ever get a group of DPs, make sure there is only ONE male and all the other DP is a female. Males inside a tank are known to show aggression towards each other.

Diet: Varying daily meals. Feed these puffs some snails once or twice per week to minimize teeth overgrowth. If teeth are not maintained by feeding them hard shelled food once or twice a week, then you will be required to manually cut the DP's teeth yourself. This is extremely difficult because the DP is so tiny to hold and their small teeth is so hard to trim. You can also feed frozen raw shrimp or mussel from the grocery store. From time to time, you can also feed some blood worms and live worms. If you ever decide to feed your DP raw shrimp or anything that looks like a shrimp, then it will increase the chance of your DP eating your favorite red cherry shrimp your tank. It is very easy to overfeed a DP because they are so tiny. They will eat until their stomach explode. Feed enough to make its belly slightly rounded. Its ok to skip a meal once a week. Overfeeding will also shorten their lifespan.

Care: They need fully cycled tanks since puffers are scaleless and are very sensitive to traces of ammonia or nitrite. Owners are required to perform at least 50% water change per week and have strong filtration because puffers are messy eaters and release a lot of waste! Your filter should turn the water 10x the amount of the water volume. So if you have a 20 gallon, you want a filter of at least 200 gph. If your puffer is too small, then think about adding something to the intake of the filter to protect your puffer from getting sucked/stuck to the intake itself. These are very active puffer and territorial, so they need a lot of decor to keep a territory for each DP. Break up each puffers line of sight from each other because they don't want to see each other.

Activity: DPs will eventually recognize their owner and beg for food constantly. When owner is not around, the DP will go back to hunting and protecting their territory. They don't need friends or a tank buddy because 1 puffer will not get lonely. As far as the personalities of the puffer, I've always thought having more puffers will bring out more of their personality. After doing much research, I've been told that having only 1 puffer will bring out the most of its personality. Almost all puffers are territorial, so they don't like tank mates.

Lifespan: Approximately 4-5 years in captivity

Sexing: Males have a dark line through its underbelly with wrinkles behind the eyes. Females do not have either of these characteristics. Males are darker with slightly yellowish underbelly and brownish back. Females are lighter with whitish underbelly and lighter back (with more distinct black spots).

Acclimation: If you ever decide to get 2-3+ DP, then get all of them at the same time. This will minimize the chances of the established DP bullying the new puff due to territory reasons. If you get a DPs at different times, try rearranging all the decor around so that the new DP has an equal chance of establishing its territory. Remember, I recommend having only 1 male in a group of DPs.

Comments: If you're into puffers, then this is the best starter puffer you could possibly own. Message me if you have questions about care. If you don't like dwarf puffers, then I could recommend you to other species of freshwater and/or brackish water puffers. I would like to add more to this post if you have some useful information. I copied and paste most of the things from my F8 profile thread.

Sources: 100+ hours of reading about puffers online at various puffer websites. I also have 1 dwarf puffer. Dwarf Puffer Carinotetraodon travancoricus <-- great photos

Please feel free to share your DP photos.
 
Experiences

I have had my DP for 2 months now. I have not fed her any hard shelled food for the last month. I'll continue to feed him soft food to see if they get overgrown teeth. I'm starting to think that they will never get overgrown teeth. Usually active puffers have a higher chance of getting overgrown teeth. DPs seem to be the only exception.

My DP seems to really love exploring the giant java moss ball that I put in her tank. Its an eye sore, but I always see her inside the ball.

I have kept my tank bottom bare (without substrate). I have a lot of fish poo laying everywhere in my tank. I really have to clean out my filter pad every week. My 6g has weak filtration (all small setup have weak filtration). I have been doing 30% water changes every 3-4 days just to clean up the fish poo. My plants help keep the water clean.

I will need to upgrade her tank from this crappy 6g to a +10g soon. I have kept her with 3 red cherry shrimps without any problems so far. She hunts for the red cherry shrimp babies all the time.

