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-   -   GOT my NITRITE SpIkE!!! (

MiamiFishy 03-21-2006 09:24 AM

:D 8) Hello everybody!

This time this is more of a comment than a question, my newly setup 29 gal tank got its Nitrite SPIKE last night! I am very happy, one because I actually got the right ~10% pure ammonia...yes at ACE Hardware!, and everything else went well- in only 11 days! isn't that cool or what!

Sorry if it sound like am bergen (mmmm...not sure that is the correct spell) but its just than its soo cool and that I actually made it... I think.! :?

Well, actually I have a question... the pH its at a high 8.2, will it decrease to a more suitable 7.2-7.8 range after the cycle is completed and a PWC done??? and for a 29 gal, how much water should I remove right after the cycle is done?? I am following a posting that was found here about cycling, but it doesn't say what % of water should be removed...

Thank you in advance... and I'm happy, my fishes will be moving to their new BIGGER home MANSION very soon! :roll:

rich311k 03-21-2006 10:21 AM

Since you are doing a fishless change about 80% precent of your water when the ammonia and nitrite both go to zero in 24 hours. Your PH should come back down after the water change.

malkore 03-21-2006 10:23 AM

first off, expect the nitrite phase of cycling to last longer than the ammonia phase. also, now you're at a point where you only need to raise ammonia levels to 3ppm to keep the cycle going smoothly.

after the cycle, do a large water change, at least 50%, up to 75%.

AS for your pH...what's the pH of your tap water? A lot of ammonia will slightly increase pH during cycling, but not a full 1.0...maybe .2 at most.

You should really know rested tap water pH and Kh so you'll have a better understanding of yoru water chemistry.

If I recall correctly, florida water is somewhat alkaline, and will have a higher pH.

MiamiFishy 03-21-2006 01:35 PM

Thank you rich311k and malkore for your replies,

I'll keep and eye out for nitrate now, guess that means another trip to the LFS for a nitrate test kit.

I dont know where malkore got that ammonia 1.0 reading, since I didn't post one, but its actually at 2.5-4ppm since as per the instructions of a fishless cycle article found in a posting here I have been adding about 2-3ml of ammonia to the tank to keep the levels high.
Now its half of that...actually that is half of what I was putting in before... about 4-5 ml.
The pH of the tap water is 1.0ppm and the Kh is soft ( if i remember that last one right...mmm...) The buffering KM I really cant recall.
Hopefully very soon there would be some pictures of my 29 gal tank with my little friends in it!

Skyrmir 03-21-2006 03:55 PM

Umm, I think there might have been a typo in there. A ph of 1.0 might be enough to eat through the glass, and at the least would be making a rather impressive cloud of noxious smoke. 7.0 maybe?

Our water down here isn't really that hard, just has a ton of iron oxide in it. At least naturally, there's no telling what the local water treatment plant has done to it. I can cross the street and the tap water hardness goes up 3 points, and the chlorine goes away. That's just me up in Lauderdale though. Miami has larger water districts. Pretty much garunteed the tap water in the house has been treated though, too many people complain about the smell of Florida water to actually drink it.

You'll really have to test local water to see what you have. The canal water around here is about medium hardness and 7.6-7.8 ph. Most of it has some kind of contaminant or other in it from the roads, thus the often mutated fish you catch in them...

Another note, the water treatment plants go freaky with the chlorine after long power outtages (Wilma) to try and clean up the pipes when they lose pressure. Even if you don't normally have chlorine from your treatment plant, they'll add it for a few weeks. Side bonus of doing water changes with buckets too, when the storms coming a few quick scrubs and you have plenty of clean buckets of water.

Fishyfanatic 03-21-2006 05:19 PM

Malkore was referring to the change in the pH due to the cycle, not the actual pH level Miami.

I really hope that is a typo on your part and the pH isn't 1.0.

Jchillin 03-21-2006 07:17 PM

I'm sure it was a typo. You would need eye protection and gloves to handle it. :D

MiamiFishy 03-23-2006 10:16 AM

Sorry guys, yes it a type... ph is not 1.0 sorry, its around 7.8 - 8.0 from the faucet.
That is pH... 7.8 - 8.0... sorry... what a type can do..ah?!

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