check valve

[artur]

Thanks for all your help before. You can see my sump/fuge in DIY forum. This week I will change some plumbing. I will have Mag 12 going thru chiller to one overflow and Mag 9.5 go directly to second overflow in my 125 reef. Do I need check-valves in line between pump and overflow <always had them But I,m not sure if I need them>. I know they restrict a flow a lot. Please let me know. Thanks.

 

[mr_X]

no. you don't need them. just make sure when you turn the power off, you have a way to break siphon, so you don't drain too much water back to the sump.
btw, that's an awful lot of return for a 125. you could probably get away with just the mag12.

 

[artur]

no. you don't need them. just make sure when you turn the power off, you have a way to break siphon, so you don't drain too much water back to the sump.
btw, that's an awful lot of return for a 125. you could probably get away with just the mag12.

So what is the easy and safe way to break siphon? Just put return nozzles at or part above water level??

 

[mr_X]

easy and safe? i would drill a hole in the return pipe(s) just below the water line inside the display. that was you can still direct the returns where you want, and the hole will do the siphon break for you.

 

[David S]

As Mr.x but I would drill 2 just in case one gets blocked by a snail or something,also the flow coming out of the holes when the pump is running helps agitate the water surface.

 

[SabrinaACorley]

A ball check valve is a check valve in which the closing member, the movable part to block the flow, is a spherical ball. In some (but not all) ball check valves, the ball is spring-loaded to help keep it shut. For those designs without a spring, reverse flow is required to move the ball toward the seat and create a seal. The interior surface of the main seats of ball check valves are more or less conically-tapered to guide the ball into the seat and form a positive seal when stopping reverse flow.