Recent content by J.Mcpeak

Home water softeners using sodium replacement are not ideal I don’t think. Ion exchange units for human consumption aren’t much better. Either of these will leave you with unbalanced water and in both cases you need to add some powder so; If you’re going to do it.....RO and maybe DI with...

Take a bucket of source water. Wait 24 hours with aeration. Then test it for GH/KH & pH. What are you using for buffering alkalinity? You may also need some calcium (reads as) GH powder. Try agitating the water? C02 will change the pH Look at pH KH co2 triangle. It’s all related.

Up the temperature for ich! I learnt that here.....no meds needed. Make sure the fish can take it! Increase oxygen, as you increase temperature. If the tank is fishless, ich will not reproduce as they need a host organism.

Is it digital? Maybe the algorithm employed by the manufacturer rounds up? Anything above .50 scales up to the next 1. More decimal places equals a greater accuracy however, it costs much more! Really, aim for the middle range for all fish concerned. That way you have leeway in both directions.

You are putting dead waste back in the tank! Ok, youre removing detritus from the tank to the filter but you are probably not removing nitrate or replenishing GH/KH. The answer to how long? Depends on stock level, tank size and number of plants etc.

Probably some type of Protozoa.

I vote fluval! Although I don’t have the C filter. Apart from one tmc reef pump..... All the filters in my fish house are fluval.

Ammonia and nitrite will take care of themselves, if the tank is not overstocked. It is possible to reduce nitrate naturally but a water change is the easiest way most of the time. Create anearobic conditions, such as a really deep sand bed or proper depth/gradedsubstrate. Create a filter...

Seachem prime will give false readings for ammonia. (When using most available test kits) It is stated by seachem in their website. Prime will bind ammonia nitrite and nitrate making the aquarium safe regardless of measured readings while in use. Pretty sure nitrogenous wastes are not heavy...

.25 ammonia in tap water would indicate chloramine being used by the water company. It is used as it is more stable in longer pipe runs than chlorine. Also, the toxicity of ammonia varies depending pH. Good advice re. Kingfisher and the division of nitrogenous waste. Assuming the source water...

Run the quarantine filter in the main tank....... Then it’s ready for emergencies or new stock as required.

Cyanobacteria. The clue is the oxygen bubbles. Most often a lush green/blue but can also be brown. Normally this is due to lack of water changes or organic build up within the tank. More water movement is certainly beneficial as it usually forms in dead spots. If you have clowns......more...

Yes. Generally speaking........ Most fish will regenerate fins. Of course under the right conditions!

Maybe the regulator got knocked?

Count the pectoral fin rays. It is most likely S.multipunctatus