Would this be a good RO/DI unit?

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I have the second one and love it. The directions are kind of tough to figure out, but I do like the 4 G tank. You may want to check further down, those get posted and sold pretty quick. I got mine for $100, shipping included.
 
Glad to hear you like it. I can't seem to find one cheaper. the shipping is the killer. I don't really need the 4 gallon tank since I will be storing my water in a rubbermaid comtainer.

Can anyone tell me what the difference between these 2 systems are?

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-stage-100GPD-...3380692QQihZ021QQcategoryZ20684QQcmdZViewItem


http://cgi.ebay.com/Reef-100G-Rever...4408637QQihZ021QQcategoryZ20756QQcmdZViewItemhttp://cgi.ebay.com/6-stage-100GPD-...3380692QQihZ021QQcategoryZ20684QQcmdZViewItem
 
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Sorry, I put the same link twice. I updated the previous post with 2 different links.
 
It looks like the one has 2 DI filters. They are both from the same seller so you can probably contact them for more specific info. I am interested in knowing myself....
 
I sent them a question. I'll let you know what they say. So do you think this would be an acceptable unit for my 90 gallon reef? This is one of the last things I need to order to get the tank up and running. :)
 
I was told that the one with 2 filters is used for reef and drinking water. The other is reef only.
 
The 1st link is just an RO/DI unit. The 2nd link is the same unit, but it has a 4 gal storage tank. It's basically the same thing I have. It has 2 outputs. One is the RO water that goes into the storage tank and then to a spigot on your sink. The other outlet is RO/DI for your tank.
 
The biggest problem with those models is that the canisters are not clear. This has 2 effects. One, the plastic used for clear canisters is much stronger than the opaque canisters making them more easily cracked and/or the threads stripped. Secondly, and most important, you can't see the filter media to judge how dirty they are and when you should start considering replacing. You run the chance of waiting to long and having the media give back to some removal to the water or replacing too soon and driving up your end cost.

That being said, I am cheap and use this one : http://cgi.ebay.com/AQUA-SAFE-AQUAR...1661650QQihZ006QQcategoryZ20684QQcmdZViewItem
 
You can use a TDS meter to check the output of the water too. I think I read that SadieLynn or Lindsay stated those units now come with the clear plastic....Maybe they'll chime in.
 
I went ahead and ordered the one for both reef and drinking water. It looks like it just had an extra filter. When it arrives I'll confirm if it has clear plastic. :)
 
I'm pretty sure that the clear plastic housing are more expensive and more brittle than than the opaque housings. I change my 10 micron sediment filter when I see it getting dirty. I change that filter several (4-6) times a year.

Your TDS meter is your best friend with any of the units. It lets you know when the DI filter needs to be replaced and when the membrane needs to be replaced.
 
Those units have smaller DI cartridges than more expensive units. This just means that the DI will be exhausted quicker. The 100 gpd membrane is also less efficient that the 75 gpd membrane. I think there is a 100+ membrane that has a 95% or more rejection rate like the 75 gpd membrane but the 100 gpd membranes typically have a 90% rejection rate. This also means that the DI will be used up faster.

Not saying that these units are bad but sometimes you can get a unit with better internals for a similar price. I started with a unit similar to that and now have clear canisters, a dual DI unit and a 75 gpd membrane. The clear canisters can be bought separately and are not more fragile than the others. It is nice to see how dirty your sediment filter really is.

HTH
 
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