Setting up a new Cory tank 90g

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That's how my 55g started, just 12 shrimp. Housed with cpd, emeralds, and purple harlequin rasbora. I can see over 20 -30 at any given time. Babies and adults. But I didn't see any when I first put them in bc, as you pointed out, they hid for a couple months until their population was bigger, then one day I had a bunch of shrimp again. I only keep one kind of shrimp in there but they still changed color.

I will have to be more careful with this tank as I don't have hollow driftwood in it like the other tank. Maybe a few clumps of Moss will protect them while they populate?

Many things to consider, thanks for the advice. I'm no expert so if I'm sounding like "I know it all", I apologize. :)

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Some people cull the shrimp that don't have the certain color so they don't breed with the "real" ones, and therefore keep the line pure....

Don't worry you're fine:)

Moss will definitely help, as well as putting a sponge by the filter intake.
 
They shouldn't change color much, it's more having different kinds/colors mate will lead to wild colored offspring.

Just remembered, they do try to fit in with their surroundings, so if you keep them on white substrate they'll have a more full color than on black or dark substrate... That could also be the case.

Pick a good quality Yellow Fire or Orange Sakura (I'd go with Orange or even a Rili), both would pop on plants or rocks.

I think the above was mistakenly noted backwards, yes color tries to match the substrate or surroundings to some degree. BUT Darker with black/darker substrate and lighter with white substrate.

Shrimp of color morphs - some more than others, tend to need culling for maintaining optimum color, some severe culling. Males tend to be lighter color than females as well.

With such a large tank you can maximize your school or fish selection by choosing beautifully colored fish so they are impactful visually on their own, or a school of fish with some color as the group all together would be interesting to observe.

Just consider the shapes of the fish as well in case you might consder a couple options like two or more schools, for example a Neon body shape vs. a Harlequin body shape, are more interesting together than 3 schools with Rummy nose, Neons and Glowlight tetras (bascally same body shape).
 
Oops yes tiara what I meant, the colors are darker and more intense on a black substrate, while on a white substrate they'll be a bit more dull.
 
You can put Cholla wood chunks/sticks around the bottom of the tank for shrimp hiding. Shrimp love them. They float awhile unless you boil them, personally haven't boiled them but let them sink on their own.
 
They shouldn't change color much, it's more having different kinds/colors mate will lead to wild colored offspring.

Just remembered, they do try to fit in with their surroundings, so if you keep them on white substrate they'll have a more full color than on black or dark substrate... That could also be the case.


IME my RCS looked best on Black sand. They looked pale on lighter substrate.


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Thanks for the insight folks, it is much appreciated. I am leaning toward orange Sakura shrimp.

At one point I was considering the nothobranchius rachovii killifish (instead of a smaller fish like pygmy hatchets) bc they have awesome color but am not sure they swim in the top half of the tank, and I want my corys to have reign over the substrate. Also they might make keeping shrimp more difficult. Any ppl here keep killis?

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Yeah, I think those are annuals. Killifish are natural predators and some get pretty big. I don't know if I'd add them to this tank. Plus, they roam all around and don't just stick to the top even though they are supposed to be top dwellers. Some easy beginner ones that are fairly peaceful are golden wonder killies.
 
Oooh those killifish are gorgeous!!! Too bad they only live a few months!

Wow only a few months! Looks like they are too predatory for my as well.

I have a line on a good deal for an aquaclear 110 that I'm going to pair with my canister filter. Can I use it for biological filtration mostly? I was thinking of filling it with seachem matrix and hyposorb? or purigen. Covering the intake with a sponge or something.



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Yup a Lot of killifish only live 6-10 months, as in the wild the puddles they live in dry up for ~half the year! It's fascinating actually there eggs can be stored dry for months and then with the rain they hatch, but not all do(because sometimes it will dry up again), so if you do it artificially you have to redry the non hatched eggs and wait a week and try again!
Truly magnificent!


AquaClears are fully customizable, so you can add anything you want...
 
Ok, so I filled the tank and installed the new aqua clear 110 using filter media from my 306 that is running on the temporary 10 gallon. Problem is I'm not sure when I can add my corys to it. The filter they are using is cycled, but the ac110 is not and after 4 days it looks like I have a bacterial bloom (cloudy water) in the 90g. Is it safe to install the cycled 306, then move the corys or do I now have to wait until the bloom is gone and the ac110 is cycled as well?

Current ammonia lvls are below 2ppm with just the ac110 running and no fish, but the water is cloudy, indicating the start of a cycle. Will it clear up once I move the cycled filter in, or will my fish die? I'm thinking I can move them in, forgo feeding til ammonia is 0 again...I'm just not sure about the cloudy water as they've never been in cloudy water before.

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Ammonia is at 0.5 - 1.0ppm and nitrites at 0. Nitrates between 10-20 which is normal for our tap water. The water is clearer than it was yesterday so after today, if parameters stay the same, I am going to install the 306. Will my fish be OK for a few hours in the 10 gallon with just the air pump going?

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My next dilemma is choosing an appropriate led. At 26" deep, I'm concerned the current sat + I was going to buy won't be enough light even for low light plants.

I have one on my 55 but when I moved it to the 90, at its brightest it seemed dark.

Will the finnex ray 2, finnex 24/7 or the current plus pro be brighter?

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You might want to run the air pump with the fish and a heater as well so they don't get chilled, but to err on the side of cooler than too warm. The cycled 306 will be automatically cycled enough to still handle the ammonia as it had done previously.

The 110 will take about a month to build good BB are you continuing to run them together? -forever or just til the 90 is good to go?
 
They will be run together for ever...until I convince my wife next year that I need another tank :)

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I emptied the 90 and am filling it halfway with ro water currently. I'm also changing the filter over now and will have it running while I catch all my fish. Before they're transferred to the 90 I will fill the second half of the tank with tap. I'm going to drip acclimate them for an hour before letting them loose. I feel like that should ensure a safe transfer. Then I'm going to order an led....just need to figure out which one.

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