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My LFS keeps a bunch of them in a small area and they dont seem aggressive but everything I read says they are. Why? Also do they typically eat red cherry shrimp?
 
They might be overcrowded and stressed, which shows you the change in behavior. Some of them may also be very young and have not matured into a more aggressive DP. Does all of their fins look intact? There are a bunch of people walking back and forth at the LFS, so they watch the outside world. They are most aggressive when nobody is around, and will become territorial.

Its possible that they will eventually eat the RCS. I don't really care for my RCS, so I leave them in there. My DP seems more interested in picking off the baby shrimps. DP owners shouldn't get attached to their shrimp.
 
Would a dp do ok in a fluval edge with crystal shrimp and cherry shrimp
 
The fluval edge has weak filtration. Its a good idea to buy an internal filter along with it. The DP may eat the shrimps right away or later. Try buying shrimps from breeders for cheaper price.
 
You're more likely to run into problems with territory and polluted water. Less dp is always better than more. If you never owned fish before, than make it easier for yourself by getting 2 dp. You could even throw in some inexpensive red cherry shrimp.

You just gotta trust me on this one. There are plenty of other harmful pollutants in water besides ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Thats why i recommend at least 50% pwc for any fw or bw tank.
 
How about 2 in a 10 gallon tank? Should I do 1 male, 1 female. Or something else like 2 female or 2 male???
 
I have 12 DP in a 200L tank they seem to be ok with each other.when they turned up there was a glow light tetra in with them I think he was in the tank in the shop with them as they all seem to accept him and don't attack him! Likewise I think the glow light thinks its a DP! They live happily with a blue phantom and synos and khuli loaches which they don't bother but who keep the substrate clean from waste food. THEY DON'T LIKE CORYDORAS AND HAVE KILLED 2 :( so I'm having to get rid of my Corys. They are wicked little fish with loads of character and I love them best fish I have ever kept.
 
I've heard people keeping DPs with several variety of fish in the same tank in the short-term, but never long-term. In a DPs 5+ year lifespan, I think there will be some kind of issue with most (not all) DP living with non-species tankmate.

update us with your experience in a year or two ;)
 
Wow thanks for all the info! Can you feed them pellets or flakes.
 
no pellets or flakes (maybe sometimes for added nutrients to their diet). Dead or alive worms and crustaceans as a main staple.
 
Introducing Peas to your Aquarium

Almost all pea puffers come from the wild. I've heard of Petsmart breeding their own pea puffer supply, but I'll have to confirm the info. In the wild, these fish eat live food such as worms and snails. Both are easily accessible from LFS. I believe all DPs should be fed these live food as main staple. I know a hobbyist who has kept DPs >5 years (longer than anyone I've known). The trick has to do with the constant 50% weekly water changes and diet of live snails and worms (black worms). Both are very nutritious.

Regardless of the above, you will need to treat all incoming puffers for internal parasite. This is for precaution purposes. Definitely treat if you see your puffer with a sunken stomach. Best to soak the raw shrimp in aquarium water with a few drops of medicine (Prazipro or Jungle Meds liquid form). I do not believe live food is appropriate for medicating since they do not absorb very much of the medicine. Raw shrimp is more like a sponge. It will absorb a lot of the medicine.

Most likely, your puffer will not accept dead/raw shrimp in the first place. IMHO, I do not believe DPs are picky eaters. If you are feeding 6 days a week (1 day for fasting) and not overfeeding during every meal, the puffer/s should not be picky at all (maybe once in a blue moon). Your fish does not understand that you are presenting them food that are dead. You will have to teach your puffer to eat the dead food.

Start by giving them live food for the first few days. Give them a few days to get used to you as the "food person". When they get used to you, then dip in feeding tongs during feeding. These smart fish will eventually learn feeding tongs are associated with food. Perhaps you can inch the food and the tong closer as each day passes. Once they are eating strong with the tong being present in the water, then hold the live food with the tong. Snails are the easiest to hold with tongs. It might take some time for this to work, so don't be worried about starving them. The longer they go without food, the more likely they will eat the snail from the tong.

