Search results

If its only 20G then that would work(I may be biased because I just don't like the BAK-PAKs - Just never got one to work right). I have heard many good posts about the Remora by AquaC. I have a bigger skimmer by them however that should do the job for ya...

IMHO - yea I would think this too much light especially with just LPS in the tank. At the height of a 55gal you really only need 125W MH. Unless you plan on going pure SPS/zoos you don't need that much light (which looks to me you want a hammer and a bubble so I'd take that as a no). Even if...

I've been running one of these for some time now. Once you get by the little quirks they are good. First off don't buy the airlifter. They just plain suck. Hook the overflow up to a PH and it will do wonders. Second I would purchase a float switch. (which I would recommend for any overflow...

I'll jump quick jump into this. Quick explanation of a closed and open loop is: Open Loop is like your overflow and return pump. In otherwords there is a gap or "open" space between the where you take the water out of the tank and put the water back in. Closed loop is where you have...

I knew there had to be a calculator online some place. Would have hated to try and give him the formula :P

If its a standard tank you can measure the L,W and H of it and look online to see what it matches. Else there is not a real simple way to calc the volume of it. If you cannot find it online I can give you a few calcs that will get you close to the actual volume of water. But some work will...

I use this on my 125gal CPR CS100 http://www.marinedepot.com/ps/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CR1515.html I use a MaxiJet900 to keep the air out of the "U-tube" http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=AS1115 For the return I use a Mag18 with a ball valve to help with restricting...

If you are truely paranoid just get a switch to cut the electric from the main pump before it overflows. I use this switch: Ultralife Float Switch You can look it up online at a store or use a LFS. This switch and an overflow that has a way to get the air out of the u-tube (or CPR) will work...

I hope all works out for ya! holler if ya need something.

Sorry about the link - thought I had the switch in my copy buffer. To connect the CPR to a PH use the venturi hole on the PH. So instead of the tube going to air pump - attach it to the venturi hole by the directional output flow. In plain English ;) - right by where the water comes out of a...

I'm gonna come outa "lurk" status to put my 2 cents in. I have run those CPR's for a few years now. I have had this happen a few times. Let me give you some pointers to the CPRs in general. *Check that the nipple on the top is still glued in place. If it is not then you will lose suction...

SquishyFish posted: I agree with you 100% on this. But as you said you acclimated them to more light. The green ones he has can turn to a brownish color quickly if they have too much light.

I've had no problems with my Arctica - there is no controller on it but the price was right. you can see what I use in my sig. I know for a fact that my size can handle a 6deg drop on my 125gal. They are quiet and easy to clean.

IMHO, I'd put the at the bottom of the tank else they will "bleach" which in mushroom terms means turn brown and not that kool green color. They are pretty tolerant to many conditions but med to low light is prefered and low flow. Hope this helps.

I have 2 peppermints and I never see them unless they get too close to the overflow and I find them in the mesh I have in there. They are primarily nocturnal. You can see their eyes glow at night with minimal light in the room. Might want to look for it then. GL

If you are not worried about the PH flux then, the only thing you might want to concider is to drop a powerhead in there just for cirulation. Else looks good to me.

nope, it helps. I have Eric's book so I'll look up the dosing info. I will play it by ear if it gets worse; then I'll dose/medicate. I am hoping it is just the result of the trauma. It did eat so that was promising. Once again, Thanks for your help! :thumb:

here's a picture of what it looks like. I might be jumping the gun here but I know nothing about coral disease. And it doesn't match anything in my current library. EDIT: picture is zoomed in a lot the total infected area is about 3/4" at most. Just for perspective.

Greetings, About 3 days ago I accidentally dropped my brain coral and it hit the Elegance coral. :( Brain was ok because it was closed up due to the move; however the Elegance is developping an area of white tissue. This is around the area the brain hit, but it "seems" to be spreading. I am...

While cleaning up/battling some brown algae I found that the back wall of my tank doesn't have enough flow to it. I also realized that my LR is ontop of my DSB. There are a few pieces that touch the bottom for support but since this is the first time I'm using a DSB, I never thought the area...

I bought mine from www.marinedepotlive.com I am happy with it so far.

NH3 spike is not because you're lights are on longer. You are going to have algae blooms while the tank matures especially with tap water. I know I use tap also. You can cut back the hours of light and it will help with the algae some. Mainly you just need to keep scarping and getting the...

Use a 10 part water to 1 part bleach solution(a weak solution doesn't have to be perfect) and wash it out. Then just get the hose out and turn it on and let the tank overflow with water for a bit. Shouldn't be too much of a problem.

dumb question but did you wash the tank out with just water or a bleach solution? I ask because reptile urine and fecies tend to stick with a tank for a long time and I would hate for you to get cycling and have an "unknown" problem.

If an oscar can get his mouth on it, it's food to him.