Another lighting question!!!

[neeker4]

I have a 29g tank with a 14.75"x14.75"x4" HOB filter (14.75 high and wide, 4 deep) currently cycling. I bought a 30" T5 HO light fixture that contains 2 22" bulbs. I put 1 10,000k light (blue-ish) and a actinic 420 bulb (whiteish) for it tody. I was curious if this would be able to support any sort of coral life such as an anemone... Its already up and cycling so I have to work with what I have... thanks for any advice and ideas...

 

[dannyb]

The actinic bulb would be the blue bulb and the 10,000k would be the yellowish/whiteish light.

How many watts can the unit handle and how many watts is each bulb? Individual reflectors?

To support a anemone, I think minimum for a BTA would be 4 individuate reflected T5HO 54w> light.

 

[neeker4]

I am not sure off the top of my head how many watts the unit can handle. The two bulbs that are in there now are 24 watts each. If I can't do an anemone, what possibilities are there for my set up? I'd like to do something like a bird's nest (I think that is what its called) or some other SMS coral like a velvet finger (again not sure if that is the proper name for it.)

 

[neeker4]

I just did the math, and I have a disappointing .6 watts per gallon. I realize that a brid's nest coral is out of the question as it needs high lighting (3wpgs), so does anybody have any suggestions on some nice looking low light corals that are comparable to a bird's nest?

 

[thincat]

You could do some LPS corals like a Duncan. you would have to have it near the top and feed it so that it would have enough energy since your lighting is pretty bad. You could also do somethng like a "Sun coral" which does not depend on lights.
Any SPS corals are out of the question.

 

[rive1404]

You should just throw SPS ideas out the window until you upgrade the lighting.

I like thincat's Sun Coral suggestion. I've had plenty of experiences with them, and they are pretty cool and don't require light. Heck, just their color and presence in the tank alone would brighten things up. Just be sure to spot feed them.

 

[rive1404]

Sorry for the double post, Mods. But I remember skimming over something about non-photosynthetic gorgonians. I know absolutely nothing about them, but maybe you could look into it since you want an SPS/branching look.

 

[neeker4]

You guys are crushing my dreams...Just kidding. Even though I just bought the lights I put on, I am currently saving up for better lights. Thanks for the advice and suggestions.

 

[mrg02d]

Id throw out the 420nm and replace with a 460nm bulb so you get more PAR. PAR is much more important to consider than watts per gallon. Since you have a t5 HO fixture, get two ATI bulbs and you should be able to have much more coral than your current setup can support. ATI makes a Blue Plus bulb that has an awful lot of PAR AND gives you the same effect that an actinic 420nm bulb has.

Id go for a 10,000k ATI and an ATI blue plus. Might as well get the max you can out of that fixture. Now, why are there 22in bulbs in a 30in fixture?

Matt

 

[neeker4]

I have no idea why there are 22" bulbs in a 30" fixture. I didn't design or produce the fixture so I couldn't tell you. I have my eye on a 4x 24w 30" bulb and fixture set up. I am probably about a month or two of saving away from purchasing this fixture so I will have to be patient. It is a blessing in disguise that I am learning this while my tank is cycling so I can save while there is nothing to look at and subsequently die unbeknownst to me.

 

[neeker4]

Matt, I was re-reading your post and have a few questions. First, what is PAR? Second, where would I be able to find an ATI bulb? Last, what corals could I expect to keep with these bulb upgrades?

 

[mrg02d]

Matt, I was re-reading your post and have a few questions. First, what is PAR? Second, where would I be able to find an ATI bulb? Last, what corals could I expect to keep with these bulb upgrades?

PAR refers to the amount of usable light for the coral. Less PAR means less usable light for the coral. PC is less than t5 and t5 is less than MH. This is all relative to the bulb used, brand, and such, but still a good estimation of what to expect from a certain bulb technology.

ATI t5 bulbs are one of the best t5 bulbs out there and have a LOT of PAR whereas other brands have less.

Actinic bulbs (420nm) have much less PAR than the rest of the color temperatures available to us. ATI blue plus are similar to actinic bulbs, but have a tremendous PAR.

You can get ATI t5 bulbs from marinedepot.com as well as many other online vendors.

Matt

 

[melosu58]

Moved to General Hardware and equipment discussion.

 

[Crepe]

How are you getting .6 wpg with 48 watts on a 29 gallon tank?

 

[thincat]

"PAR is the abbreviation for Photosynthetically Active Radiation".
This article was just updated and is a good read...
Aquarium Lighting; Kelvin, Nanometers, PAR, Bulb, Watt, MH, LED, Light Basics.

 

[neeker4]

Anyone care to share an opinion on this lighting option please... Im looking at the reef white to replace the setup I have now... Thoughts are appreciated..[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]


Currently available:
*AquaBeam 500; 12 watt Marine White (14,000K)- $154.99
(5 Daylight emitters)
Despite the name, the Marine White is also a possible choice for planted freshwater aquariums, with much lower wasted light in the yellow spectrum than CFLs)

* AquaBeam 500; 12 watt Reef White- $149.99
(2 blue emitters & 3 14,000K Daylight emitters)
The Reef White is the most recommended model with the best marine reef application potential as well as another choice for planted FW (for those desiring more blue as well Cyanobacteria control). Also a good compliment to T2 or T5 Light Systems
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