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Old 07-27-2009, 02:43 PM   #21
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I just wanted to chime in and say that I just bought a Fluval E200 heater and I love it so far. The LCD display is really nice and it's really nice to have a LCD to set the temperature to the 0.5 degree increments. It has a microprocessor so it monitors a number of things besides temp.. It makes sure there is sufficient water flow around the heater to be effective and will tell you if there is not. It also raises the temp slowly which I really like.

So far, this heater is awesome. I've got a case of Ick brewing and I'll be able to set the temp exactly where I want it and see the current temp on the display. Cool stuff!

-Alli

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Old 07-27-2009, 03:29 PM   #22
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I have a 70g bow front, i am looking at the JAger 50w Heater is that big enough for my tank. I am thinking of buying 2.
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No it's not, a single Jager 200w is rated for 60 to 90 gallons the jager 50w is rated for 10 to 15 gallons. Each manufacturer has has different tank capacities for the same wattage, the difference being the size/length of the heater. I put 2 400 watt in my 120 gal with the logic both will work 1/2 the time each but if one fails the other can handle the entire tank.
it also depends on room temps also. it might need 2 250w or 2 100w it really depends.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:45 PM   #23
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it also depends on room temps also. it might need 2 250w or 2 100w it really depends.
It gets really cold here and you never know when something in the house can fail and in the winter it's gotten down to 65 in the basement where my tanks are.
Like you say it all depends. I don't know where he is from so it would be wise to follow the manufacturers recommendation for wattage to tank size, in some cases it may be over kill but you wont get into trouble following their specs.
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:46 PM   #24
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yes i agree just a litte foot note to remember when picking out heaters.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:44 PM   #25
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thanks allihstah for your input- very helpful.... and also others for advice on room temperature......

Think at the moment im headed for fluval tronic to make use of the sale they have at my local supplyer, unless i can find a good price for a Jager in New Zealand.

On a side note to follow up the Jager being submersible or not debate; my friend is running his jager (not the old version) with everything submersed except for the temperature dial- is this what people mean by haveing it semi submersed? he said he was previosly running it fully submersed though....

also, what exactly do you do if the power does go out.... and dousnt return for a while. is there actualy anything you can do? Hook up some sort of capaciter back up system?

Cheers Nick
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:05 PM   #26
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thanks allihstah for your input- very helpful.... and also others for advice on room temperature......

Think at the moment im headed for fluval tronic to make use of the sale they have at my local supplyer, unless i can find a good price for a Jager in New Zealand.

On a side note to follow up the Jager being submersible or not debate; my friend is running his jager (not the old version) with everything submersed except for the temperature dial- is this what people mean by haveing it semi submersed? he said he was previosly running it fully submersed though....

also, what exactly do you do if the power does go out.... and dousnt return for a while. is there actualy anything you can do? Hook up some sort of capaciter back up system?

Cheers Nick
A capacitor In an Alternating Current application is used primarily as a high or low pass filter where as in a Direct current applications it acts similar to a battery. In order to use a cap you would have to have dc source to charge the cap, then a circuit to adjust the discharge rate with the resulting voltage going through an inverter to convert it back to AC so you can run your native 220vac heater. Just thought you ought to know.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:32 PM   #27
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A little more input on the Fluval E series heaters.. I set mine at 86 from 79 and it raises the temp really slow so you don't have to worry about it rocketing up really quick. I like how slow it is. So like right now I'm fighting Ick, I can just set it at 86F and not worry about doing it in increments because it does it slow all on its own. So far this thing is great!
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:21 AM   #28
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A capacitor In an Alternating Current application is used primarily as a high or low pass filter where as in a Direct current applications it acts similar to a battery. In order to use a cap you would have to have dc source to charge the cap, then a circuit to adjust the discharge rate with the resulting voltage going through an inverter to convert it back to AC so you can run your native 220vac heater. Just thought you ought to know.
whoops, forgot the application runs oh AC :p

still, thats be a cool setup if you could be bothered lol. i was thinking in terms of dc, just a simple cap being charged off an isolated rectifier.... oh well lol.

Allistah: sounds like a great system, but just to clarify when you say Fluval E series are you refering to Fluval Elite or Fluval Tronic Electronic systems?

Cheers
Nick
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:25 AM   #29
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there are UPS (Uninterruptible power supply) used on comps that will work.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:31 AM   #30
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Much easier.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:32 AM   #31
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That Fluval heater sounds like a pretty cool device.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:20 AM   #32
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@nickb:
I mean the Tronic ones... The ones with the LCD display on them. All of th model numbers have E in front of them. The one I have is a 200w heater so it's the Fluval E200.

Here is a picture of it the E50 model (it had the best pic):
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:31 AM   #33
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@nickb:
I mean the Tronic ones... The ones with the LCD display on them. All of th model numbers have E in front of them. The one I have is a 200w heater so it's the Fluval E200.

Here is a picture of it the E50 model (it had the best pic):
Cool, let us know how it works?
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