Recent content by Nubster

Not sure I understand what you mean about the 3 step ladder...but a fan or two is definitely something I'd consider if it appears to need some air movement within the enclosure. There would be some venting built-in...there would be a full-length bottom and top vent below and above the doors. Not...

Correct. No water other than maybe a very small amount that drains through the substrate and into the drainage layer...so a couple gallons at most at any time.

This is a non-fish-related question...but concerning a fish tank. I just purchased a used 120 gallon tank. 48x24x24. Corner overflows and drilled bottom. I purchased the tank to build into a vivarium for poison dart frogs. My two options are...obviously one building it as a top access...

Don't torture your fish. Do fishless. It's not any quicker to do a cycle with fish so why do it? That said, you cycle as long as it takes. Usually several weeks up to 6 weeks. There's a calculator that you can use to figure out how much ammonia to add to get up to the proper ppm. You need an...

Got it set up yesterday, shrimp in today. Here is what I have so far. Needs more plants, hope to have a bunch more Narrow Leaf Java Fern next week as long as my pending trade works out. I know the sponge filters are a bit of an eyesore, but the tank is about the shrimp. Let me know whatcha think....

What kind of crayfish? Just asking because not all crayfish are predators. I have some dwarf crays in my RCS tank and they could care less about the shrimp. I feed them frozen bloodworms, tubifex worms, and shrimp pellets and also feed my shrimp veggie sticks so the crayfish have that to eat if...

I used Gray Coast in my SW. It's a dark gray, almost black sand that is for SW tanks. I had no issues with it. I also use black in my FW tanks, again, no issues. IMO, if you need to see algae and diatoms to judge whats going on in your tank, that stuff will be growing on your glass and live rock...

You want the ammonia to be around 3-5ppm. If the die off is getting you there then no need to add anything. If it's too low then you can something to bump it up. Pure ammonia would be best because you can be precise in the dosing. Otherwise, a RAW shrimp will work just fine though it might be a...

You may try Maracyn 1. The bacteria could be gram + in which case the Maracyn 2 wouldn't help. Fin rot can also be fungal in some cases so the Maracyns would not help there either, you'd need an anti-fungal. The flashing/scratching is a sign of parasites, could be ich or flukes or even velvet...

Mostly standard but with some what I would call High Grade Sakura / Low Grade Fire Red mixed in. There are also "wild" coloration neos in the tank as well. The 75g is basically going to be my cull tank and I just bought a 20L today that's going to be my breeding tank to try and breed out some...

I know the AC 30 would be good. The AC 50 does move some water but turning it down I think it would work on a 10g.

Cories are not schooling fish really but like Lynda said, groups give them security. There are a lot of fish that might not school but prefer to have groups of their own in the tank.

My first tank exploded all over the living room floor when I tried to move it and the stand broke. I was a 29g.

Crystal shrimp are hard to keep. They have pretty particular needs as far as water parameters. I also find that RCS really are not great cleaners. They look great but I don't see any reduction in algae in my tank since adding them and I have quite a few in there. It's a 75g shrimp only tank so...

Maybe splashing adds more oxygen but the bubbles add little. If you ever notice, most of the bubbles end up floating back to the top to the surface or attach to the plants. Personally I think all the bubbles floating around in the tank is an eye sore and for what little benefit you might get...