New Sailfin Tang and Dispar Anthias!!!

[rive1404]

I recently acquired a harem of Dispar Anthias and a somewhat small Sailfin Tang. I was initially afraid of buying the Anthias as they are typically skiddish and are difficult to get eating, but both the Sailfin and Anthias ate immediatel; like pigs at that. Thought I would share with the rest of AA.

The Tang has a small indention at the base of his lateral line, which I'm assuming is HLLE. Hopefully nothing a little nori and Emerald Entree can't fix.

Thanks for looking!

 

[melosu58]

Nice looking anthias and tang. What size tank is this in? Make sure you read up on the anthias as they will need to be fed a few times a day which could foul up your tan. Frequent PWC`s will be needed.

 

[rive1404]

Nice looking anthias and tang. What size tank is this in? Make sure you read up on the anthias as they will need to be fed a few times a day which could foul up your tan. Frequent PWC`s will be needed.

They are currently in a trial 75 gallon reef tank. After a few weeks I will move them to my 220 gallon reef tank. I quarantine my fish in 2 steps:
1.) They are dipped in 15 seconds in a 5 gallon Methylene Blue solution, then are put into a 20 gallon tank with a slight presence of iron. In the 20 gallon they are monitored for any visible parasites or deformations. And this is the tank where I make sure they eat. If they check out, then I dip them one more time in Methylene Blue and move them to the 75 gallon tank.
2.) In the 75 I monitor them for several weeks for any signs of deformations, illnesses, or eating disorders. If everything looks ok, then they go to my 220 and live happily ever after.

And as for feeding, I feed the tanks 4 times a day.
1.) A nice hefty breakfast of Emerald Entree and Brine Shrimp (soaked in Selcon)
2.) Around 1:00 p.m. my dad feeds them with just a little bit of color enhancing pellets
3.) Around 4:00 p.m. I feed them with a mix of Spirulina flakes and color enhancing flakes.
4.) A big dinner of Cyclopeez and Mysis or Brine shrimp.

Hopefully 4 times is enough and the foods I provide are nutritional enough to sustain their needs. I do 25% PWC every Saturday.

I'd like to try my look with more Anthias. I originally ordered 5 Purple Queen Anthias, but I cancelled them and switched for Dispar since I read they were so hard to get to eat and I don't have the best luck getting fish to eat at first.

 

[DallasFish]

Excellent fish, congratulations!

 

[rob28]

the tang is beautiful!

 

[melosu58]

Feeding 4 times a day be prepared to do some frequent PWC`s. I hope you have a good skimmer as you`ll really see some excessive nutrients if you dont.

 

[Innovator]

Might as well deworm while you are at it

 

[rive1404]

Might as well deworm while you are at it

What's the best way to go about deworming them?

 

[Innovator]

Answered in a previous post: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f16/internal-parasites-103417-2.html

 

[rive1404]

Thanks! I will definitely begin doing this with all my fish. I have the worst luck with O. Clownfish. I think they all die because of worms and internal parasites. I've probably gone through 3 pairs in 3 months and I think I've given up on Clownfish.

 

[Innovator]

No problem. To be honest with you, the Methylene Blue probably isn't doing as much as you think it is. Although the possibility of parasite removal is evident, in order to be effective there must be a prolonged immersion of roughly 3 treatments every other day for 30mins. in fw and depending on the concentration (different brands may have different concentrations). This really wouldn't do a whole lot against ich, marine velvet, etc. A better alternative would be to treat using hyposalinity right off the bat. Although this will eradicate ich, it does nothing against velvet, but at least you can rule out one or the other unless you go the copper route (Cupramine). While the fish are in hypo you can deworm them and if any other illnesses set in you can setup a bath routine in a bucket or your second quarantine tank

 

[rive1404]

I just ordered a new refractometer, so hyposalinity will definitely be part of my QT process in the near future. I keep the 20 gallon QT water in a Methylene Blue solution that is relatively weak, but just enough to turn the water blue. I've only had an ich outbreak once and that was with a fish I didn't quarantine (clown tang)...I know...not smart. It eventually died and took a few fish with it, so lesson learned...QT ALL fish. Thanks for the advice though, I'm always looking for ways to improve my QT methods as you can never be too careful in this hobby.

 

[Innovator]

Longterm solutions of Meth. in a stock tank will destroy your nitrifying bacteria so do watch that as well and provide extra aeration Good for you in proactive quarantine

 

[rive1404]

Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks for the heads up! Good thing I usually only keep the fish in there for a few days at most. Will definitely keep that in mind.

 

[ezy33]

IMO how much stress can you put a fish through? I don't quarantine, I just introduce into the tank they will live in. If they show signs of problems I dose with garlic. I put it on the food or in extreme cases directly into the aquarium. While I have no problem with the quarantine process I think each time you move a fish, you stress the fish all over again. Stress = compromised immunity and you leave them open to all sorts of maladies. Just my opinion.

PS love your/my Sailfin Tang!

 

[rive1404]

Haha...Sailfins are great aren't they? I've also boggled around the idea of skipping the QT process, but it really came back to bite me. I too was under the impression that stress is more of the killer than the actual parasite. My QT tank is mainly to teach the fish how to eat properly and hopefully eradicate any external parasites. I soak all my fish food in garlic every time I feed them as I believe it helps build their immune systems. My LFS has a 125 reef tank where they quarantine NO fish, and they've had great luck with their tank. Then again, as a seller, they get a "discount" on the fish they receive and they don't really put as much of a gamble as the customers do. So for me, QT is the way to go. If I see the fish is suffering from extreme stress, then I usually just skip this step and put them in the trial 75 gallon.

 

[Innovator]

Most of the time their immune systems are already compromised from the stress of capture, transhipping, wholesaler, shipping, retailer, and recapture/sale. The wholesaler and especially retailer have a large % of already introduced and repopulating parasites and other diseases affecting all fish within the flow-through systems (most lfs' filter this way). In essence, it is wise to assume you are purchasing a compromised animal that needs initial treatments; otherwise, direct aquarium placement can wreak havoc if all fish are later infected by random maladies. A strong immune system is indeed important, but quarantine allows for protocols in a controlled environment whereas the main display is quite the opposite

 

[rive1404]

Most of the time their immune systems are already compromised from the stress of capture, transhipping, wholesaler, shipping, retailer, and recapture/sale. The wholesaler and especially retailer have a large % of already introduced and repopulating parasites and other diseases affecting all fish within the flow-through systems (most lfs' filter this way). In essence, it is wise to assume you are purchasing a compromised animal that needs initial treatments; otherwise, direct aquarium placement can wreak havoc if all fish are later infected by random maladies. A strong immune system is indeed important, but quarantine allows for protocols in a controlled environment whereas the main display is quite the opposite

^^^^ This guys me new hero. haha.

 

[Ziggy953]

Beautiful fish!

 

[OniTweak]

Any way we can get some pictured of your 220?