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Old 01-08-2007, 02:44 AM   #1
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Bloody red LR

Tank size: 75 Gallon
60 lbs LR
20 Gallon Refugium with Grape Calerpa
Brand new 4x65 W PC Aqualight
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 20ppm

1 Blue Tang
1 Yellow Tang
1 Flame angel
2 Clowns
1 Emperor Angel
1 Decorated Goby
1 Bi Color Angel
5 Hermit Crabs

Enclosed are pictures of my tank. Fishes are healthy, Tank is clean except the LR in the tank turned bloody red color for a while now and I have no idea what it is. I have read some article about cyanobacteria so I ordered some CHEMI CLEAN trying to fix it with no success. During PWC, I took them out and scrubbed with a steel brush to clean but 3 days later, it turned back to bloody red again. Any idea what it is ? Please advise. Thanks.
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File Type: jpg pic1_206.jpg (57.8 KB, 31 views)
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:17 AM   #2
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i'm not sure, but i do know if you get this posted in the identification section you'll get a ton more help. good luck though
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:21 AM   #3
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Thanks Steve, is there a way to move this post to identification section or I have to submit a new one ?
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:19 AM   #4
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actually, I removed the duplicate post. This is cyano and there is a nice article in the articles area that has some nice information on how to take care of it. NItrates are food for cyano as are phosphates. Daily siphoning and frequent water changes will help you eradicate the problem. If you have no corals, I would also suggest lights off (totally) for several days to a week.
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:20 AM   #5
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Yes it's Red Slime Algae aka cyanobacteria. I've never used CHEMI CLEAN but it's just a band aid approach to the bigger problem of excess nutrients which feed it.

Your tank is currently a little overstocked and will worsen as your fish get larger. Feeding so many fish and their waste is the main factor contributing to your algae.

I'm sure you are aware that the Blue Tang will reach 12" and the Emperor Angel to 15"

Do you have a po4 & kh test kit? Need to know those levels also.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:58 AM   #6
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I agree that the problem might persist as the fish get bigger. You`ll need to upgrade your tank or trade some of your fish as they get bigger. But for now here is a link on cyano.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...q=2&fldAuto=48
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Old 01-08-2007, 01:00 PM   #7
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Thank you all for quick reply.

Actually, I never test for phosphates and wonder what is the best brand test kit to get ?????

Yes, The nitrate level in this tank used to be very high ( over 100ppm) until I added the refugium 3 weeks ago, 50% PWC and put the grape calerpa in it to reduce to 20ppm.

Yes, I realize that my tank is a little overstocked, that's why I added a refugium, the water underneath the tank gives an extra 30 gallons and the Blue Devil in the refugium will be gone for adoption (too aggressive toward my flame angel)

As mentioned above, I scrubbed the LR with a steel brush and rinse with the old salt water but it keeps coming back, I then took some of the rocks and bleach them with boiled water to completely remove the red stuff then put them in the wet/dry sump.

I also plan to buy another 60 lbs of cured Carribbean LR to replace the LR I have in the tank but I am afraid the problem will re-appear. Should I bleach the old LR to completely rid of the red stuff then recycle with the new LR without disturbing the bio filtration ? any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-08-2007, 01:33 PM   #8
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The Salifert Phosphate Test Kit is one of the best. I also just started using the AP po4 test kit which takes a little longer (3 min) to give results then the Salifert but works just as good IMO.

Ideally you want to have 0 levels of po4 in your tank to keep algae from growing. High no3 levels will fuel it also but traces of po4 feed it more IME.

Usually po4 accumulates over time and is added to the tank by uneaten food or some frozen that hasn't been rinsed after thawing. Tap/well water can also contain po4.

No need to bleach or use chemicals IMO. Over time if you reduce your po4 to 0 or at least below .05 ppm and keep your no3 at or below 20 ppm then the algae will starve itself out.

Reducing your light schedule helps also since the red slime reproduces through photosynthesis which leads me to ask when the last time your bulbs have been replaced?

To reduce po4 you can either do multiple pwc with po4 free water or use chemical/mechanical filtration to remove it like Poly filter or ROWAphos for example.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:04 PM   #9
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Thanks, tecwzrd
I'll do what you suggest. My light fixtures is brand new (2 week old) and contains 2X65W actinic and 2X65W which lead me to ask you: Do I have enough lighting ?????
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:12 PM   #10
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Lighting for fowlr or for reef? If for reef you have enough to stock most medium light corals.

