Java Fern by Fruitbat

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Fruitbat

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[center:acef3b7982]Java Fern[/center:acef3b7982]
[center:acef3b7982]Microsorium pteropus(Blume) Copeland[/center:acef3b7982]

Written by: Fruitbat

Scientific Name:Microsorium pteropus (Blume) Copeland; Family Polypodiaceae
Synonyms: Polypodium pteropus
Common Name: Java Fern
Region: India and southern China through Southeast Asia and Indonesia to New Guinea.
Maximum Size: Frond length up to 20cm (8 inches).
pH Range and Hardness: Not critical. Can grow in water from pH 5.0 - 8.0 and hardness (GH) from 8 - 20 dH. Will also tolerate slightly brackish water.
Temperature: Not critical. Temperatures from 65 - 85 degrees F are tolerated.
Light Level: prefers subdued light (2.5 watts per gallon or less).
Ease of Growth EASY

Habitat and Niche

Java Fern is found growing emersed along the banks of swamps and rivers throughout its range. In some areas it is a major component of the vegetation of the swampy forest floor. Java Fern is almost always found in conditions of shade or partial shade. It often grows attached to mossy rocks. This plant could be considered to be amphibious and is capable of withstanding total submersion for a considerable period of time.

Microsorium pteropus is a true fern, which means that it does not produce flowers or seeds. Like all ferns, the Java Fern reproduces with spores, clusters of which can often be seen beneath the leaves and are sometimes mistaken for a disease by inexperienced observers.

The stem of a fern, if it lies horizontally to the substrate and is anchored by roots, is called a 'rhizome'. The rhizome of Microsorium pteropus branches freely and will attach itself to objects in the aquarium.

Appearance

The leaves (fronds) of Java Fern are generally dark green in color above and below and lanceolate (spear-shaped). They have a leathery texture. In the variety Microsorium pteropus var. 'Windløv' the ends of the fronds are divided into finger-like projections. This is sometimes called the 'Lace Java Fern'. There is also a narrow-leafed variety of Microsorium pteropus. Occasionally the fronds of the normal variety will be 'tri-lobed'. The rhizome is green and quite thickened and is anchored by roots which may be black or brown in color.

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java4.jpg
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[center:acef3b7982]The dark green leaves in this picture are Microsorium pteropus[/center:acef3b7982]

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[center:acef3b7982]The branched rhizome of Java Fern is indicated by the arrows in this picture.[/center:acef3b7982]

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[center:acef3b7982]Lace Java Fern - Microsorium pteropus var. 'Windløv'[/center:acef3b7982]

Personal Experiences with Microsorium pteropus

I remember the first time I ever saw Java Fern. It was back in the mid-1980s in a tank filled with brilliantly colored Rainbow Fish. I was so fascinated by this plant that I totally ignored the fish! It wasn't until I set up my latest tank, however, that I actually tried to grow this plant.

True to its reputation, Java Fern is very easy to grow. It will tolerate almost any water conditions and most light levels. I started out with a beautiful rhizome cutting from a friend's aquarium and it has grown considerably in the few months that I've had it.

Planting Particulars

When planting Java Fern in an aquarium there are some important considerations to keep in mind.

First of all, Microsorium pteropus does not use its roots to take nutrients from the soil. Rather, it absorbs the vast majority of the materials it needs directly from the water. This means that heavily-fertilized substrate is not particularly beneficial for Java Fern.

Secondly, the roots of Java Fern are primarily used to attach the plant to the substrate. Many people like to attach Java Fern to a piece of rock or driftwood. The easiest way to do this is to use a piece of thread or fishing line to tie the rhizome of the plant into place on the object where you want it to grow. Eventually the roots of the fern will grow into any irregularities of the surface and the plant will be held firmly in place. You can then cut the thread or simply leave it in place. Some people prefer black thread for this because it blends in better with the fern's roots.

If you choose to plant Microsorium pteropus on the actual aquarium substrate then it is essential that you do not bury the rhizome. The easiest thing to do is use some small rounded pebbles to weigh the plant down at various points on the rhizome until the roots can anchor the plant to the substrate. The type of substrate isn't important.

In my aquarium I have Java Fern growing directly on a regular gravel substrate. I was fortunate in that the piece I started with was large enough that it held itself in place until the roots anchored into the gravel. Though I use Flourish Tabs for many of my plants I did not put one near the fern. I dose with Flourish and Flourish Excel and occasionally add Flourish Iron or Kent Micro and this seems to provide all the nutrients that the Java Fern requires.

