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Old 03-08-2014, 05:53 PM   #1
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issues with Fluval Heater E300

hey guys, I made it and have now this great big heater for my 75 gal tank.
BUT I'm having issues with it.
It has this error code LF for low flow. I tried all kind of different positions in the tank and this is always coming up.
I have two biowheel filter and the water movement is on top. To high for the sensor of the heater.
So now what? Airpump bubblemachine.... it just never ends
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:44 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
hey guys, I made it and have now this great big heater for my 75 gal tank.
BUT I'm having issues with it.
It has this error code LF for low flow. I tried all kind of different positions in the tank and this is always coming up.
I have two biowheel filter and the water movement is on top. To high for the sensor of the heater.
So now what? Airpump bubblemachine.... it just never ends
I have the same heater on my 55g and when I switch off my circulation pump, I get the same message. Solution....you need a circulation pump/power head....
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:04 PM   #3
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issues with Fluval Heater E300

Or try a large air stone close to the heater, but not close enough that the bubbles get in the heater though
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:50 PM   #4
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entering a new world again full of air pumps and air stones
I was digging through the bag the guy gave me I bought my tank of. And there it is: Marineland Air Master 3000 some kind of Air pump I guess. Now what can I do with it? Is this thing good for 75gal? It doesn't have a hose or anything.
Then I found an air stone kit. Has hose, valves and small stone in it.
hm what to do?
Please tell me what I need and what this thing can do if usable at all

My new heater is not doing anything. Is stuck at 77 F with LF blinking. I put the old heater back in so my fish don't freeze.
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:28 PM   #5
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Put the air stone close to the heater, but not so close that the bubbles touch the heater. This will increase flow around the heater, and hopefully eliminating the error.

You probably should invest in a power head for that size tank.
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:45 PM   #6
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Put the air stone close to the heater, but not so close that the bubbles touch the heater. This will increase flow around the filter, and hopefully eliminating the error.

You probably should invest in a power head for that size tank.
Thank you anibis.
I could cry. Another at least $70 investment. This month is really tough on equipment
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:56 PM   #7
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Powerheads aren't that much.

Water Pumps & Wavemakers: Hydor Koralia Evolution

Something like that would work well.

This is an expensive hobby, that's for sure. They bait you with a cheap tank, then you end up needing a stand, filters, heaters, lighting, all the decor. Once you have everything you need it's not so bad.
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:08 PM   #8
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Powerheads aren't that much.

Water Pumps & Wavemakers: Hydor Koralia Evolution

Something like that would work well.

This is an expensive hobby, that's for sure. They bait you with a cheap tank, then you end up needing a stand, filters, heaters, lighting, all the decor. Once you have everything you need it's not so bad.
hey the price is really nice. Now I have to find this product in Canada. I tried to order it but it cost $20 shipping. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:34 PM   #9
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Ahh yea I didn't know you were in Canada, things are more expensive up there.

Just look around, I'm sure you can find one for $45 or so.
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:56 PM   #10
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check ebay, you can find a knock-off chinese brand very cheap, and maybe cheap shipping to where you are.

Did you take the plastic shroud off the heater body and check the body for debris or calcifications? A sensor may be clogged. You have a really good heater, I hope you can get it to work.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:15 AM   #11
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check ebay, you can find a knock-off chinese brand very cheap, and maybe cheap shipping to where you are.

Did you take the plastic shroud off the heater body and check the body for debris or calcifications? A sensor may be clogged. You have a really good heater, I hope you can get it to work.
No I didn't take anything of because it's brand new. This morning it shows finally 81F but with blinking LF. I will try an air stone today and see if that does the trick.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:53 PM   #12
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No I didn't take anything of because it's brand new. This morning it shows finally 81F but with blinking LF. I will try an air stone today and see if that does the trick.
I wouldn't buy a pump or airstone, or even run one(if you already have one) just for this. A circulation pump is what you really need. A know they are expensive but it will also help the water get filtered properly. Mine broke recently and I could see the difference in the water clarity within a few days.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:41 PM   #13
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I wouldn't buy a pump or airstone, or even run one(if you already have one) just for this. A circulation pump is what you really need. A know they are expensive but it will also help the water get filtered properly. Mine broke recently and I could see the difference in the water clarity within a few days.
Circulation pump makes totally sense. Thank you Ian and hello to beautiful Ireland. I am a huge Fan of your Country
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:22 PM   #14
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Thumbs up

It's strange but I don't get the LF anymore and that since hours. I unplugged it this morning for my weekly wc and that's it.
Problem solved

I think I made a mistake by setting it up. It says one is supposed to put the heater for 20 min into the water before plugging it in. I missed that one
Maybe that was the reason.

