Methylene Blue should be available at most LFS, and I use enough that I can barely see the eggs. It will stain the silicone in the tank, but can be removed with bleach. Some people use hydrogen peroxide, with great success, but I have no experience with it. If you want to utilize a 10 gallon tank, I would get a 1 gallon jar and place it in the tank as the actual hatching vessel. Heat the tank and use an air stone to keep the water moving past the eggs. This will allow you to use less MB, and prevent staining in the tank. The day the eggs hatch, change 80% of the water using dechlorintaed water of the same temp. Each day do the same and by the time they are free swimming, the water should be pretty much clear. when the fry are free swimming, you can start feeding them in the container which keeps the fry and food close together. When the fry are feeding well, after a few days, you can tip the container into the main tank, and continue from there. I have only used freshly hatched BBS, but others have reported success with frozen, using pearls,or decpsulated brine shrimp cysts. I would choose live microworms, which are easy to culture over those foods. Normally you can buy at least small containers of brine shrimp cysts from the LFS, and hatch them out. This is easily done using an inverted 2 liter soda bottle (which can be floated in your 10 gallon), and air line. If feeding BBS you want to feed them to the fry as soon after they hatch as possible, as that is when their food value is highest. Essentially, you are feeding your fry the BBS yolk sacks, and the BBS are the delivery system.
I wouldn't use any type of mechanical filter such as HOB as the fry will get sucked in. Putting a prefilter over the inlet will help with that, but to me, a sponge filter is a simpler economical solution.
Do not be afraid to ask questions; that is the point of these forums.