The only problems I've experienced is some algae growth on the older fronds of the Java Fern but, between my Siamese Algae Eaters and my Otocinclus, this is kept fairly well in check.

Propagating Microsorium pteropus

Like all ferns, Java Fern reproduces via spore production. This method, however, is rarely successful in the normal aquarium. Fortunately, Microsorium pteropus has another fascinating method of asexual reproduction. This is the production of adventitious plantlets that form on the mature fronds. Tiny plants will sometimes cover almost the entire surface of a frond, though they more typically form at the frond's tips. After the plantlets have developed a few leaves and roots they may be removed from the adult plant and placed wherever you like. If you prefer, you can leave the plantlets on the mature fronds and they will eventually detach on their own.

It is also fairly common practice for people to cut the rhizomes of plants that are spreading vigorously. The pieces of the rhizome are then replanted. As long as the cut pieces are not allowed to rot they will soon attach themselves to the spot where they are planted.

Other Observations

Java Fern is one of the few plants that is recommended for use in a tank with herbivorous fish and/or cichlids. Its tough, leathery fronds seem to be unappealing to most fish. There are some reports that the fronds have a bad taste or that they are poisonous. I have heard that Tinfoil Barbs and Pacus will munch on Java Fern but haven't been able to confirm or refute this.

Microsorium pteropus can also be used in the alkaline, hard-water tanks that are set up for African Rift Lake cichlids. It has also been kept successfully in brackish water tanks, though growth is slowed considerably.

Java Fern also makes an excellent terrarium/paludarium plant as long as it is given high humidity and its roots are kept moist.

Overall, the Java Fern (Microsorium pteropus) makes a nearly ideal live plant for practically any aquarium and almost every aquarist from beginner to advanced will find it very easy to grow. I recommend it very highly.

References

Ines Scheurmann, 1993. Aquarium Plants Manual - Selecting and maintaining water plants in large and small aquariums. Barron's Educational Series, Inc.

Pablo Tepoot, 1998. Aquarium Plants - The Practical Guide. New Life Publications, Florida.

J.R.Croft, 1986. 'The Aquatic Pteridophytes of Papua New Guinea.' On-line article available at http://www.anbg.gov.au/projects/fern/aquatic/introduction.html

Razali Jaman and A. Latiff, 1998. 'On Some Pteridophytes of Sayap-Kinabalu Park, Sabah.' ASEAN Review of Biodiversity and Environmental Conservation. Available on line in pdf format at: http://www.arbec.com.my/pdf/june-4.pdf

Lilliane Moeremans. On-line article on Java Fern available at: http://www.angelicus-terraqua.com/articles/microsorium_pteropus_eng.htm
 
Nice post.

I let a mass of hornwort slowly come to rest on my java fern and after 3 weeks of the hornwort thoroughly filtering nutrients out of the water (I didn't bother to move the hornwort since I figured the java fern didn't need very much light anyway) my java fern was completely destroyed. I had 1 remaining leaf at about 50% health and 2 other leaves at about 25% health. Now the java fern has completely recovered (1 month later) and it has grown back more leaves than it originally had. Additionally, it has now begun to grow many "baby" ferns on the leaves which were heavily damaged.

It is indeed a hardy plant as long as it can get its nutrients.
 
...another lesson to learn with Java Fern:

It is affected by prolonged exposure to high heat (87 degrees). I am treating my tank for ich and while my hygrophila, hornwort and moneywort seemed to grow faster than normal up to 85 degrees (then they went back to normal growth rate at 87 degrees) the java fern began to slow down the warmer it became. Now at 87 degrees for 1 week and 1 day the leaves are beginning to lose their "thickness" and becoming nearly translucent in spots. Growth looks to have stopped or slowed to a pace that is no longer visible. I can't wait to finish the ich treatment and lower the temps back down (and neither can the java fern).
 
Good information, patryuji. I've never tried keeping Java Fern at temperatures much above 82 F. Are you using any copper-based medications for the ich treatment or just heat?
 
Just heat. No meds...didn't want to kill off my shrimp (well the ghosts become snacks quite quickly but the bamboo must live!).

No salt either...though I have read that you can keep java ferns in brackish water I don't want to kill off my other plants.
 
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