Getting 75 g drilled...

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Flaxon-Waxon

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I am thinking 3 holes per someone's advice on this forum and wanted to see what everyone had to say. It looks like I may drill the back of the tank a couple inches below the water line, and was thinking (2) 1-3/8" holes on far left and far right of the back glass, and (1) 1/2" hole in the center but still a couple inches down from water line, for the return.

What's everyone's thoughts? Do I need 3 holes? Should the return be 1/2" or should I make it the same size as the others?
 
2 overflows 1 return? You should always have your overflow larger then your return so that it can keep up because the drain is powered by gravity while the return is under pressure from a pump meaning more water will travel thru the same size pipe for the return. 3 holes is a good plan (1 main overflow with a back up slightly higher inside the overflow) and a return. What size pump will you be using? That will help decide on size of return line.
 
Yea 2 overflows and 1 return. I was considering a Mag 7... Should I go bigger? The holes will accommodate 1" PCV for the overflow and 1/2" for the return. Now what do you mean slightly higher, and what is the point of this?
 
And I'm not actually running an overflow box, I will be using 90 degree elbows and a screen kinda thing so nothing will get sucked in. My LFS has em at the store, don't know what they're called lol
 
Benamayer said:
And I'm not actually running an overflow box, I will be using 90 degree elbows and a screen kinda thing so nothing will get sucked in. My LFS has em at the store, don't know what they're called lol

Stand pipes and this will eliminate the need for different heights. It's so that you use one overflow drain and if it would ever get clogged the second slightly higher will save the tank from flooding.
 
A mag7 will be ok but if it were me I'd go one up and you can always setup the return so that you can covert the flow back to the beginning of the sump. This will lessen the gph reaching the tank and give you the option to ramp it up if you ever want.
 
So would that basically act a a siphon break I case the pump stopped working?
 
Mrc8858 said:
A mag7 will be ok but if it were me I'd go one up and you can always setup the return so that you can covert the flow back to the beginning of the sump. This will lessen the gph reaching the tank and give you the option to ramp it up if you ever want.

So how many GPH should I look for in a pump do ya think?
 
Benamayer said:
So would that basically act a a siphon break I case the pump stopped working?

No it would be like the whole in the top of most sinks so that if the main drain stops functioning there is a second drain ready to do its job if the water ever reaches it which normally it shouldn't to keep it clean and clear of debris. There are many ways to plumb a tank a lot of which will be your preference and space allotted to you by your wall and tank stand.
 
Benamayer said:
So how many GPH should I look for in a pump do ya think?

How high is it gonna have to travel and how many elbows because this will all restrict flow. Most pumps will give you the different ratings at different head heights.
 
Ohhhh ok I gotcha. So let me ask this.. If the power goes out and the pump stops, what stops the water from draining into the sump? Or is this where you factor in enough room in the sump to accommodate this water?
 
Just like what you said. Your sump should have enough room in it to hold all the water from your plumbing and from the lowest point in your DT which will either be your lowest overflow or the lowest return (since the return will create a back siphon)
 
Gotcha! Thanks dude... I'm gonna come up with a plumbing schematic tonight, mind taggin along on this thread when I post?
 
True lol! So can I just get normal PVC? And what kind of cement/glue?
 
Normal pvc and normal glue just make sure you let it cure and rinse it out.
 
What thickness acrylic should I get for the baffles of a 30 gallon sump?
 
I used 1/4" which should be good for pretty much any standard sized tank conversion. The baffles have pressure on both sides by the water so it cancels itself out unlike building a tank where one side has a ton of pressure while the other side none.
 
Good call on that... And 1/4" is still thin enough where I can just score it with a utility knife and snap it?
 
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