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09-08-2020, 02:11 PM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Spidey's 30G Shallow Reef
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09-08-2020, 02:18 PM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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09-08-2020, 02:25 PM
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#4
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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So, some of the issues I've had so far are chalked up to not knowing the intensity of this light. I've bleached a couple SPS frags (nothing has died yet thankfully).
This led to me renting a PAR meter from BRS and doing some tests on the light.
This was the grid/location of the par measurements:
All this being said, I am still unsure how much PAR for how long I should be running. Someone on another forum threw the term of DLI into the mix.
That being said, I am leaning toward starting it down low (100 PAR mid for 12 hours) and working up from there. Any input is appreciated. It seems like a lot of reef tanks now are running just blues in the 420-430nm range as their sole source of PAR.
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09-09-2020, 09:08 AM
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#5
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Giant Clam Addict
Community Admin



Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Summerville, Pennsylvania
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That's really nice. How did you like the PAR meter you rented? It work well?
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09-09-2020, 10:11 AM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperhank
That's really nice. How did you like the PAR meter you rented? It work well?
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It worked surprisingly well. Considering the light was a lot stronger than I knew - without it I would have been frying corals left and right lol.
In fact, the preset light schedule the lights have in their program would have melted a bunch of my corals. Would have been around 400-500 PAR on the top section, like 400 on the sand.
Below you can see the specs on the light and the setting it had for the "vivid color" mode.

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09-10-2020, 06:59 AM
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#7
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Giant Clam Addict
Community Admin



Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Summerville, Pennsylvania
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Yep. I've been talking about the intensity of LEDs since they penetrate water so well for a long time. I fried a lot with my first set of Radions.
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09-10-2020, 08:53 PM
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#8
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AA Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 16,731
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Looking great (without much SW knowledge  ). Nice to read through on it coming together.
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09-10-2020, 10:07 PM
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#9
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperhank
Yep. I've been talking about the intensity of LEDs since they penetrate water so well for a long time. I fried a lot with my first set of Radions.
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I am really noticing that LEDs in general are much stronger than they look. Eyes really aren't a good indicator on how "strong" the lights are since our eyes auto adjust. Renting a PAR meter was a great investment, these corals would have been fried if I were judging off my eyes. I am even thinking about buying a Seneye meter ($200) - probably the most affordable PAR meter out there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delapool
Looking great (without much SW knowledge  ). Nice to read through on it coming together.
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Thank you  I can appreciate both FW and SW tanks. Definitely beauty in both.
So, here is an update - seems the tank is doing it's job and becoming a nitrate factory lol. I tested yesterday with a Red Sea test kit and was a bit surprised - No3 was around 20ppm or higher. Granted, I wasn't able to tell with any certainty that was the number because light really matters when reading the test kit. Either way, I'd rather err on the side of caution and start planning for when the nitrates really can become a problem
Really can't stand trying to decipher colors with test kits - Hanna needs to hurry up with those testers lol.
To deal with the current issue, did quick 5gal (12.5%) water change and tested again with two test kits. Many more water changes to come.
The next steps in the tank are to get something installed for nitrate reduction. I ordered a 3 reactor kit for nanos that will include a cheato reactor, a bio media reactor, and another small reactor for media of my choice.
This is how they will look when I get them installed -
I am leaning toward NPX Biopellets, I hear good things about it for what it does. The planned outlet is going to be right next to the protein skimmer intake.
Since the skimmer is working well and pulling some gunk, might as well put it to work
Here are the reactors I ordered.
Anyone's feed back on running bio rectors on smaller tanks is appreciated.
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09-13-2020, 11:09 PM
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#10
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AA Member
Community Moderator




Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Perth, Australia
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Be interested in how you find the Seneye par meter if you get it. I got one for a planted tank and found it useful but maybe easier with plants.
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09-14-2020, 10:26 PM
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#11
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delapool
Be interested in how you find the Seneye par meter if you get it. I got one for a planted tank and found it useful but maybe easier with plants.
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Did you use it for all the features? Or was it solely for the PAR meter?
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09-15-2020, 04:42 AM
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#12
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AA Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Perth, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spideybry
Did you use it for all the features? Or was it solely for the PAR meter?
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Just for the PAR meter mainly. I tried the others but didn’t really need them. I can’t remember which one - ph maybe? - it had a panic attack when ph dropped from the CO2 injection so I didn’t worry about trying to monitor those.
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09-15-2020, 10:05 AM
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#13
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delapool
Just for the PAR meter mainly. I tried the others but didn’t really need them. I can’t remember which one - ph maybe? - it had a panic attack when ph dropped from the CO2 injection so I didn’t worry about trying to monitor those.
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Gotcha - makes sense. Did you get the whole webserver version? I was messing around with the idea of getting it but for the webserver it seems more expensive than it's worth.
If anything, $200 for a PAR meter is worth it to me lol.
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09-15-2020, 10:17 PM
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#14
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AA Member
Community Moderator




Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 16,731
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Spidey's 30G Shallow Reef
Quote:
Originally Posted by spideybry
Gotcha - makes sense. Did you get the whole webserver version? I was messing around with the idea of getting it but for the webserver it seems more expensive than it's worth.
If anything, $200 for a PAR meter is worth it to me lol.
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I think I got a free period of use and also a couple of the test pads so played with it all a little for a few months until it all expired but must confess didn’t really need it so just looked at it mainly.
Yeah, good price I thought. I was going to get a PAR meter from the US but it fell through on shipping. Seneye was available here so I thought good price for all I needed it for. I did assume that it must be reasonable for SW as that seems another step up in expense lol and I assumed people wouldn’t be so forgiving if equipment doesn’t work.
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09-17-2020, 10:52 PM
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#15
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Salem
Posts: 1,654
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Beautiful tanks. I’m excited to see how this one turns out!
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09-19-2020, 01:17 PM
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#16
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delapool
I think I got a free period of use and also a couple of the test pads so played with it all a little for a few months until it all expired but must confess didn’t really need it so just looked at it mainly.
Yeah, good price I thought. I was going to get a PAR meter from the US but it fell through on shipping. Seneye was available here so I thought good price for all I needed it for. I did assume that it must be reasonable for SW as that seems another step up in expense lol and I assumed people wouldn’t be so forgiving if equipment doesn’t work.
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I am holding off on getting it at the moment. For now, I think I have the lights tuned to where I like them and I have a decent formula setup for figuring out the PAR at certain points. I may get the Seneye for the spectrum reading it gives though. I've always been curious what mine looks like.
In reality, I'd mostly use the Seneye for that, since the Ph, NH3, and NO3 need these special tabs that must be switched monthly and probably aren't that accurate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Khij159753
Beautiful tanks. I’m excited to see how this one turns out!
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Thanks, me too  So far the tank is going through some cyano (I am not worried yet). May get some red slime remover and hit it with that soon though.
On the plus side, looks like my duncan coral is budding some new heads.
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09-19-2020, 01:45 PM
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#17
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Salem
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Nice! Looks like a few new heads! Gonna be a beautiful mini colony in a week or so
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09-27-2020, 08:49 PM
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#18
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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So it is time for an update.
Unfortunately I find myself fighting back dinos. What I initially thought was cyano, turned out to be dinos I presume. I would go through the entire process of getting a microscope and trying to confirm, but at this point I am just going to go the route of the blanket method and do everything I can to fix things.
Here are some horrible photos (silver lining is that I am getting coralline growth):
Sad FTS atm..
After recently testing, I found my No3 to be down near 0 and my Po4 around .1 ish.
First course of action for me:- Raise No3 a bit to at least 5ppm (I was using Purigen in preparation for a biopellet reactor so I am removing Purigen)
- Siphoning out all that I can daily
- Dip zoa frags that are covered in dinos and showing signs of being stressed
- Dosing Microbacter 7 + Vibrant
- Look into potentially H202 dosing
- Get carbon into a reactor
- Lower light intensity
On the flip side, I do have some good news. There is a happy new addition to the tank - a mystery wrasse along with a bunch of new frags. Here are the "nice photos".
Also I do have some signs of growth, some zoas are popping off new heads and my duncan coral is showing considerable growth.
This was the duncan on 9/19:
The duncan today (9/27):
Currently I am reeling and trying to absorb all the info I can to help fight the dinos, so any info is appreciated.
Oh, as a side note, I'll have to thank Tropic Marin USA for helping me out.
When I initially went to setup this tank, I went to my LFS and grabbed a 200g sack of what I thought was Tropic Marin Classic. After setting up the tank and getting everything situated, I noticed a couple weeks ago that I was chasing some numbers in terms of Alk/Calc/Mag. I decided to do a bit of research and found that my salt sack was actually Tropic Marin ZOO Mix... I do some research and can't find anything in writing online that breaks down the concentrations of this specific mix so I called up Tropic Marin USA. Turns out this specific mix was not to be sold for hobbyists to use (I guess if the system was large enough it'd be okay), and that this mix contains mag chips which - if used in a smaller mixing quantity - can be inconsistent.
So, PSA - make sure you get the right salt. Tropic Marin is thankfully helping me out and getting me a new bucket.
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09-28-2020, 10:39 AM
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#19
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Giant Clam Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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I don't see dinos. I see a spot of grumpy cyanobacteria. Adjust flow, keep up with water changes.
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09-28-2020, 01:21 PM
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#20
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperhank
I don't see dinos. I see a spot of grumpy cyanobacteria. Adjust flow, keep up with water changes.
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Even though my no3 and po4 are down near 0?
I do have some chemiclean I could throw at it as a first measure though. The tank has a ton of flow as it is at the moment I feel - maybe I could throw another small powerhead in there.
One of the reasons I am leaning toward dinos is because the way it tends to string up around and on top of my zoas specifically, and the zoas do not like it one bit... I've attached a few more photos to help with identification maybe.
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