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Old 10-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #21
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With the Fluval G series, you might just be able to do that.
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Old 10-26-2010, 04:11 PM   #22
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Yea, the Fluval G series has an LCD screen and microprocessors. But when it comes down to it - all of these bells and whistles on a filter are only there for people who would rather just "let a black box run their aquarium". A little know-how (sump/refugium) and a return pump can accomplish a lot of the same things for a ton less $$$.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:17 PM   #23
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As always, thanks for the input here guys.

My water does seem to be clearing steadily more and more each day, and I think it just needed time to continue or fully cycle, as had been suggested to me -- it's not so clear that it's transparent yet, but it may be on its way, and I may give it a little push with some Purigen soon...

Be that as it may, I'm still confused on the differences between these media and what I'm dealing with in regard to my Aqueon's cartridges -- I've often heard hobbyists speak of not replacing the media until it's "falling apart" but does that apply to the carbon/cotton cartridges associated with my Aqueon HOBs? How often do these cartridges need to be replaced -- if at all?
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:12 PM   #24
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basically you have 3 basic types of filtration mechanical: which is like a floss pad or sponge in your case its the white floss on the outside of the cartridge you have chemical: which is carbon or any thing that removes things from the water in your case that is the carbon inside the cartridges and you have biological: this part is the live bacteria that breaks down ammonia into nitrites then onto nitrates these bacteria are present on almost everything in your tank even the glass..in your case the blue pieces in your filter are just more surface area and same with the ceramic stuff people are telling your about iv even seen people use pot scrubbers (like sponges) to get more surface area..if you go this route you wont have to rinse or even touch it for up too 3 months i leave my ceramic beads in there for 6 months without buying new ones and only rinse every 3 ..so much cheaper .. so anyway basically what i have learned is that leaving your filter longer without rinsing is better and when you do rinse do to clogging or decrease flow..time it with a partial water change that way you can take your different components and just shake them in a bucket with tank water so it frees them of large debri but still keeps some of your live beneficial bacteria alive
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:21 PM   #25
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Thanks Loach,

But how often do I need to change these "cartridges" in my filters? Do I need to change them out completely and replace them with new ones, as the marketing folks at Aqueon, etc. suggest, or do I just take them out and rinse them, to put them back into the canister?
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:50 AM   #26
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i would rinse them in tank water (give em good shake) once a month and change em out maybe every 3 months
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:39 AM   #27
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I've heard arguments that one can let these sit until they "fall apart;" is this not recommended?

I will consider the 3-month schedule...thank you.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:12 PM   #28
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well i guess you could do that but watch your water quality do what works for you there are many factors too consider most important your bio load..(how many living things are in your aquarium and how big) that will determine it
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:23 PM   #29
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+1 for using them as long as they'll work. When I had a Penguin 200B and was running the factory cartridges, I'd rinse and reuse until I was cleaning the cartridge more than once a week. That filter has slots for two cartridges, so I'd only change one at a time.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:22 AM   #30
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well i guess you could do that but watch your water quality do what works for you there are many factors too consider most important your bio load..(how many living things are in your aquarium and how big) that will determine it
Well, I only have the three fish in there, no live plants...
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:22 AM   #31
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+1 for using them as long as they'll work. When I had a Penguin 200B and was running the factory cartridges, I'd rinse and reuse until I was cleaning the cartridge more than once a week. That filter has slots for two cartridges, so I'd only change one at a time.
Indeed, my Aqueon 55 has slots for two carts as well...
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:37 AM   #32
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than yah that should be fine thats nothing..what kind of fish are they?
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:39 AM   #33
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than yah that should be fine thats nothing..what kind of fish are they?
Three fancytail goldies...one Red Cap Oranda, one all-orange Oranda and a Gold-and-Black Moor...
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:00 AM   #34
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Is it true that canister filters are now so sophisticated that you can play computer games on them?
heh, yeah! Fluval-G seems to be going that way. But I think Fluval are trying to be the Apple of the aquarium world by making stuff that looks pretty. Ultimately it doesn't seem to do much. Shows the temperature of the water, big deal, I've got a £2 thermometer that does that for me. Then it shows the filter replacement schedule, again, big deal!

Now if it could give a constant read out of Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH, *that* would be worth getting!
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:36 PM   #35
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That would really help and may be a motive for replacing the under gravel filters, but it doesn't yet exist. Possibly it would be easier to install a draw poker program, which could be very popular but of little interest to some of us.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:12 AM   #36
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hey sorry osage i know i promised pics but i dont know how to post them so check em out on my profile..hows your tank coming along??
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:58 AM   #37
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hey sorry osage i know i promised pics but i dont know how to post them so check em out on my profile..hows your tank coming along??
Hey Loach!

Thanks for the reply, man! I'll try to check out the pics on your profile...

The tank is better -- the water is beginning to clear, if not as clear as a goldfish tank is going to get I suppose, and the three fancytails appear to be healthy...
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:02 PM   #38
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Hi,
The cartridges are mechanical filtration. What I do, and it works great for me, is go to LFS and ask them for 100 micron sheets. Cut a section to fit your filter. Place it right where the water enters to go back into tank, in front of cartridge. Check it every 1/2 of day and you'll find it dark brown to black. Replace it. In NO time, a couple days, your water will be crystal clear! The sheets I buy are a HUGE 3 feet by 3 feet for 15 bucks. One pack will last several weeks, even changing it 2x a day. By the end of the first week you'll only have to change it once a day and after the first week maybe only evry couple days. I swear, this stuff gets your water CLEAR.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:52 PM   #39
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Thanks Loach,

But how often do I need to change these "cartridges" in my filters? Do I need to change them out completely and replace them with new ones, as the marketing folks at Aqueon, etc. suggest, or do I just take them out and rinse them, to put them back into the canister?
I replaced the floss bag (and just the floss) after a year. I kept the old plastic frame. The fish supply companies wants to get you in the habit of replacing the filters like once a month or so, and that's how they make their money after all.

It takes a while for a tank to settle, and bacteria will grow everywhere, even the glass. I'm currently running a 10 gallon tank with 9 fishes (5 Rasboras and 4 Dwarf Gouramis) and I'm using the filter that came with the tank (a Regent 5-10 gallon filter) I also have a lot of Java ferns plants growing everywhere.

Debris will eventually settle down at the bottom of the tank.
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #40
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Thanks Guys,

So how often do I need to change my Aqueons' carts?
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