Do I need a Ball Valve?

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Callen

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May 31, 2013
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College Station, Texas
During my last water change, I cut the tubing on my return pump to make it shorter. Mr. X had indicated on one of my other threads that it didn't need to be that long. From that discussion, I figured I could make it shorter and increase the flow to my DT. Now, it seems like the DT can't drain quickly enough to satisfy the return pump. It holds a higher water level now..it actually touches the glass cross support at the top of my tank. I also have to fill up the sump more often. At the same time, my skimmer apprears to be on the skids. It actually started pulling a lot of water up into the collection cup and just over dinnertime filled up a 1 gallon bucket with water through its overflow tube.

Did taking 6 -8 inches off my return tubing really cause this much change in the system? How do I fix it? Ball valve on teh return line? If so, where does it go?
 
Is the skimmer in the sump? Cause if so the elevated water level in the sump might be higher than the skimmers water level is supposed to be at causing skimmer to not work properly
 
Yes. Skimmer is in the sump.

So with shortened return tube = less head loss= less water in sump due to quicker return flow rate = more water in DT?

Now how does that coordinate w the skimmer? Lower water level means I need to adjust my skimmer somehow?

Then how does that play into lowering the water level in my DT- which is what I need to do. I'm afraid it's gonna overflow.
 
Is there some way you can increase flow OUT of your DT? lower overflow height, straighter flow to sump etc so you can keep the higher flow.

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I don't know if I can do that, Stachie. My tank has a built in overflow box. Is there a way to adjust it? Does that white pipe with the "basket" on top adjust somehow? I'm still fairly new with all of the equipment and was probably just lucky that it all worked right in the first place. I never had to tweak any of the equipment.....until now...and something clearly isn't right.
 
sounds like you will need to keep adjusting your skimmer while you sort this out. If you can move the overflow pipe so it sits at a lower level that should help. Have you checked nothing is being blocked anywhere? algae, snails other debris...
Is your return pump adjustable? If it is that will affect water level too.

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Giving you some pics so you can see the setup. There is a "basket" for lack of a better term on the end of the pvc pipe at the bottom of the pic. Dint know if that pipe adjusts in any way. Sump is directly below the overflow box. The hose is in a swirl/slide per recommendation of the LFS. I ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1391870960.805352.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1391870985.234809.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1391871017.430907.jpg*think* the skimmer is supposed to have a Venturi valve that controls how much air goes in? If so that is missing/broken. The arm that disperses the clean water from the skimmer adjusts up and down but until the aforementioned overflow accident it never made a difference what position it was in.
 
I'm no expert on skimmers but my best advice is make small adjustments and let it sit for a while to see how it reacts. see if you can remove any of those strainers/baskets and clean off any debris.

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What size return pump are you using and what size tank is this? 1" drain?
The skimmer should be in a consistent water level in order to function properly. If you don't have this, you are always going to get fluctuating results. The wet dry is simply not the best setup for a sump.
 
@X: I think you helped me identify the return pump as a mag 18 ( on my thread in getting started section.). The tank is 75 gallons. I'm not nearby now but I'm looking at a ruler and Im pretty sure the drain is larger than 1". probably 1.5 or maybe 2. The drain pipe is definitely larger than the return pipe.

I keep the water level consistent in the sump and add to it at least 2x day.

I'm thinking of making the trip to semi-LFS today to get a new skimmer. The only one I can walk out the door with is a reef octopus 110. Would that be a good replacement or should I order online?

On the wet-dry, should I do as others have suggested and remove bio balls. Add clip on light and macro algae in first section? I plan to convert to fuge but tackling 1 project at a time.

Better question: which would you do first? Skimmer vs fuge? Will either address my ball valve question?
 
Not in my opinion. Get this skimmer. It's a beast.
Bubble Magus BM 180EX Protein Skimmer Brand New | eBay

You really need to glue in a partition between the intake section and the return area, and put the skimmer in there. The skimmer above, skip the algae, and you'll be fine.

As for the ball valve, you may need it. I'm wondering if you should just choke it back a tiny bit.
 
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Partition would go on which side of the existing one? Left side where bio balls are or right side where skimmer and return pump are? I've got 12 inches on each side. Will that be enough room?
ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1391900540.410132.jpg

Am I basically making a bubble trap with that partition that is already there? There is 4 inches underneath it. The new partition would be how tall?

And on "choke it back". What are you referring to? Something in my current setup?
 
The partition must go between the skimmer area and the return area. If you can make a bubble trap, that will work fine. I would make the partition 8-10" tall, to make the water level in the skimmer area this deep.
AS for choking back, I'm referring to a ball valve at the return side of the return pump.
 
Do I use silicone to attach/seal the partition if it is acrylic? What is drying time? And can my DT go that long with the circulation turned off?
 
Whoa we have like the same wet dry setup
 
Yeah if you get an old toothbrush and scrub the beck of the skimmer it will help
 
Yes together we can!! I was thinking about cutting my drip plate so I could put a filter sock into it instead of filter floss because I want to reuse them
 
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