nitrates!

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epaz

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
183
Location
Grand Island, NE
I need advice I have had my 125 reef tank going for roughly six months now ever since the beginning my nitrates have literally read off the scales, I am using an API liquid test kit and all other params are good save my ammonia which just started to creep very little. Everything in the tank seems to be doing fine I haven lost any at least due to the high trates. I did a 60% pwc 2 days ago and it did absolutely nothing still read bright red. I am at a complete loss here. Help?
 
Can you take the water to a LFS for testing? I had issues with the API test. I ended up getting a different test. What type of filter are you using? I had an issue once and added a refugium and all is better.
 
I don't like api's test either try salifert or red sea and then see what the reading is
 
I have a wet/dry sump but instead of bi-balls I have lr rubble and a big hunk of chaeto
 
Are the rocks in the sump full of any gunk? If left with out any cleaning the rocks can accumulate particulate matter and that would be your nitrates right there. I had a similar issue in my biocube, no matter how many 50% water changes i did back to back the nitrates never moved from red. Turned out to ber my media bags with chemipure were trapping stuff and once I removed and put in a clean bag the nitrates went right down.
 
Also I took a water sample to my lfs and he used two separate liquid test on my water and they both showed yellow. Naturally I thought I had a bad test kit (it was really old) so I bought a new one (all they had was API) got home pitched the old one and tested still bright red with the new kit. I am seriously at a loss. There is a little gunk in my sump but not excessive.
 
Are you running a protein skimmer?
Whats the stocking on the tank?
How much are you feeding?
Before this 60% water change what was your normal water change schedule like?
How much live rock do you have?
How much flow does your tank have?
 
I am running a Skimmer although its small for my tank
Stocking I have 2 Oc clowns, 1 damsel, 1 dotty a large Kenya tree coral and a large colony of zoo polyps and a mixed bag cuc
Before this pwc I hadn't done any because I hadn't had a RODI unit.
I have 100+ lbs of live rock
 
I am not sure on my flow I am running 2 korralia 450 power heads for circulation if that's what you mean. Sorry I'm such a noob.
 
Also I took a water sample to my lfs and he used two separate liquid test on my water and they both showed yellow. Naturally I thought I had a bad test kit (it was really old) so I bought a new one (all they had was API) got home pitched the old one and tested still bright red with the new kit. I am seriously at a loss. There is a little gunk in my sump but not excessive.

Have you been precisely following the directions on the API nitrate test? 10 drops of bottle 1 and then shake for 5 seconds. Shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds and then add 10 drops. After that shake the tube for a full minute.

When you are shaking it needs to be very very vigorous.

I am running a Skimmer although its small for my tank
Stocking I have 2 Oc clowns, 1 damsel, 1 dotty a large Kenya tree coral and a large colony of zoo polyps and a mixed bag cuc
Before this pwc I hadn't done any because I hadn't had a RODI unit.
I have 100+ lbs of live rock

I've read your other threads really quick and all I can say is you're going to need WAAY more water changes. It's completely possible that your nitrates were over 240 without a single water change in 6 months. If you're still having issues with your RO/DI unit I would suggest forgetting it for the time being and do the large water changes with dechlorinated tap water. The tap will do less harm to your system than the nitrates will unless you have absolutely awful water with high levels of ammonia or nitrites. 2 or 3 more 50% water changes should take care of the issue.

I am not sure on my flow I am running 2 korralia 450 power heads for circulation if that's what you mean. Sorry I'm such a noob.

Your flow is way too low for your tank with those being your only powerheads. These are giving you 900gph of flow when at the very minimum I would aim for 2500gph in a 125g tank.
 
Wow thanks guys/gals I will get some better powerheads and seriously with what I have in the tank as far as stock dechlorinated tap will be OK to use just to get the nitrates down? I am working on a fix for my RODI unit but yes I understand I need to get the trates under control. I have tested my tap water and as far as ammonia, nitrates and other basic params its fine.
 
Wow thanks guys/gals I will get some better powerheads and seriously with what I have in the tank as far as stock dechlorinated tap will be OK to use just to get the nitrates down? I am working on a fix for my RODI unit but yes I understand I need to get the trates under control. I have tested my tap water and as far as ammonia, nitrates and other basic params its fine.

People freak out about tap water all the time however used short term it's perfectly fine as long as it's ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate free. I've been using nothing but tap for the past 7 months and haven't had any issues related to the use of it. However, I'm sure at this juncture I will catch flak for suggesting it to you.

I thought that with all my LR and chaeto I would have seen some difference by now.

The LR and chaeto is very dependent on the flow in the tank. If there isn't enough flow for the chaeto it won't grow as fast as it can as well as issues with live rock processing enough nutrients to be effective; especially as the flow breaks up over the rocks. How do you have your chaeto growing atm? What light do you have over it? Assuming that you have sufficient lighting I would suggest adding Grape Caulerpa into your refugium. It works much better at removing nitrates from your water compared to chaeto.

In your situation I personally would look at adding 2 Koralia evolution 1150s to your tank in addition to the two powerheads that you already have.

Hydor Koralia Evolution Pump - 1150

That should help immensely with the flow issue in your tank.
 
All I have now as far as light on the chaeto is a fluorescent aquarium hood and its growing like a weed. As far as flow in the tank with that many power heads won't it bother my fish? With just what I have it seems to have a pretty good "current" throughout the tank with 2 more in there that water is gonna be moving! That doesn't bother the fish?
 
It won't bother them in the slightest.. Saltwater fish handle high flow a lot better than fresh water fish. It's standard to keep a 10x - 40x tank volume turnover per hour in powerheads. Those 2 1150s and 2 450s will put you at 3200gph which is only about 25x the tank volume.
 
OK sounds good which brings me to my next dilemma which may need its own thread. How do you veteran reefers handle your electrical? I have only one outlet in the vicinity of my tank and have filled 2 surge bars with everything I already have running in the tank. I mean I'm a little nervous just having all that running. There really is no way of running any more wiring short of ripping my walls down. Ideas?
 
I agree with Mebbid on the tap water. For FOWLRs, it is okay and for reef , it is probably fine short term. I just filled my 240g with tap water and Prime. I figure a bunch will go out with the first PWC and then I'm using just RO.
 
I agree with Mebbid on the tap water. For FOWLRs, it is okay and for reef , it is probably fine short term. I just filled my 240g with tap water and Prime. I figure a bunch will go out with the first PWC and then I'm using just RO.
+1
tap water isnt as bad as most hobbyists would have you believe. i would never recommend using it long term thopugh
 
Awesome, that will help me reign in these nitrates asap until I figure my rodi unit out. Did anyone have any ideas on my electrical questions from above? Then I will leave you guys alone, promise! :)
 
epaz, thats an open subject. it really depends on the ameperage load that your setup pulls. obviously if you have a larger setup with several high powered MH lights, several powerheads, a skimmer, reactor, and several other pieces of equipment, you'd want to find a way to split that load onto 2 seperate breakers. however if have a relatively low amperage load (such as my 125 does) you can get away with using a single outlet. youd be surprised too. im running 400w of lighting, 2 powerheads, a mag18 return pump, 2-200w heaters, a skimmer, and a24"dual t5 light on a single outlet. sure some may say thats not safe but i can play my playstation, and run the vacuum at the same time without tripping anything. so it really depends on the load and the breaker system itself
 
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