55 w/cracked bottom

[Floyd R Turbo]

So I have a friend who has a 55g, stand, filters, powerheads, and a whole bunch of other stuff he said I could just have for free. Only problem is the 55 got left for a winter with 1" of water in the bottom and it cracked the bottom pane, which I'm assuming is tempered glass. So what would I have to do to replace that pane?

If anyone has read my other thread about re-sealing a 37, you'll know that I've learned what to do and not to do with a general interior edge re-seal. This 55 would pretty much have to be torn all the way apart IMO, but I haven't looked at it yet. I might just be able to replace the bottom pane and leave the other joints alone, and just re-seal the inner edges after putting them back together.

What the heck, it's free. Just looking for some guidance.

Does the bottom HAVE to be tempered? Either way, what does the thickness of the glass have to be? If I wanted to drill the bottom and turn this into a SW tank, I wouldn't be able to use tempered I'm assuming.

 

[spoonman]

I have read in other threads that it is better to just put another piece of glass on top of the broken one if it is not completely smashed and pieces missing. If it is just cracked just cut a piece to fit on top and seal with silicone. Other chime in that know better, but I am sure I have read that.

 

[mfdrookie516]

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f20/diy-tank-repair-broken-bottom-glass-119616.html

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Hmm...interesting...I'll have to see how bad the crack is, but that makes total sense!

 

[spoonman]

We are a good team rookie.

 

[mfdrookie516]

We are a good team rookie.

thanks

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

The 55 in question has a crack that goes all the way across the bottom. Would it just be better to replace the glass? I'm pretty sure it's tempered, and my possible plan with this tank is turn set it up as a FOWLR or reef tank, so I may want drillable bottom glass. This, of course, depends on what the wife says...

 

[BillD]

If the tank has a crack across the glass, it is unlikely to be tempered, as it usually shatters. I would think that 1/4" glass would be sufficient as the tank is only 12" wide. Regardless, the glass does not need to be tempered. If the bottom is floating, that is on the inside of the tank, rather than under the sides, you can just remove the pieces, clean off the old silicone, and reseal the entire tank after siliconing the new piece in. Alternateively, you can leave the old piece in if it is only crackd, and put a new piece over it. The latter would be easier.

 

[spoonman]

I think it would be easier to just put another piece of glass over the cracked one. Also, you wouldnt be drilling the bottom glass for a FOWLR or reef tank would you?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I think it would be easier to just put another piece of glass over the cracked one. Also, you wouldnt be drilling the bottom glass for a FOWLR or reef tank would you?

I guess you wouldn't HAVE to drill the bottom, I could use a J or U tube, but if I'm going to do a sump figured it would be cleaner and easier to drill it.

 

[spoonman]

Arent the holes usually drilled in the back of the tank and not the bottom?

 

[mfdrookie516]

yeah, i dont think you want the bottom to be drilled... the overflows that are drilled on the tank are in a specific location depending on the volume of water that the sump will hold, that way if the electricity goes off, you dont flood your house, the overflow will simply lose its siphon when it gets too low

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Yeah, I understand that, but if you put in a stand pipe straight up from the bottom to the top of the tank and that's where the strainer is, you wouldn't drain out the tank if the sump quit. I've heard of people drilling the bottom so I thought I'd leave it as an option. I guess it would just involve an elbow up to the surface if I drilled the back below the water line. Same function.

I thought about the tempered glass issue, I supposed you're right, if there was a break the bottom would crumble into pieces instead of cracking. My current 55 and the 37 I am re-sealing both have "TEMPERED GLASS DO NOT DRILL" stamped on the so I thought it was standard, but this other 55 is pretty old, so maybe it's not.