PC bulbs should be replaced around 7-9 months (depending on lighting schedule) due to spectral shift in lighting that favors algae.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hara
I would also suggest lights off (totally) for several days to a week.
This was an excellent idea also. My only suggestion is that if you dont reduce your bio load or find a way to combat it then you`ll most likely continue with algea problems. I hope all goes well.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:48 AM   #12
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OK. I went to LFS and get an AP test kit ( they dont carry the Salifert kit), this kit includes tests for Calcium, Kh, Nitrate and phosphate. And the results are as follows:

Calcium: 520
Kh: 11
Phosphate : 2ppm
Nitrate: 10ppm

I am a little confused about the Nitrate. I did the test with the new solution just bought and it read 10ppm and with the old solution bought about a year ago from the same brand and it read 20ppm. Why's the difference ? is there an expired date for these test kits ????

In addition, I also test for phosphate the fresh water that I use for topping off and found out that it contains 1 ppm. The fresh water is coming out from the filter unit that I bought for drinking, the picture of this unit is enclosed, the labels on it are Pre filter, Post filter and Carbon filter. Is this what you call "RO/DI" unit, if it is not, can it be converted into an RO/DI ??? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:43 AM   #13
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Your ca is a bit high, 400-420 ppm is more ideal. Do you add ca to your tank?

I've used AP for over 10 years and have noticed that after a while the no3 test does read higher over a year or so. I have read that they have a life span of around 3 years but we have no idea how long they sit on a shelf at the lfs before we buy it.

Your po4 level is very high and you need to get it to 0 ppm. A PhosBan Reactor along with PhosBan/pump can get it to 0 within a week IME.

You have a RO filtration unit. RO water filters most harmful elements out of tap but does little to remove po4. You can get a DI Add-On Kit for around $50 which will make your water pure.
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:26 PM   #14
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Yes, you are completely right, I did add B-Ionic Calcium buffer, trying to get Coral Algae to grow. That leads to another question: How do I lower the Calcium level to 400 - 420 ppm ???

Since DI Add-On Kit cost $50, I was looking at the whole RO/DI unit on EBAY
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-100...QQcmdZViewItem
for around $100. Is this unit good enough in your opinion ???

With Phosban Reactor, can I put Phosban and Kent Marine Nitrate Sponge together in there to reduce both Nitrate & Phosphate ?

Thanks again, You guys are A-1
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:33 PM   #15
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I bought that exact RO/DI, make sure you get the one that comes with the spare filters/membranes. Take plenty of pics and let me know how to set it up! LOL! I tried this past weekend, but wasn't feeling too great, so I didn't put much effort into it.
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Old 01-09-2007, 02:11 PM   #16
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Just doing regular pwc weekly will lower your ca levels naturally.

Most from ebay are fine. Only a tds meter knows for sure if that unit is good or not.

The Reactor is just a holder of any media so yes you can combine all media types without issue.
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:06 PM   #17
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OK, I got the Phosban Reactor, it's been in the sump for couple of days now, I hope it will reduce the phosphate level to 0 ppm.

Lights off since last posted except when feeding.

Roka64, I finally decided to get another unit, it costs $115 but it has dual outputs (for both drinking, Aquarium and Reef), I also bought a floater for topping off, $16.50. So I guess you have to install your Unit yourself.

Here's the picture of the unit if anybody is planning to buy one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/WaterGeneral-RO6...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 01-13-2007, 01:00 AM   #18
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I know this is totally different from what you are talking about, but I wanted to know how much your emperor angel cost? I was at my LFS today, and they had one but it was just under $100. I thought the fish looked awesome, but a little too high for me right now.
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Old 01-13-2007, 01:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by topgundcp

I am a little confused about the Nitrate. I did the test with the new solution just bought and it read 10ppm and with the old solution bought about a year ago from the same brand and it read 20ppm. Why's the difference ? is there an expired date for these test kits ????

yes they have a life span of 1 year . and then it always shows 20ppm
had the same prob with the tetra test kits

hope that helps
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Old 01-13-2007, 03:35 AM   #20
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I know this is totally different from what you are talking about, but I wanted to know how much your emperor angel cost? I was at my LFS today, and they had one but it was just under $100. I thought the fish looked awesome, but a little too high for me right now.
I only paid $39.99 + Tax for it, so it's roughly $43. I am from the Bay Area (San Francisco). This is the only place that I find the prices are reasonable, some other place wants $60 for it
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