Do you guys think I can remove the old 150 Watt heater now which I have still in there safety wise?
LED on new heater shows consistently 81/82 F which is my desired temperature.

nonetheless I will invest into a circulation pump. It makes sense in such a big tank.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
It's strange but I don't get the LF anymore and that since hours. I unplugged it this morning for my weekly wc and that's it. Problem solved I think I made a mistake by setting it up. It says one is supposed to put the heater for 20 min into the water before plugging it in. I missed that one Maybe that was the reason. Do you guys think I can remove the old 150 Watt heater now which I have still in there safety wise? LED on new heater shows consistently 81/82 F which is my desired temperature. nonetheless I will invest into a circulation pump. It makes sense in such a big tank.
if just put the 150 away as a back up, no need in using the electricity.. With a sand bed in that size tank.. A circulation fan would be a good thing for sure, position it to flow over the sand and keep crud from settling! Ps.. Turtle! You're doing great! Happy to know all is going well
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:49 PM   #16
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Circulation pump makes totally sense. Thank you Ian and hello to beautiful Ireland. I am a huge Fan of your Country
Thank You Turtle for your kind words. I am a big fan of your country too. I believe it too is a beautiful place and maybe one day I will make it there!!.
As regards the heater, I am delighted the problem is solved. A circulation pump will still be a great addition. I agree with brookster, remove the 150w and keep it as a back up. You have a solid, very reliable heater in the Fluval. I have never had an issue with it(nearly 5yrs later), touch wood. Just don't forget to turn it off 20 mins before you do your WC. I forgot one time but 'got away' with it. I believe it has an auto shut off for such cases but still best not to chance it
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:26 AM   #17
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Happy to early. This morning the fluval heater was down to 78F with blinking LF. noooooooooooooo
So I put the old heater back in to fire up the temp.
What the hack is going on? Does my new heater have a defect or something?

Throw some brands for circulation and air pumps at me. Stuff that you can recommend and that is quiet.
I guess I have to go shopping because this issue is starting to bother me.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:49 AM   #18
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It's strange but I don't get the LF anymore and that since hours. I unplugged it this morning for my weekly wc and that's it.
Problem solved

I think I made a mistake by setting it up. It says one is supposed to put the heater for 20 min into the water before plugging it in. I missed that one
Maybe that was the reason.

Do you guys think I can remove the old 150 Watt heater now which I have still in there safety wise?
LED on new heater shows consistently 81/82 F which is my desired temperature.

nonetheless I will invest into a circulation pump. It makes sense in such a big tank.
Depends how much you love your fish and your trust that heater.. If it fails again would you want your back up in the tank? Do you also have a thermometer in the tank or are you just using what your heater says? I'm not familiar with your heater so It might have a thermometer built in somehow.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:19 AM   #19
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Happy to early. This morning the fluval heater was down to 78F with blinking LF. noooooooooooooo
So I put the old heater back in to fire up the temp.
What the hack is going on? Does my new heater have a defect or something?

Throw some brands for circulation and air pumps at me. Stuff that you can recommend and that is quiet.
I guess I have to go shopping because this issue is starting to bother me.
You could bring it back and change it for another(same model) but you will need that circulation pump either way, especially for a tank that size....
Have a read of this, it should help.....
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...ed-272090.html
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:54 AM   #20
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This is interesting. I have an ehiem jäger for my 75. I use to run my sponges off powerheads and the one side was always warmer then the other. I now just use an air pump in them and it's even on both side. I also have my ehiem 2213 also.
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