is basically a one and done type of fitting.
The proper removal tool is usually a hacksaw or cutting wheel, etc.
If it's a leak on the joint then it was not glued correctly and should be removed and redone. You can put a ring of glue around the outside of the leak but it will come back eventually. Same goes for putty or epoxy. It will eventually leak again.
It's just easier to glue up a new piece. If you have the room you can glue a union, coupling, or some other fitting in the line to make changes. With unions at the tank and pump connections (valves can be nice here too) any cleaning or modification is a snap.
If you are unsure of proper glue method:
Originally Posted by jim692
or CPVC joints should be made with the pipes totally dry (ie. no water inside or out.) Apply the primer then glue and push the joint together fully while making a 1/4 turn on the pipe or fitting. The 1/4 turn helps spread the glue and prevent leaks. Hold the pipes in place for 15- 20 seconds for the glue to "set", otherwise the joint will try to back out. "Cure" time relates to how much pressure you want the final joint to be able to resist, and the room temp. Try this link for general guides.
FAQ :: Oatey.com
Generally at 70'F and pipes at 2" and under, 1 hour for aquarium applications is fine. Make sure you have good ventilation while gluing and drying. The solvents in the glue are not something you want to be breathing. The glue vapors are highly flammable as well.
FYI, for high pressure uses in fire systems, etc., insurance companies are requiring a cure time of 24 hours before water is applied to the piping or any leaks/damage will not be covered by the policy. Although the manufacturers of the pipe and glue claim you can restore the systems to service in as little as 30 min. in most cases. (darn lawyers)