Newbie Update - Water Test results

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oo7cable

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
71
Hey guys!
A little update on my tank condition.

salinity 1.022
NH3 0.6
NO3 10
Ca 500
Kh 150
NO2 0.1

I assume all are in ppm....

And I finally got some lighting! T5 HO 4x54watts 50/50 (10K).
How should I cycle my lighting? So far I have it running from 8am-8pm. Too much?

Can someone help me pick out a RO/DI system. I dont need anything really fancy, just something to do about 5-10gal water change per day.

And can some please explain to me how I can make a sump without drilling holes in my tank. Is there anyway I can get a hang on overflow box or something like that? I would love to change up my filtering system, but I really dont know how sumps work!

Last, but not least. whats a good powerhead as far as GPH flow for my tank?

Thanks!
Josh
 
It looks like your tank may be overstocked, if you have 12 fish in there. I would think about taking the damsels back, they can become agressive.

oo7cable said:
How should I cycle my lighting? So far I have it running from 8am-8pm. Too much?
For FOWLR, you can probably run them 8-10 hours. I run mine from 2-10PM.
oo7cable said:
Can someone help me pick out a RO/DI system.
There is one on ebay, sorry I don't have the link, that a lot of folks like, for around $100.
I don't have a sump, yet so I can't help you there, but here are some ideas from fosterand smith:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+22768
Here are some suggestions for phs:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113040
I like the SEIOs, I have 2 620s in my 55G (Personally, I think these are kind of bulky for a 55G). I have 4 820s in my 125G.
I am thinking about a Penguin or Maxi-Jet Powerhead, these have an adjustable flow diffuser, where the Hagen AquaClear does not. I find the dufusers useful when directing flow to specific areas.
 
I actually just purchased a hang on overflow for my 40gallon tank off of ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=160051153840&rd=1&rd=1

it was a great deal since this is carbon copy design of the CPR model but for half the price. The overflow is rated at 600gph and it comes with a lift pump to maintain the continous siphon. The overflow is what removes the water from your tank, so you don't need to drill any glass.
 
Thanks mel! I didn't have that bookmarked, and that is the one I was talking about. Bookmarked now!
 
Awesome guys thanks!

I only have 10 fish now, I took back a few.
So far they all seem happy :)

I waiting for replacement bulbs, as my new 10K's were burnt out. So Im running the Blue ones only. Im getting a good algae bloom. Its all brown. I assume this will subside in a week or so based on what Ive read.


As for the overflow, how much clearance do you need. and How do you pump the water back into your tank? powerhead? If so which one? And should I use a filter still with the sump? Or does the sump prety much replace all that. I know...dumb question, but I had to ask.

Oh, how much substrate should cover the bottom? I only have about 20lbs of crushed coral stuff. It only covers about 1-2 inches. And the fish sometimes "kick it up" so the glass shows.

Thanks again guys!

Josh
 
Personally, I would switch from CC to sand. I did it in my tank, and couldn't stand the CC, once it got dirty. It looks like you are still going through a cycle, or the increased bioload is causing stress and you are getting ammonia.
How old is your tank?
As for the algae, it could be diatoms, depending on the age of the tank.
 
My tank is about 1 1/2 years old. Ive always struggled with it though, always having high NO3. I do PWC once a week. Changing 20%. So why switch to sand? And how can I do that with my tank full?

As for the algae, this is the first week Ive had lighting, so I expected it. But I dont know when it wil go away. Its a brownis green color and easily whipes off the glass. My crabs seem to love it!

I know Im getting some ammonia from my tap water, but I use a conditioner that should remove it. I just dont really have the space for an RO/DI. But I think I might be able to get one anyway.

so over the last week, the fish seem happy and well, my LR is growing pretty good, and Im getting algae. I guess my tank is doing ok. I test the water about every 2 weeks. Should I test it more?

Thanks
Josh
 
Hmmm, those high nitrAtes, could be coming from your CC or your filter or your huge bioload.
Do you clean the sponges in your filter with old SW?
Do you vacuum your CC?
You have been running your tank for 1.5 years without lights? No big deal, but you should definitely expect an algae bloom, with the new lights.
I would keep testing the same, just to make sure your levels stay in check.

+++EDIT+++
If you are happy with the CC, and it is not causing problems, you can leave it in there. I did switch my CC to sand with a full tank. I just didn't like it as much as sand, there are plenty of folks that love it.
 
I just rinse out my sponges with tap water....
But I change them often.

No I dont vacum my CC at all....Is that bad?

I dont mind the way it looks, But I like the sand better. How did you change it out? Just start scooping?

And as for the lights, I couldnt afford them! I needed to eat......


EDIT -

I think I will change out the CC to playsand, however I cant find any info on how deep the substrate should be. 3-4 inches is my guess.....And do I need to add LS or can I skip that part?
 
oo7cable said:
No I dont vacum my CC at all....Is that bad?
It could be, that might be a source of your nitrAtes, since waste gets trapped in there.
oo7cable said:
How did you change it out? Just start scooping?
I would do it in sections. I did mine 1/3 of the tank at a time. I actually had sand and CC so I had to use a pasta strainer to get the CC out of the sand. I would also suggest to have a PWC ready, stirring up the substrate might cause a spike.
Sand substrate depth is a personal preference. I have about 2-3 inches in one tank and about 3-4 in my cycling tank.
 
oo7cable said:
I think I will change out the CC to playsand, however I cant find any info on how deep the substrate should be. 3-4 inches is my guess.....And do I need to add LS or can I skip that part?
Read the Substrate section of the stock list post. For 3" you're going to need 120 lbs of aragonite sand.

10 fish is the main reason why your no3 is high all the time. You have 20+" of total adult fish length and should be closer to 11" I know most of them are small 1" fish but it adds up and you will always battle no3 and algae with this high of a bio-load.

Sure vacuuming your CC and cleaning your canister weekly would help but until you reduce your fish count by half or buy a 100+ gal tank to house the fish you have you will have algae issues.
 
What are the dimensions of a standard 125gal tank?
Thanks for the replys guys, it helps a lot. Ive learned so much more on here in the past month than I have in the past year!

I think I will take back some damsels.
I also need a clean up crew, but I afraid my puffer would eat most of them.
Any suggestions?


Josh
 
Demensions on a standard 125G are 72x18x22.
If you are going this route, you could set up a fuge and have a cleaning crew in there.
As for a cleaning crew in the main, with a puffer, they will probably be snacks. I am not sure, but you MIGHT have luck with critters that burrow under the sand, but I am not too sure the puffer would find them or not.
 
Thanks for the dimensions, I might be able to squeeze that size tank in my place.

So my algae is growing like crazy!! Should I clean it off the glass or let it be?
 
I'll clean it tomorrow, and do PWC. Im also getting a lot of PODS. There hard to clean off, any suggestions?

Pics -
 

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From those pics, I would say you have some dead spots, which are helping it to grow. Can you adjust your phs or get an extra one, to point at it?
 
Yeah I definitatly need 2 more Power Heads! Heading out to the LFS later today.

Im gonna start the substrate swap also, I'll post up some pics later.
 
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