Recent content by Coralreefer1

Quite contrary, ammonia spike will be evident when altering natures time period for nitrosomanas bacteria to break down ammonia to a less toxic form called nitrite. Then nitro bacter further breaks this still toxic form of nitrogen. To nitrates.

Because if you have ammonia, that means that something has died. When doing a water change you are not really doing anything to help the situation, UNLESS the dead, decaying organism is removed. Water changes will just cause spikes in the ammonia level, ultimately not doing anything valuable...

Not really!

Green Star Polyps do not require target feeding. Their health comes from their symbiotic reliance on their single called dinoflagellate, Zooxanthellae. Try placing the polyps in an are of increased water flow. This will reduce the likeliness of algae, sediment and detritus accumulating on its...

Some anemones are easier to maintain than others. Requirements are basically the same though. This means efficient filtration, moderate to intense full spectrum lighting and optimum water parameters!

Yes, that is true to an extent. Floss and sponge will remove detritus etc. however, without proper and prompt removal and cleaning of this media, nitrates and phosphates levels quickly mount up. If anything, use a filter sock and replace every few days. This is a lot more convenient and...

Use small pieces of live rock for more beneficial biological fitration. Get rid of the sponges and bioballs!

Definitely, you could grow coral frags in a glass with the right water parameters etc. literally!

It will alter the pH of your freshwater tank! Nice for an African Cichlid though! Live rock is mostly made up of coral so it contains calcium carbonate.

If your tank has completely finished cycling, fish can be added, especially some of the more hardy kind. I would be more inclined to add a hardy fish than invert at this time. I don't really understand the practicality and advice from your pet shop!

None of those corals mentioned require intense light and an 8 hour lighting photoperiod should be fine. Just keep an eye on the corals to check for supersaturation which could cause bleacing.

Check out one of the many Gobies, Blennies, Flasher and Fairy Wrasses and Cardinalfish ideally suited to your tank size!

Main thing is setting the tank up right, cycling it through completely, reading about various corals and husbandry requirements. This will enable you to make the right choice if corals are right for you. Corals and lighting go hand in hand...many corals require intense light whereas other...

They will do fine together as chemical warfare, sweeper tentacles etc. between those on that particular rock are null. The only problem could be the light issue where the larger, taller coral, algae will have best chances of producing and growing.

Algae prefer light from the red end of the spectrum. That means both macro and microalgae! Nitrates and phosphates also play a role in growth and production.