Airstone problems

[BUGGERLUGZ]

I've recently added a small USB powered air-pump and long air-stone to my 60 litre tropical tank in my kitchen, since its installation I started to notice an accumulation of water on the worktop.

I initially thought it was the seals on the tank going but after some investigation (turning off the airpump and mopping the entire worktop under the tank) it appears the spray from the air-pump bubbles popping is collecting/ moving across the top of the tank lid, collecting in the corner by the pump/filter and making its way down the back of the tanks glass. Its annoying because there are only three small gaps for the lid light cable, filter/pump and the heater.

I've used silicon around the lid, but its still doing it so I've currently got a piece of super absorbing window cloth taped to the top of the back of my tank which needs squeezing out daily.

Any ideas people??

[Andy Sager]

Originally Posted by BUGGERLUGZ

I've recently added a small USB powered air-pump and long air-stone to my 60 litre tropical tank in my kitchen, since its installation I started to notice an accumulation of water on the worktop.

I initially thought it was the seals on the tank going but after some investigation (turning off the airpump and mopping the entire worktop under the tank) it appears the spray from the air-pump bubbles popping is collecting/ moving across the top of the tank lid, collecting in the corner by the pump/filter and making its way down the back of the tanks glass. Its annoying because there are only three small gaps for the lid light cable, filter/pump and the heater.

I've used silicon around the lid, but its still doing it so I've currently got a piece of super absorbing window cloth taped to the top of the back of my tank which needs squeezing out daily.

Any ideas people??

You need to install a bleeder valve ( a.k.a. Gang Valve) into the line to reduce the airflow to the air stone. Here's about gang valves: https://fishlab.com/gang-valve/#:~:t...line%20fitting!
You'll want at least a 2 way valve so that you can keep one of the valves partially open to bleed off excess air. Once installed, close the valve that is going to be the bleeder and set the valve to the airstone so that it is blowing stronger than you want then slowly start opening the bleeder valve until the air stone is blowing at the correct rate. By bleeding off the excess air, you will also reduce the back pressure on the pump increasing it's lifespan as well as reducing any noise in the pump. This should stop the leakage on the top.

[BUGGERLUGZ]

Thanks for that, just ordered the adjuster valve and a non-return one too, will give them a go!

[Andy Sager]

Originally Posted by BUGGERLUGZ

Thanks for that, just ordered the adjuster valve and a non-return one too, will give them a go!

If you have a strong enough pump, you can always add onto a smaller valve if you want other air driven things in the tank.
A word of caution, make sure you put the check valve ( non-return valve) AFTER the gang valve. The sequence should look like: Pump, gang valve, check valve, air stone. In fact, the closer you put that valve to the tank, the less water will be in the hose should the electricity go out. Also, make sure you put the check valve in facing the right direction. Blow into the airline tubing to confirm which direction the air is going. ( You'd be surprised at how many people put those valves in backward. )

[BUGGERLUGZ]

Thanks Andy, I'll put the check valve just inside the tank, I did think about adding a second air-stone to spread out the bubble popping under the lid, (but I presume the effect would be the same) anyhow I've ordered the 3 gang valve. So will give it a go and report back.

[Andy Sager]

Originally Posted by BUGGERLUGZ

Thanks Andy, I'll put the check valve just inside the tank, I did think about adding a second air-stone to spread out the bubble popping under the lid, (but I presume the effect would be the same) anyhow I've ordered the 3 gang valve. So will give it a go and report back.

No, keep the check valve outside the tank. I'd add the valve just off the gang valve ( if it's a hang on tank gang valve) or near the top of the tank before the airline goes into the tank.

[Colin_T]

Move the air stone to a different spot so it's not near the glass.

Reduce the water level in the tank by an inch and see if that helps.

Water normally only bubbles over the top if the tank is too full or the pump pushes lots of air into the stone.

[nashihoude]

My tank has the same issue.
A valve can help to reduce the water vapor from the air stone, but it's recommend to move the airstone to the corner that keep a distance from the glass. For more infos about the solution, go to the tutorial of beat the condensation, it is a helpful one.

[BUGGERLUGZ]

I tried the three gang valve system (with 2 one-way valves) and two airstones spread along the middle of my tank, but it didn't work very well as the first one to get the air got most of it and the second ones bubbles stopped. In the end I ditched the long air-stone and just went with one small stone in the middle of my tank with one pipe directly to the pump with a one way valve on it.



I've directed the filter flow at the surface where the bubbles break through and that seems to be helping, but its still collecting condensation in the back right hand side of the lid. I've got around it by supergluing a strip of super-absorbant window sponge cloth to the corner of the lid, that allows it to drip back inside the tank.


Currently there is no more leaks!

[Andy Sager]

Originally Posted by BUGGERLUGZ

I tried the three gang valve system (with 2 one-way valves) and two airstones spread along the middle of my tank, but it didn't work very well as the first one to get the air got most of it and the second ones bubbles stopped. In the end I ditched the long air-stone and just went with one small stone in the middle of my tank with one pipe directly to the pump with a one way valve on it.



I've directed the filter flow at the surface where the bubbles break through and that seems to be helping, but its still collecting condensation in the back right hand side of the lid. I've got around it by supergluing a strip of super-absorbant window sponge cloth to the corner of the lid, that allows it to drip back inside the tank.


Currently there is no more leaks!

That's good you stopped the leaking but be careful with the cloths you attach as some may have chemicals in them for aroma or anti-flammables. If you notice your fish breathing heavy or acting weird, immediately change at least 50% - 75% of the water.

As for the airstone issue, longer stones do need more air pressure and the issue may be your air pump more than the valves. With the valves, it's all just a matter of adjusting the valves to accommodate the stones. If your pump isn't large enough, no manor of adjustments will make it all work.