Water change and sump idea for a 10g FOWLR.

[ultimatedc]

I did a water test tonight and I have 0.15PPM ammonia. My fish look very stressed but I can't do a water change until tomorrow afternoon. I have a few questions.

I buy bags of premixed saltwater. 5 gallon bags. If I were to change out the water in the tank for this water, what would I do if the bagged waters salinity didn't measure up to my salinity? Not to mention properly storing the bag and what not, temperature fluctations, evaporation, etc. The only thing I could think of doing in this situation is a 50% pwc that way I know I don't have to store the water.

Tap water. Can I use it for a 10g FOWLR? If so, I can mix about a gallon or so of water, and change it every other day until my ammonia reading comes down. I know it promotes algae, but I work at the LFS and I scrub algae all day anyway -_-

As for that, I also want to do a sump. My stand can maybe house a 5g sump, what exactly would I need? I want to go the cheapiest DIY way possible. My dad is a plumber so he could rig some PVC stuff, but I'd rather do it myself. He's usually out of town for work anyway.


Thanks for all the help

 

[Henry405]

You can always store premix saltwater as long as its closed tightly. A second heater is usually recommended to match the new SW's temp with the DT's temp.

Tap water can always be used, its just not recommended. Why not go to the grocery store and just buy distilled water to mix? its pretty cheap and much better than tap water.

Usually, a sump isn't needed on a small tank, but with such a small tank I'm not too sure. What do you plan on putting in the sump? 5g is super small

 

[ultimatedc]

I just want the sump to curve evaporation in the display tank as well as the increased volume. Couldn't really hurt. I'd be putting it in my cabinet stand which can only house a 5 gallon tank.

 

[Henry405]

what do you mean by "curve" evaporation? as in you can't tell its evaporating?

Are you only planning to have only a return pump in the sump then?

 

[ultimatedc]

Yes, so my sump evaporates, not my main tank. At least this way salt buildup shouldn't be as high as it is now.

I don't really know. I'm looking to do a cheap DIY setup in a 5 gallon tank. I don't know much about them which is why I want some ideas and info and some how tos.

 

[Henry405]

Actually, since the water is cycling through your tank, even if evaporation happens in your sump, your salinity still drops. The water is connected. Compounds (salt) move from high concentration to low concentration until it balances out.

The sump will prob cost you more than its worth for your tank size

 

[ultimatedc]

I know that, but surely you can see the benefits? I may just re-convert back to tropical and setup my 20 gal. I have enough salt mix for my 20gal, I can buy a few more pieces of rock, and just get another filter... I have the 20g filter now and the 160gph powerhead.

Surely a better idea that running my 10g? Or should I just leave it be?

Bah, I think about this too much

 

[Henry405]

You would be much happier with the 20g, more water volume means larger margin for error, more space for fish, and also larger scene to enjoy.

 

[kurtyboh]

why not take the 10 and add that as a sump to the 20?

 

[ultimatedc]

"why not take the 10 and add that as a sump to the 20?"

Cause the 10g won't fit under my stand

Also, I kind of want the 10g to run instead of the 20, just because I don't want to repeat the cycling process...

Okay, well, my only problem with setting up the 20g is one, I don't know how much more equipment I need. So far I have..

10lbs of live rock, 160GPH powerhead, 20g filter running carbon and floss (Carbon for the tap water, floss because IDK it came with it), a 50w heater.

My other problem is I don't have lights for the 20g.

Anybody want to sell me some lights?

 

[kurtyboh]

Sorry i thought you had another stand for the 20