Once you get them to eat live food from the tong, then start holding raw shrimp with your tong. You're just waiting for them to take the first bite, then they'll be hooked on raw shrimp. These curious puffers will eventually figure out that the shrimp is delicious. It might also take some time. Maybe you can try feeding raw shrimp one day, and then live food the next. Do something that will help them associate the stuff from the tong is food.

Once these puffs are hooked onto raw shrimp, then you can start medicating the food. A few drops of the medicine in a bowl of aquarium water is sufficient. You may have to put in a few drops of aquarium garlic if needed. Medicated food taste nasty.

If you wish, you could also feed them other dead food with tongs. This is the tongs I have: Amazon.com: Zoo Med Stainless Steel Feeding Tongs, 10-Inch: Pet Supplies

Everything stated above has been my experience owning this species and reading many of other people's pea problems. Seems to be very effective to me. You may get lucky by getting a DP that will eat anything, but I don't believe they are all like that. The DPs at my LFS are all skinny and look very sick. I think it has to do with the stressful lifestyle at the LFS. The tank is cramped and the food in unfamiliar, so they end up starving and stressed. These factors causes stress to the DP and weakens their immune system. This is why I (and many other puffer advocates) suggest treating all new DPs for internal parasites.

This method gets trickier if you have more puffers in one tank. If you do not meet ALL of the basic requirements (5g per DP, loads of decor, 50% weekly pwc, etc), then you will be multiplying more factors to why your fish is not eating anything at all. Peas are very territorial. Without feeling secure with their own territory, then these fish will be very stressed, prone to disease, and/or won't eat.

I suggest slowly introducing them one by one. Teach and treat each puffer in an isolated area (away from the main tank). QT tank is excellent! Provide these fish with your individual attention until they learn your feeding methods.

If you can just get over this initial hurdle, then the rest will be easy sailing. IMO, this is a very fun and interesting process. It's a challenge and I enjoy watching my puffer getting to know me.
 
So if I just wanted ONE pea puffer, what would be his/her requirements as far as tank size and filtration? Do you have a specific brand of tank you could recommend? Do they have to have raw/live food or are they okay with dried food (such as dried bloodworms?)
 
5g is the absolute minimum for every DP. Brand does not matter for the DP, but it might matter for you in terms of price and appearance. Its cheap to buy those 10g at Petco's Dollar Per Gallon Sale (just need to wait for those). They are ok with dead bloodworms, but they don't offer as much nutritional value. If you have kids, then would you rather feed them McDonalds every day or grandma's home-made meals?
For a 5g, get the best filter you can get your hands on (>50+ gph recommended).
 
5g is the absolute minimum for every DP. Brand does not matter for the DP, but it might matter for you in terms of price and appearance. Its cheap to buy those 10g at Petco's Dollar Per Gallon Sale (just need to wait for those). They are ok with dead bloodworms, but they don't offer as much nutritional value. If you have kids, then would you rather feed them McDonalds every day or grandma's home-made meals?
For a 5g, get the best filter you can get your hands on (>50+ gph recommended).
Thinking about getting a Dwarf Puffer. I can easily provide for all of their needs, but I am a little concerned about feeding. I do not have access to LIVE bloodworms, but I can feed them frozen bloodworms, any I have a ready supply of gold and pink ramshorn snails. My cousin has an ugly snail infestation, but the snails are really tiny. What's the best food for 'em?
 
Live food is very nutritious. Its ok to feed those frozen bloodworms though. If snails are easily available to you, then that is the better food source.

IMO frozen bloodworms and live blackworms cost a lot of money. I like to buy them from group buys. In my area, there are a few people who order fresh live blackworms in bulk and sell them to me for cheaper price. It saves a lot of money.
 
I just got some live bloodworms and daphnia today for my dps also a apple snail and a shrimp . It's around a £1 per bag for live food and £2 for frozen at my lfs . The bag of daf has black beetles and other things that are not daphnia !!? Don't know if I should use or not ?
 
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