Green Algae ...cant get rid of it!

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DirtyJBJ45

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
5
So after reading some of the other posts about other peoples algae problems, I didnt see anything like mine.


Issues: GREEN ALGAE - (See Attached)


Aquarium: JBJ 45 RL
(2) HYDOR 240 GPH
(1) 800 GPH Pump for Wet Dry Return
(2) Media Reactors - 1 Carbon, 1 Phospan
(1) Chiller (temp at 78)
(1) Hydor ATO
(1) Current USA Pro LED Lighting - Lighting is on a 7 hr daily schedule at 20% intensity)

Tank mates:

(2) Clowns
(1) Blue Tang
(1) Rainbow wrasse
(1) Coral Banded Shrimp
(1) Sea Cucumber

and the cleanup crew (See Below)

Maintenance: 5 gallon Water Changes weekly

Marine Water from local store, RO water from local store.

Todays Test:

PH: 8.4
Nitrates: 0.0
Nitrites: 0.0
Ammonia: 0.0
DKH: 8.0
Phosphates: 0.0
Calcium: over 520 (took me like 21 drops in test kit for the color to change to purple on my kit.)

Things I have tried to get rid of the green stuff:

Clean up crew:

(6) Emerald Crabs
(6) Turbo Snails (Large)
(6) Hermit Crabs (Small) - they killed the snails

VIBRANT Algae remover from some company that claims it will kill algae in 12 hrs or less.

I have tried scrubbing the algae off the rocks, thats a waste of time it keeps coming back.

I bought the media reactors, as some people stated in forums that it will remove the phosphates , then eliminating algae.

BTW, the algae has only been present for the last 4 months, before that it was never there. Tank is 2 years old.

Everything is normal with the other settings in tank, please help. :banghead:

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First the water is most likely bringing in nutrients. If it isn't ro/di then it has something in it. I have the same going on with my water and have algae.
Large water changes with to/di water will bring down the nutrients in the water column that the large amount of algae is simply giving you a false reading on as it strips it from the water column.
You can also cut back on feeding.
Also, I dont believe that this tank is large enough for a tang, let alone one with other tank mates. Big fish = big poop and lots of nutrients in the water column.


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first thing you need to do is find the source of all the excess nitrates and phosphates ,
big water changes say your phosphates are 20ppm 50% water change will drop them to 10ppm. doing this a few times while manually removing the hair and sucking it out .

Algae control in salt water tanks - Aquarium Advice

So the Nitrates are non existent, and the Phosphates are non existent. I did a magnesium test this evening and its reading 1385, where a normal reading is between 1300 and 1500.

I bought some Red Sea NO3:pO4-X Nitrate & Phosphate Reducer, and started dosing the tank this evening. At the suggestion of my local aquarium store.

The aquarium store made a suggestion that I should dose the tank with magnesium, if the levels were below 1200 ppm. And as it turns out it is 1385 ppm.

Last week I did a 15 gallon change, but I guess I should have done a 22.5 gallon chage that would have been a 50 % change.

As for the the other tests, everything else is normal.

I even went as far as testing the Salt water from the store, and it was 0.0 ppm Phosphates. The RO/DI fresh water wasnt checked, as I didnt have anymore to test. I will do so tomorrow.
 
The RO/DI water that i use for my ATO, has not been tested yet. However the salt was tested this morning. 0.0 ppm Phospates.

As to the Tang, its a Juvenile 3 Inches in size, the 2 clowns are less than 2 inches each, the wrasse is maybe 1 1/2 - 2 inches, and the rest are cleanup crews less than 1 inch each.

As for the feedings, the tank gets 2 small feedings per day.

The LED lights are only producing 20% illumination.

I will post updates, as I see any changes. See other Reply too.
 
The age of the fish doesn't really change much unfortunately.
But the main cause of your algae is the feedings. There is no need to feed twice a day. People who feed once on a daily basis have some pretty heavy filtration on their systems to remove the nutrients that they are putting into the system. It is just fine to feed once every other day.
Algae issues can be a long and lengthy process. This will require manual removal of the algae and large water changes to bring down the nitrates and phosphates. As it stands, you are reading 0 on the tests due to the algae consuming it and isn't too unheard of.
I do like Red Sea's product that your LFS suggested to you. It can help speed this process up some, but you will still need to drastically cut back on feeding to get in front of this issue.
 
So I read your post, and I will take your suggestion and reduce feedings to just once a day. If I don't see a noticeable change in a weeks time, I will reduce to once every other day.

Something interesting I discovered this morning, the RO/DI water I get from my LFS near my home (not the LFS that sold me the NO POX) had an interesting Phosphate reading. (see pic)

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This Phosphate test was used (by API) and shows at 3 minutes, from test start.

What is your reading of this....it looks high to me.

What should I do? As I have 10 gallons of this in my ATO. and 5 gallons left in reserve.

Im thinking that I will get LFS to show me a Phos test on all their water they are selling.
 
Okay decided to do another Magnesium test this morning, it appears that the Magnesium this morning is just under 1500 ppm. So this algae problem appears to be Phosphate related or Food Related. I am going to reduce feedings to once every other day. Continue the NoPox and have the RODI Water tested before buying it.
 
Feeding every other day will not harm your fish. I have been doing it that way for 17+ years. I have some of my fish that have been there from the beginning . Maybe for your tang you can put some freeze dried seaweed.
 
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